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Fit looks good, thanks for sharing!

When in motion during normal driving, my IATs are around 20 degrees F higher than ambient.

I ordered a single tire from a local dealer when I ate a screw at 1000ish miles. Was significantly cheaper than online as found in this thread. I thought it was a mistake, but the correct tire showed up the next day, so I didn't complain. The DT1 OE spec might have a shallower tread depth like...

I wouldn't go with any of the big name stuff from Amazon or eBay. Aurios looks to be pretty good for what you can get without any dealer hookups.

Bolt on flanges! Hopefully it doesn't drone like it does on the FK8 and other platforms

Fairly low chance of lead dust if you’re not grinding lead to shape. There’s off the shelf product too, but it’s expensive https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/product/resonix-barrier-moldable-noise-barrier-mlv-replacement/

That's a commitment for sure! If you're going to 11, I'd also look into getting the windshield replaced with one of the acoustic ones from the other Civic trims. I'm not sure if this car has double pane glass in any markets, but that could be another path forward as well. As far as MLV goes...

I’m using this one https://apps.apple.com/app/id1245046029

Quick analysis of what sound levels are like in the car: The left image shows what my phone captured while sitting on the charger without a case. I was going 70 on a medium coarse highway in 6th with cruise control. This is the loudest highway I can think of nearby that doesn't have potholes or...

Not sure on that one. I only removed the rear half of the front fender liner. It was enough to bend the liner, apply CLD to the liner and fender, and glue some Thinsulate. When I buttoned things back up, I stuffed some more thinsulate in the wheel well from the small opening when the hood is up.

I used the split end pry tools like the bottom one. Slip the two little prongs under the middle circle and it pops right out. Single tooth pry tools and screwdrivers tend to put uneven force on the plastic clip heads and break them. You can get replacement clips for pretty cheap like these...

Here's what the rear wheel well looks like without the liner. I had the car jacked up enough to unload the rear springs and get more working space. I used 1.25sqft total. 5 squares of a quarter sqft each. One piece was adhered to the inside of the top inner portion of the fender. The black...

Can't speak for @johnloov but I plan on having a conclusion post and what I subjectively feel was most effective in a few days. Hope some of this work translates to helping out your brother! For some research, https://resonixsoundsolutions.com and diymobileaudio.com are good sources of quality...

That's a lot of product! Hope it ends up serving your needs. You're not on the East coast, are you? It would be fun to compare our cars - relatively low amount of Chonky CLD with loads of thinsulate vs expansive coverage CLD with loads of foam. I did the rear wheel wells today but don't feel...

For what it’s worth, roughly 20sqft of CLD with 50+ sqft of Thinsulate really cuts down on the higher frequency road and wind noise. I still hear road imperfections and have the MP4S resonance at certain speeds, but I’m now much more comfortable in my car. My kids don’t complain and don’t have...

That's unfortunate. Lowering undesired sound levels (tires, wind) isn't the same as covering them up with louder exhausts or music. Some people don't care. Are you willing to change the tires? Something like the AS4's are somewhat high performance with less noise.

You could seal the holes, but I'm not sure it would matter either way. There aren't any speakers inside to make an infinite baffle setup. Some people go hardcore and use a chemically curing acoustic foam inside the voids, but that's for competition vehicles. Just don't cover any access holes...

Looks like you got it, but for anybody else wondering, I took off the rear seat side trim at the C pillar, similar to what you'd remove for changing the ADS module. I then removed the plastic trim around the hatch latch. On the silver floor mounted mounting rings you can pry the plastic at the...

Finished a large chunk of what I wanted to do. Got everything treated and finally got some rudimentary measurements. The rear doors went about the same as the front. These had a fiber/plastic barrier which was more like other vehicles instead of the neoprene layer in the front. The outer door...

I’d leave it. You still have the two forward clips and some friction from the seatbacks holding the bottom down.