tezzasaurusrex
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Just sharing some data points on the front camber of our FL5's.
With the strut pin removed (use some 13mm ID washers and the adjacent strut top nut) you can achieve an extra - 0.3° of camber.
This brings the front camber to around - 1.8° (my driveway is on a 0.1° slant).
To compensate for the toe-in that pushing in the top of the strut induces: it's just shy of 1/4 turn in on the tie rods to get the front end to zero out the toe as per the spec. Note: this is only true for vehicles on stock ride height, the toe curve is negative upon bump so please do your own measurements for your specific car.
For reference the camber settings in the book is -1.5° +- 0.5°
I'll just add that if you're not experienced in suspension work I'll advise you take your car to an expert for any of this work to be done. But now at least you know what's possible with the standard hardware.
With the strut pin removed (use some 13mm ID washers and the adjacent strut top nut) you can achieve an extra - 0.3° of camber.
This brings the front camber to around - 1.8° (my driveway is on a 0.1° slant).
To compensate for the toe-in that pushing in the top of the strut induces: it's just shy of 1/4 turn in on the tie rods to get the front end to zero out the toe as per the spec. Note: this is only true for vehicles on stock ride height, the toe curve is negative upon bump so please do your own measurements for your specific car.
For reference the camber settings in the book is -1.5° +- 0.5°
I'll just add that if you're not experienced in suspension work I'll advise you take your car to an expert for any of this work to be done. But now at least you know what's possible with the standard hardware.
Sponsored
Last edited: