It’s still “knocking” but was told it’s a normal sound. All four of my rod bearings were replaced and the sound persists.
There’s a few threads on it and people with brand new cars and no miss shifts have the same sound.
I have no idea if the sound was present before or after my miss shift...
I like the sound of the Tomei the most but probably AWE track for looks and minimal drone.
As funny as this sounds now with my warranty likely cooked…I don’t want a downpipe or tune lol
Really thinking intake, exhaust, fmic, coils, wheels and a good wrap. Army green wrap on some bronze TE37s...
Yup just dropped the oil pan. The guy who worked on mine has a highly modified FK8
Was really cool to have someone who knows Type Rs working on mine. And put my mind at ease when he told me everything was good to go
ACTUALLLYYYY, no mileage stamp on the over rev because it dropped an F-Can code at six miles before I bought the car
So assuming some bitch ass district manager doesn’t see this thread, good luck proving anything :)
That being said, I’m really not worried. Prolly get an exhaust this summer...
No, not that the techs could see. They said other than the one bearing, car was fine. Crank was a little cloudy but that’s to be expected after something like this
And yes, all out of pocket. Was about $1300
It’s was an extremely small indentation, the kind that can only really be seen in certain lighting as you rotate the bearing.
I have a video but it’s almost impossible to see and I’d have to figure out how to download said video from the dealer website
Really, really appreciate everyone’s input. As it turns out, we were all correct in some way.
The knocking came from cylinder four’s rod bearing. Cylinder 4 took the lions share of the impact and there was an extremely slight indentation in the rod bearing.
Cylinders 1-3 are fine, crank...
Oh you’re good man lol
Here’s the video I used to set it up, you can kinda just scrub to the important parts. And yeah J_D is right, cannot clear over rev.
Used an Autel AP200, ordered off Amazon.
Downloaded the app, there’s a couple you need, then it just plugs into the OBD2 and it’s all automated through the apps
Wanted to ask you about compression/leak down test. It’s getting both next week, if it comes back good, am I 100% in the clear?
I’ve heard one off stories of bent rods that weren’t bent enough to throw codes or fail compression tests. I suppose if it’s not bent enough to throw codes or fail...
I don’t think you’re being rude. It’ll go in next week for an oil change and compression/leak down.
As the thread went on and I was driving around, put about 100miles on, I started to question that “knock” because several other threads who didn’t money shift have the same sound. That and the...
Funny youd mention VWs lol I was thinking today about the time I did this exact same thing in my MKIV GTI. It was my first manual car and I was at the top of third and hit second(seems to be a trend) Car was fine lol
I know valve float can occur at higher RPM on the Type R, can’t remember what...
I thought the knock in the second video was bad too but check out the link to the other thread I posted.
It’s the same sound. I’ve also seen it on FK8s and there are a few other threads about it.
Here’s the FK8 making the same noise. It’s interesting because they’re all at the same RPM and...
Update:
Been driving it all night. Boosts fine, pulls hard all the through power band, again no CEL, and the knocking noise is something I’ve seen all over.
Starting to think I’m fine. I’ll likely have a compression test done when the oil gets changed.
Which video makes you say that? Inside or out?
There’s a thread on the inside noise and mine sounds exactly like that. Can only hear it on a warm start. Cold you don’t hear anything