Flashing a Hondata tune with a desktop - A guide

[gtman]

Hope this helps anyone new to flashing with the Flashpro who only has a desktop:


1. Install the software on a PC. Plug in the FlashPro, fill out the registration details and register with Hondata.

2. Take the FlashPro to the vehicle, plug it in, switch on the ignition (two presses of the start button) for 5 seconds (but don't start the car). This records the VIN.

3. Take the FlashPro back to the PC, plug it in. Select Online, Lock from the software menu.

4. Select a calibration of your choice from the list, upload to the FlashPro.

5. Go to the vehicle, plug the FlashPro in, switch on the ignition (two presses of the start button). Press the Program button on the FlashPro for over 1 second. If using the secondary slot, hold down the datalog button, then the program button and release the program button first after a second or two.

6. The program light should start to flash after about 15 seconds, then stop flashing once the ECU is programmed (about 5-6 minutes ). You will get weird error codes on the dash. This is normal and they will go away after a while.

7. After programming is done... hold down the start button to turn off ignition. Then start up engine. You are now tuned.
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For more detailed help, check out the Flashpro help guide or contact Hondata customer service. I installed using desktop. If you have a laptop this can all be done inside you car.

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[Civicster]

Hope this helps anyone new to flashing with the Flashpro who only has a desktop:


1. Install the software on a PC. Plug in the FlashPro, fill out the registration details and register with Hondata.

2. Take the FlashPro to the vehicle, plug it in, switch on the ignition (two presses of the start button) for 5 seconds (but don't start the car). This records the VIN.

3. Take the FlashPro back to the PC, plug it in. Select Online, Lock from the software menu.

4. Select a calibration of your choice from the list, upload to the FlashPro.

5. Go to the vehicle, plug the FlashPro in, switch on the ignition (two presses of the start button). Press the Program button on the FlashPro for over 1 second. If using the secondary slot, hold down the datalog button, then the program button and release the program button first after a second or two.

6. The program light should start to flash after about 15 seconds, then stop flashing once the ECU is programmed (about 5-6 minutes ). You will get weird error codes on the dash. This is normal and they will go away after a while.

7. After programming is done... hold down the start button to turn off ignition. Then start up engine. You are now tuned.
_________

For more detailed help, check out the Flashpro help guide or contact Hondata customer service. I installed using desktop. If you have a laptop this can all be done inside you car.

Question: should all the error codes completely go away when reflash is complete. The error codes were still coming up, but I unplugged FP from ECU when the program light stopped flashing and turned off. I then restarted the engine and all codes were gone. When I plugged FP back to my laptop, a pop-up came up and said download was successful. I'm wondering if I unplugged FP from the ECU too early with error codes still coming up. I noticed the gaines mainly in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears, but not noticing too much gains when going into higher RPM's in 4th, 5th and 6th gears. Wondering if I need to reflash back to stock then try it again. Any suggestions?

 

[gtman]

First of all the gains are almost all after 3500 RPM. If you're in a higher gear and going under 3500 it will feel close to stock (maybe a touch better throttle response though).

When uploading a tune, those errors show up. That's normal. If you say the errors were gone when you restarted the car, that's normal too.

Run a datalog and post it here or look at the datalog using your software. If you run full throttle and don't see something close to 19-20psi there could be a problem. Also, what octane are you running? 91 will give you noticeably more power than 87. 93 even more.

 

[Civicster]

First of all the gains are almost all after 3500 RPM. If you're in a higher gear and going under 3500 it will feel close to stock (maybe a touch better throttle response though).

When uploading a tune, those errors show up. That's normal. If you say the errors were gone when you restarted the car, that's normal too.

Run a datalog and post it here or look at the datalog using your software. If you run full throttle and don't see something close to 19-20psi there could be a problem. Also, what octane are you running? 91 will give you noticeably more power than 87. 93 even more.

I always use 93 octane. I will run a datalog and see about the psi. I expected all the error codes to come up by reading your other blog, but you also mentioned on this blog to expect error codes to come up. Then you mentioned the error codes would go away when finished with reflash. Got me thinking because I remembered that I unplugged the FP from ECU when I didn't see any light on the program button, but remember the error codes were still coming up. It never went back to normal before I unplugged from ECU. Just got me thinking if I did it correctly. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have told me download was successful when I plugged FB to my laptop right afterwards.

