ECT2 reading only 5-10 degrees below ECT1

Shankmeyster

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Don't know what's going on with this. Factory tune and KTuner is showing this every time I drive, once I am going at constant speeds. Do I need to replace the thermostat or check the radiator/fan? I installed the PRL intercooler and the 27WON intake scoop so that may have made a difference in airflow to the radiator but I wouldn't expect that little of a difference between the 2 as there used to be a nice temp separation at speed.
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Give or take, ECT 1 should read around 180- 200° f, while ECT 2 should read around 170- 190°, seems normal to be off 10 degrees or so. Probably doesn't help that you're in AZ and its hot AF.

As long as you're not overheating, it seems fine. You can always adjust the KTuner for the radiator fans to turn on at a lower temperature, I've usually set mine to turn on 10 degrees cooler. An aftermarket thermostat can also help as some open up 10 - 15 degrees lower than the OEM thermostat.
 
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Shankmeyster

Shankmeyster

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Sounds good. Just didn't know if I needed to worry since the "cool" side was not too much lower than the inlet side.
 

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Don't know what's going on with this. Factory tune and KTuner is showing this every time I drive, once I am going at constant speeds. Do I need to replace the thermostat or check the radiator/fan? I installed the PRL intercooler and the 27WON intake scoop so that may have made a difference in airflow to the radiator but I wouldn't expect that little of a difference between the 2 as there used to be a nice temp separation at speed.
The PRL intercooler and 27won scoop actually play a huge role in ECT's. The bar and plate design blocks a lot of the needed airflow, and the scoop only makes it worse. I'd recommend to lose the scoop, and check out the PRL or Gruppe M intake since they have a dual intake source instead of just the single source like the factory box. I managed to overheat my completely stock car on track with just a PRL intercooler installed, and Gridzilla also has a video where he tried the 27won scoop on track, and immediately took it off afterwards.
 

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Don't know what's going on with this. Factory tune and KTuner is showing this every time I drive, once I am going at constant speeds. Do I need to replace the thermostat or check the radiator/fan? I installed the PRL intercooler and the 27WON intake scoop so that may have made a difference in airflow to the radiator but I wouldn't expect that little of a difference between the 2 as there used to be a nice temp separation at speed.
That's normal when the thermostat is completely opened. Well designed cooling systems have a small temp difference and low average core temp. When you see larger separation, it usually means the thermostat is partially closed because ECT1 is already low enough.
 


chopsuey34

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The PRL intercooler and 27won scoop actually play a huge role in ECT's. The bar and plate design blocks a lot of the needed airflow, and the scoop only makes it worse. I'd recommend to lose the scoop, and check out the PRL or Gruppe M intake since they have a dual intake source instead of just the single source like the factory box. I managed to overheat my completely stock car on track with just a PRL intercooler installed, and Gridzilla also has a video where he tried the 27won scoop on track, and immediately took it off afterwards.
Hmm, good take. I'm really wondering if an aftermarket intercooler is necessary. Hondata said that Honda's racing reverted back to stock because throttle response worsened. Now the intercooler is blocking the radiator and in your case, you overheated on track with it. Would you recommend the PRL intercooler for street driving?
 

PointByPatrol

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Hmm, good take. I'm really wondering if an aftermarket intercooler is necessary. Hondata said that Honda's racing reverted back to stock because throttle response worsened. Now the intercooler is blocking the radiator and in your case, you overheated on track with it. Would you recommend the PRL intercooler for street driving?
The PRL intercooler will work fine for street driving.

This next part is my opinion:

We all love our cars, and those of us that want to race them want the highest quality parts that provide the best performance solutions (that could mean power, it could mean cooling efficiency etc). Some of us just want to mod our cars for street. Some mod on a budget and others have deeper pockets, but at the end of the day we all really want the same thing....parts that are an IMPROVEMENT over factory components. I am personally waiting for an intercooler that uses R-fin technology so that I can have the best of both worlds (cooler charged air AND a radiator that is supplied with an adequate amount of air). There is an R-fin currently available, but it blocks the entire radiator face, and in my opinion that isn't a good solution. I am aware of a few other companies that are currently in testing phases for R-fin intercoolers that are the same size as the PRL unit, and will wait for their offerings.
 

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It really depends on the driving condition. ECT2 will climb very quickly and come very close to ECT1 in stop start traffic/low air flow situations at which point the fan will kick in to control ECT2.
ECT2 should drop quite quickly once travelling above 80kph/50mph and sufficient air flow is achieved.
Below is a capture of the delta during a 80kph cruise, do be advised that these are metric system numbers.

11th Gen Honda Civic ECT2 reading only 5-10 degrees below ECT1 Screenshot_20240812_172716_Hondata
 

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It really depends on the driving condition. ECT2 will climb very quickly and come very close to ECT1 in stop start traffic/low air flow situations at which point the fan will kick in to control ECT2.
ECT2 should drop quite quickly once travelling above 80kph/50mph and sufficient air flow is achieved.
Below is a capture of the delta during a 80kph cruise, do be advised that these are metric system numbers.

Screenshot_20240812_172716_Hondata.jpg
Great stuff @terrance đź‘Ť
 
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Shankmeyster

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As you would expect ECT2 should be decently low at speed, but at freeway speeds, the issue is what I mentioned. Strange as it doesn't seem to be much of an issue at normal road speeds. Think I'll just remove the 27WON scoop and see if that solves it.
 


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@Jester04 just reading about the 27Won "scoop"/intake snorkel I bought. Looks like they aren't recommending putting it on. What are your thoughts?
 
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I removed mine and put the stock ducting back in. Guess I'm staying away from that stuff from now on.
 

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@Jester04 just reading about the 27Won "scoop"/intake snorkel I bought. Looks like they aren't recommending putting it on. What are your thoughts?
You are not tracking your car, so it will all be good. The main concerns are maximum airflow to the radiator at hot ambient temps at the track.
 

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You are not tracking your car, so it will all be good. The main concerns are maximum airflow to the radiator at hot ambient temps at the track.
Ahhhh, so it is ideal for my daily and will help keep the temps lower for highway pulls and not prolonged track runs. Got it
 

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Ahhhh, so it is ideal for my daily and will help keep the temps lower for highway pulls and not prolonged track runs. Got it
Yes that is why I recommended it for you. For the track an Ideal setup would be a larger scoop that barely creeps out more but does not obstruct airflow.
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