2024 REVWORX FL5 Type R Build

[kin0kin]

You made your own wheels?!

Yes sir

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[TchnoZ33]

Yes sir

You definitely own your own shop? Lol. This is pretty cool. I’m jealous . Also, what are all the red strips around the outside of the car? Why did you end up taking apart all of the inside? Lastly, are you in Chicago .

 

[kin0kin]

You definitely own your own shop? Lol. This is pretty cool. I’m jealous . Also, what are all the red strips around the outside of the car? Why did you end up taking apart all of the inside? Lastly, are you in Chicago .

Actually custom rims isn’t anything new but the forging process is not exactly the same as with say - Rays. The block is still compressed to over 10-12k tonne before being shaved to the shape you want. You can have it in any design and brake clearance you want.

Those red lines are masking tape. Car is in my friend’s shop doing ppf. I had to strip off the interior to get the wires to route properly. The whole center console also needed to come out to access the shifter. I still need to get wiring and piping done for the air cups. Which they still do not have stock for the size I needed.

Will be stripping the engine bay soon. I’m from out of the states tho.

 

[Imped]

Lastly, are you in Chicago .

Location: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

 

[kin0kin]

Recaro Podiums

Podiums arrived. I had in mind that I ordered red alcantara but received them in black. Probably have to order some red pads later on.

I am well aware that these seats have driver and passenger shells where it’s determined by the FIA stickers location, I was still shipped with two driver shells but with separate driver and passenger paddings. You will notice that the recaro emblem on the shoulder pads are driver and passenger specific. However the FIA stickers are both on the left of the seats. This might trigger some ocd peeps considering the price of these seats aren’t exactly cheap.

Finally gotten around doing the chairs. Two parts need to be transferred, belt buckle, and weight sensor.

Getting the buckle out is rather self explanatory. Trace the wire and unclip the cable holders from the seat and remove the buckle.

the weight sensor is held with multiple clips. I first dislodged the upper clips. Then lift the lower left clip and slide the metal retainer upwards to dislodge the left side. Following the right side.

Once dislodged it will be in between the seat and the bottom frame. Depress the foam in then slide the sensor out from the right. You’d need some helping hands.

Recaro actually made a hole to route the harness under the chair.

the clips on the sides protrude too much. I managed to bend and snap off the two tiny hooks but the bigger piece needed to be cut off. Now it’s one flat piece.

There are a few clips that still protrude out from the button cover so I added some foam tape to level it out. Then I applied VHB double sided tape to affix the sensor to the chair base.

The sensor may seem thick but it cannot be felt when sitting on it.

Taped the wire loom to prevent rattles.

Here’s how I routed the buckle’s wire.

And this is the weight sensor. What’s funny is that after all that, I realized that I could have just taped the sensor under the chair and never have to deal with the seal belt reminder and error code. Also for the price of this chair I’d thought that Recaro would provide the air bag canceller.

One down. Another one to go tomorrow.

For slider, base, bracket I’m using the PCi kit. It won’t go any lower or higher than this. I probably have to fine tune the height with washers.

 

[TW00Si]

Damn, beautiful seats.

I imagine you save around 20lbs each side without the sliders.

 

[FreshFL5]

Awesome write ups so far. Following!

 

[kin0kin]

Rattle Fix #2 - Headunit/Dashboard

there’s some serious rattle around here. Gonna have to whip out the foam and felt tapes to tackle this.

Update: I’ve eliminated the rattle

Remove the four screws/bolts holding the Headunit. Undo the two connectors behind the Headunit and lift the Headunit up vertically. It’s held by three plastic clips.

Next remove this module. It’s held by two screws. You don’t want to drop them.

Slide some foam in between the AC duct and the dashboard frame. You can get foams from upholstery shop. Ignore the masking tape. I used them to hold down the clips when I was checking for rattles.

Sandwich a foam under the module that was remove earlier then reinstall it.

fold another piece of foam in half and shove it into the cavity between the module and the upper dashboard with a trim removal tool.

here’s how it looks like after you are done padding the parts. Ignore the microfiber sponge I just left it in there to troubleshoot possible rattles from the harness.

Close the speaker cover and you are done. Actually after closing the cover I noticed that the cover is in contact with the back of the head unit. You might want to pad the contact points as well. For the time being I’m not hearing anymore rattles so I won’t be opening it again to do this step

here’s how inside of the dashboard looks like. There are a few felt taped contact points where the module attaches to the dashboard.

 

[kin0kin]

Stripping the Engine Bay

The bumper came off easily without needing to pry any clips as per some videos.

drained the coolant and oil

Out the plastic, in the sealed single piece tank!

replaced the thermostat with a 68c one.

Removed the mhi turbo and swapped it to 27Won Kuro (non plus). Heat is serious issue here, wrapped em up with some PTP Turbo blanket. Fitting is nice on these blankets but some wire splinters sure did some damage.

PRL titanium inlet next

A very familiar engine bay. DEI gold tapes otw.

 

[kin0kin]

RMM in today

Heard good things about PRL RMM. If it ain’t sufficient I’d try the stiffer ones from Hasport.

Battle Bee Oil Cooler

oil cooler is quite a pain to install. Routing the piping is troublesome. Battlebee stuff is very well made imho. Shame that it isn’t widely available in NA yet.

Will have this secured tomorrow. This bracket is interfering with my trans cooler that’s sitting on the other side so it’s gotta be cut off.

The cooler came with O Rings to aid in flexibility but it lifted the whole setup a fraction too high.