 

[Civicster]

Also, if I download a newer version on FP website, can I just reflash over the same + 6 with updated version or do I need to always go back to stock?

 

[Civicster]

I always use 93 octane. I will run a datalog and see about the psi. I expected all the error codes to come up by reading your other blog, but you also mentioned on this blog to expect error codes to come up. Then you mentioned the error codes would go away when finished with reflash. Got me thinking because I remembered that I unplugged the FP from ECU when I didn't see any light on the program button, but remember the error codes were still coming up. It never went back to normal before I unplugged from ECU. Just got me thinking if I did it correctly. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have told me download was successful when I plugged FB to my laptop right afterwards.

I am stating that I don't see much of a different in gaines in 4th, 5th and 6th gear when I am between 3,500 to 6,000 rpms. It almost feels the same as stock.

 

[gtman]

Also, if I download a newer version on FP website, can I just reflash over the same + 6 with updated version or do I need to always go back to stock?

You would delete the current tune and upload the revised tune in it's place. Then reflash the new tune. No need to go back to stock first. Matter of fact when you download the updated software, it will tell you your tune is from a previous version and to update it.

I am stating that I don't see much of a different in gaines in 4th, 5th and 6th gear when I am between 3,500 to 6,000 rpms. It almost feels the same as stock.

That definitely doesn't sound right. For sure do a datalog with some high RPM and WOT moves. Also and I know this probably isn't the case, make sure your Econ button isn't on.

 

[Civicster]

You would delete the current tune and upload the revised tune in it's place. Then reflash the new tune. No need to go back to stock first,. Matter of fact when you download the updated software, it will tell you your tune is from a previous version and to update it.


That definitely doesn't sound right. For sure do a datalog with some high RPM and WOT moves. Also and I know this isn't the case, make sure your Econ button isn't on.

Yeah, I for sure know the Green leaf Econ isn't on. I don't even use that button LOL. Sorry, but what is WOT stand for?

 

[Civicster]

Yea, I for sure know the Green leaf Econ isn't on. I don't even use that button LOL. Sorry, but what is WOT stand for?

Im sure I selected the right software. I selected 2016+ 1.5turbo MT - Carb/Emission - US or something like that

 

[Civicster]

Yea, I for sure know the Green leaf Econ isn't on. I don't even use that button LOL. Sorry, but what is WOT stand for?

Nevermind, just found the meaning for WOT

 

[Civicster]

Nevermind, just found the meaning for WOT

First of all the gains are almost all after 3500 RPM. If you're in a higher gear and going under 3500 it will feel close to stock (maybe a touch better throttle response though).

When uploading a tune, those errors show up. That's normal. If you say the errors were gone when you restarted the car, that's normal too.

Run a datalog and post it here or look at the datalog using your software. If you run full throttle and don't see something close to 19-20psi there could be a problem. Also, what octane are you running? 91 will give you noticeably more power than 87. 93 even more.

Okay, I reflashed with the latest updated version and seems to be more responsive now for some reason. I data logged numerous times with WOT and my car got up to 24.6 psi. Don't know what happened with the first upload, but this last upload seems to have made a difference. Now the car is running awesome.

 

[gtman]

Okay, I reflashed with the latest updated version and seems to be more responsive now for some reason. I data logged numerous times with WOT and my car got up to 24.6 psi. Don't know what happened with the first upload, but this last upload seems to have made a difference. Now the car is running awesome.

Glad you got it sorted. You saw 24.6 on the base +6? That's actually about 10+psi more than the factory tune peaks at. Whoa.

 

[Civicster]

Glad you got it sorted. You saw 24.6 on the base +6? That's actually about 10+psi more than the factory tune peaks at. Whoa.

I know right, I'm gonna have to keep logging because 24.6 seems awfully high for just +6. I did WOT and saw the level on the graph on about 6 different occasions jump up to 24.6psi

 

[Civicster]

I know right, I'm gonna have to keep logging because 24.6 seems awfully high for just +6. I did WOT and saw the level on the graph on about 6 different occasions jump up to 24.6psi

Makes me kinda wonder how accurate this datalogging is.

 

[gtman]

I'm working on a "+7.5" tune (haven't flashed it yet) and by my calculations that will peak just under 22 psi at 5500 rpm. So 24.6 is very high.

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