FL5 Front Camber (Strut Pin Removal)

tezzasaurusrex

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Just sharing some data points on the front camber of our FL5's.
With the strut pin removed (use some 13mm ID washers and the adjacent strut top nut) you can achieve an extra - 0.3° of camber.
This brings the front camber to around - 1.8° (my driveway is on a 0.1° slant).
To compensate for the toe-in that pushing in the top of the strut induces: it's just shy of 1/4 turn in on the tie rods to get the front end to zero out the toe as per the spec. Note: this is only true for vehicles on stock ride height, the toe curve is negative upon bump so please do your own measurements for your specific car.
For reference the camber settings in the book is -1.5° +- 0.5°

I'll just add that if you're not experienced in suspension work I'll advise you take your car to an expert for any of this work to be done. But now at least you know what's possible with the standard hardware. ✅

11th Gen Honda Civic FL5 Front Camber (Strut Pin Removal) 20230405_221111


11th Gen Honda Civic FL5 Front Camber (Strut Pin Removal) 20230405_203338


11th Gen Honda Civic FL5 Front Camber (Strut Pin Removal) 20230405_210455


11th Gen Honda Civic FL5 Front Camber (Strut Pin Removal) 20230405_221314
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tezzasaurusrex

tezzasaurusrex

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Did it make a difference in ride quality?
No change in ride quality at all. You'll find camber won't affect NVH or ride. I was on -2.7 on hardrace ball joints with stock suspension and the ride was largely unaffected, the steering did become a tiny bit lighter and there was a small amount of additional torque steer. You'll quickly forget these nuances once you're on track enjoying the extra grip.
 
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tezzasaurusrex

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Just did this today. So satisfying seeing the strut bolts slide inwards after you loosen all the nuts & remove the guide pin. Surprised there aren’t many more threads on this.
Remember to have a shop set your toe though, otherwise you'll destroy your tyres very quickly.
 


TW00Si

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I was recently told that pulling the pin won’t affect the toe, only the camber. I don’t know much about suspension setup so if someone would kindly explain, it would be helpful.

What I have in mind is to remove the 3 nuts to install a strut bar and remove this pin at the same time.
 

ProjectDD

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I was recently told that pulling the pin won’t affect the toe, only the camber. I don’t know much about suspension setup so if someone would kindly explain, it would be helpful.

What I have in mind is to remove the 3 nuts to install a strut bar and remove this pin at the same time.
That is not true. You cannot adjust camber on an FL5(or most cars for that matter) without affecting toe. When you move the top of the strut inward, you will add toe in.

I would not play with the strut pins unless you plan to get an alignment. Messing up toe can be just as harmful to overall handling as the benefits gained from increasing camber.
 
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TW00Si

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I will get an alignment if it’s needed. I’m just gathering information so I know what I need. Thanks.
 

johnloov

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I will get an alignment if it’s needed. I’m just gathering information so I know what I need. Thanks.
I just pulled the pins out of my FL5, and it feels way better! A day at Laguna Seca really started to wear out the outside of the tires. The instructors recommended keeping PSI at ~36psi.

I spoke to another FL5 Type R Laguna Seca guy who has modified his suspension and has oil coolers. He said he didn't see anything in toe in after he pulled his pins while stock. I will take it to his shop and they will see how much Toe In happened.

Just pulling the pins out, I can confirm, it felt way better, and will confirm if Toe In happened.
 

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removing the pin will do nothing to camber or toe unless you adjust the bolts. So if you remove the bolts to install the strut brace and leave the pin in place nothing will change. I guess you might have to remove the pin as well to install this strut brace?

If you can remove everything not move where the bolts sit and install the brace that way you are good to go, maybe thats not possible but I see no reason why it wouldn't.
However if you gonna get an alignment anyway get the camber maxed out that will help your tires on track, its minimal though cuz you might get .3 max but why not.

As far as toe goes, changing camber will definitely change toe but since we are talking about .3 degrees of camber it might be so minimal that it does not matter. I would still get an alignment everytime I do any work to suspension though
 


TW00Si

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removing the pin will do nothing to camber or toe unless you adjust the bolts. So if you remove the bolts to install the strut brace and leave the pin in place nothing will change. I guess you might have to remove the pin as well to install this strut brace?

If you can remove everything not move where the bolts sit and install the brace that way you are good to go, maybe thats not possible but I see no reason why it wouldn't.
However if you gonna get an alignment anyway get the camber maxed out that will help your tires on track, its minimal though cuz you might get .3 max but why not.

As far as toe goes, changing camber will definitely change toe but since we are talking about .3 degrees of camber it might be so minimal that it does not matter. I would still get an alignment everytime I do any work to suspension though
I think it will be easier to remove the pin without the strut bar in the way. I was told to loosen the nuts to pull the pin. I think I’m just going to loosen the nuts, pull the pins. Then take off the nuts to put on the strut bar. Then go get an alignment.
 

johnloov

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I think it will be easier to remove the pin without the strut bar in the way. I was told to loosen the nuts to pull the pin. I think I’m just going to loosen the nuts, pull the pins. Then take off the nuts to put on the strut bar. Then go get an alignment.
To pull the pin all you have to do is take off a bolt, use two wrenches 🔧 as spacers on the pin, attach the bolt on top, screw on until pin comes out, loosen other bolts and it slides right in to .3 more negative camber, then torque those bolts to 46lbs - that’s what I’d did, took 10 min max.
 
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ender_ong

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Wunderladen Front Strut Locks Link

What are your thoughts about this product from Wunderland Racing? I like the idea that it provides some insurance from the bolts sliding around a bit after a bump (ie rumble strips/curbing on a track), but is that even a possibility with the correct torque applied?
 

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Wunderladen Front Strut Locks Link

What are your thoughts about this product from Wunderland Racing? I like the idea that it provides some insurance from the bolts sliding around a bit after a bump (ie rumble strips/curbing on a track), but is that even a possibility with the correct torque applied?
Never had an issue with camber plates on my M2 and that was 4 tiny hex bolts so I don't think the 3 large bolts on the FL5 will be sliding around if torqued to spec. Really not something I would worry about at all. Id mark the bolts and look if there was any movement after a track day (I never had an issue, bolts were alway where they were suppose to be).
 
 





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