I’ve decided to remove the O rings and epoxy down the rad to the bracket for extra reinforcement and to prevent possible rattles.

The trans cooler sits on the adjacent side.

Cut off the bracket a little for it to slide into the same mounting holes as the oil cooler. I still have to adjust/fabricate the remaining brackets to get this mounted.

One of the tubings was too long so I had to trim it off a little. It’s a piece of a cake getting the compression an fitting on if you had a clean cut. Otherwise get ready to bleed.

Looping in the hose before re-terminating it.

Managed to fit everything in without touching anything.

It gets pretty close to the belt but I’ve zip tied down the hoses up top. They ain’t going anywhere.

In case anybody is thinking that this will likely kill the airflow to my PWR Rad. Well without a doubt it’s going to block some airflow. However the oil cooler wouldn’t active until the oil hits over 90+C. I might change to a higher temp thermostat so that it only opens up on over 100C. The Trans cooler probably isn’t going to pass on too much heat either. Due to the planning of this setup I went with the street version of this radiator. If it was the track version it’s probably going to heat soak on normal drive.


LCA Bushings and Anti-Lift Kit

The LCA is really difficult to get off so we dropped the whole cross member

Ever heard that if you went to a Chinese restaurant and if it’s too clean it’s probably no good. Could say the same about a machine shop

Pumped the LCA bushings out. Goodness the Powerflex 90a bushings are really stiff. The LCA is almost like a single piece now.

XDI HPFP + ID-F750

tomorrow I will machine out a bracket to mount my OCC, ID-F750, and the AEM Solenoid

I masked off the whole firewall mounting holes. I’ll be making a mockup plate on an acrylic panel and see what are some of the best places to get everything mounted securely.

Laser cut out an acrylic panel to mock up mounting location.

If you run pracworks intake manifold you can’t put the id-f750 on the left of the fuel line exit. I’m most likely putting it on the right and the reason being there’s simply not enough room behind the manifold. Engine vibration will likely hit and damage the filter.

Converted to AN6 fitting.

Mocked up with acrylic on where the filter will be mounted.

Drawn out the plate, still got to print the mockup again to test fit this.

Final measurement of the bracket is done. Pending CNC next two days.

bracket is done and fits perfectly

The oem bracket for the fuel line isn’t needed. But I might modify it further to fit the bracket.

The BattleBee trans cooler isn’t a direct fit so I had to draw out another bracket to flip it to the other side and extend it a little to mount the trans cooler.

The ID-F750 has AN10 threads. Make sure to grab a pair of AN10 to AN6 adapters.

I’ve modified and cut out all that I needed. My machinist about seeing the material told me that the OG brackets were actually aluminum. I’ve cut them out in 5mm mold steel. It was really heavy and I decided to re do them on aluminum. The plates will be done tomorrow and I’ll send them to get powder coated.

If anything I really enjoy drawing 3D models

Vacuum Hose

It’s really sad that I couldn’t find proper vacuum hoses here where I live. I ended up ordering some gates 11/32 vacuum hose to reroute my brake boost hose and intake manifold hose. I’m not convinced by the included hoses from Praworks.

 

[Zero7]

Wow

 

[kin0kin]

Water Injection
After much consideration I decided to use the AEM kit to just do water injection. I’ll tap into the washer reservoir instead of hooking up a tank in the rear.

My intention is to mount the pump on the subframe front brace. Which is nothing more than a filmy sheet metal. I have ordered the cusco brace and will weld a mounting plate onto the brace later on.

The hose is routed to the engine bay following the rad harness.

Fluid Going In

Full flushed with PWR Rad, PRL expanded coolant tank, consumed 2 big bottles of VP Racing Stay Frosty.

6 Liters of Motul 300V went in

Transmission with my Battlebee Transcooler consumed about 3 liters of Motul Gear 300 FF-LSD.

The oil cooler came with two npt ports that I forgot to wrap and seal with teflon tape. Engine oil was leaking out from here unfortunately.

 

[nodnarb901]

Rattle Fix #2 - Headunit/Dashboard

there’s some serious rattle around here. Gonna have to whip out the foam and felt tapes to tackle this.

Update: I’ve eliminated the rattle

Remove the four screws/bolts holding the Headunit. Undo the two connectors behind the Headunit and lift the Headunit up vertically. It’s held by three plastic clips.

Next remove this module. It’s held by two screws. You don’t want to drop them.

Slide some foam in between the AC duct and the dashboard frame. You can get foams from upholstery shop. Ignore the masking tape. I used them to hold down the clips when I was checking for rattles.

Sandwich a foam under the module that was remove earlier then reinstall it.

fold another piece of foam in half and shove it into the cavity between the module and the upper dashboard with a trim removal tool.

here’s how it looks like after you are done padding the parts. Ignore the microfiber sponge I just left it in there to troubleshoot possible rattles from the harness.

Close the speaker cover and you are done. Actually after closing the cover I noticed that the cover is in contact with the back of the head unit. You might want to pad the contact points as well. For the time being I’m not hearing anymore rattles so I won’t be opening it again to do this step

here’s how inside of the dashboard looks like. There are a few felt taped contact points where the module attaches to the dashboard.

I wanted to say thank you for posting this. I’ve been hunting down this same buzzing/rattle for months. Repeated your steps and fixed it! Thank you.

 

[kin0kin]

I wanted to say thank you for posting this. I’ve been hunting down this same buzzing/rattle for months. Repeated your steps and fixed it! Thank you.

The belt height adjuster rattle is also real. I’ll tackle that next when I reassemble the interior.

Glad to have helped!

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