Gambit intake kit FL5

Gambit

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Hi all,
I’m Tony, alias GAMBIT and I would like to introduce you to my Do it Yourself (DIY) intake kit. I’ll call it “Gambit’s FL5 intake kit”. A kit meant for the home DIY’er and done at a budget.
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-mBbHMvT-XL

I have owned my FL5 since March 2023 and wanted to make my own intake kit for it since then. I also wanted to open source share with the community. In the hope that by doing so, it develops the intake further.
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-xZQ7GVt-L

I know Acuity have developed a similar intake kit for a race car and yet to release to the public. I come from the old school days when we made home made DIY intake kits from nothing more than what was laying about and available in the garage as spares.

The benefit of this DIY kit for the community is that all parts are available on ebay or universally available online. You can mix and match whatever parts you have spare such as silicon hoses, clamps and pod filters etc.

You will have to remove your windscreen reservoir bottle and go without, as the kit sits inside the front right side wheel arch, behind the front bumper. In order to run a pod filter into that area, you will have to remove the reservoir bottle and at your discretion the right side brake duct hose.
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-g5TFSqt-S

I have tested this intake kit on my FL5 and there are no Check Engine Lights (CEL) too.

The biggest benefit to running this style kit is that there is no longer an issue with high Intake Air Temps (IAT). Either on boost, at idle or cruising speed. As the heat soaking that would occur with the over turbo pipe on every other kit or factory setup is non-existent.

In fact I was chasing a reduction in IAT and had purchased an Eventuri kit and added a secondary cold air feed. (I’m yet to buy and test out the new Eventuri over turbo pipe, which comes as an addition to the intake kit they sell). But here is my Eventuri kit installed on my FL5.
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-J7ckqTw-L


Because the 'Gambit intake kit' places the pod filter in the frontal wheel arch area, I had to seal up the bottom portion of the area with plugs. As you will see in the pictures, I cut out the open protrusions in the arch liner and used a combination of rubber grommets and push plugs. You could easily tape it all up or use some sound deadening material as an alternative too.
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-gw9nFdS-L

For a cold air feed, I used a dremel to cut a slit in the front garnish trim in order to feed cold air directly to the pod. I also removed the brake duct that collects air from the front air dam hole. These are the only openings to the area for direct cold/ram forced air. On the open road I can't imagine it would be an issue for cold air access but with a dyno tuning session, every little bit of open force feed air into the pod would help.
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-8wvRkd5-L

11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-Z2WWs9H-L

11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-PDM3NLm-L



If you decide to run this kit, I'd highly advise you to not drive through flood water. Do so at your own risk!

A few notes on the Gambit intake kit parts:

  1. The 2.5” turbo compressor inlet adaptor flange I used is for a Garrett T28 turbo, the bolt to bolt distance is different. So all i did was use a hack saw and cut off the ears on the bolt holes and then had a friend open the flange diameter up to match up to the inlet compressor diameter. Hopefully someone can develop and 3D print a flange to match up, without having to do this. Like I said the aim was to source everything online myself and just make it work.
  2. The first silicon hose is a 2.5” to 3” 45 degree elbow, which routes the intake up and clears the auxiliary belt
  3. This then connects to a 3” 90 degree short leg mandrel bend cut to size. This arches the inlet downwards and towards the next silicon hose
  4. The next silicon hose is for an R32 skyline. I chose this hose because it had two holes to connect the two Emission hose lines and it was also cheap. I would recommend a PRL or equivalent silicon hose with the two holes. I had to cut this silicon hose down by about 30mm
  5. I used the MAF housing and Pod filter with velocity stack from the ProRam FL5 intake kit I had previously installed when it was first released. However, have linked to alternative substitution for the MAF housing. Using another MAF housing, make sure you measure the length of the silicon hose and cut it down accordingly.
  6. Next up is the 3” 90 degree silicon hose
  7. Which finally connects up to the ProRam 76mm velocity stack which attaches to the ProRam pod filter
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-8G7kkDz-L

The only other accessories needed are:
  1. 70-90mm hose clamps for each connection point on the inlet
  2. 10-20mm hose clamps for the EVAP lines.
  3. 10mm Inner Diameter (ID) silicon hoses x 2 and the most important and connector barbs
  4. MAF sensor extension lead. This lead can be sourced from Aliexpress with a link listed and you can make the lead yourself. You just need some wires and the length of the lead should be 110mm. If you're not up to it, just ask your local auto electrician to help you out.
  5. I purchased a spare OE front intake dam, to cut up as an intake feed. Totally up to you whether you're happy to cut your garnish up or cut a spare up. They are cheap enough from Honda.
  6. I removed my front brake duct in order to get a secondary cold air feed into the area where the pod sits. Thereby increasing the frontal area cm2 for cold air to be force feed into the pod, creating a ram effect. I believe with these twin openings of both the front garnish and the brake duct hole, the setup will be able to make good power on road and dyno.
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-97hC6Qn-L



Anyhow here is a list below of all the parts, with description, what i paid and a link to the ebay item number. Substitute with what you can get locally. I'd be keen to see how creative you get with prices or parts.
DescriptionCost AUDCost USD conversion~Link
Turbo Compressor Inlet Adapter Flange 2.5" Garrett For Nissan GT25 GT28 T25 T2862$40.29https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/173524204236
Silicon 2.5" to 3" ID 45 deg elbow reducer35$22.75https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200516139919
Silicon/Silicone (3/8 Inch / 10mm ID) Vacuum Hose Tubing - Black 1 Meter x230$19.50https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200961925185
Silicon 90 deg 3" elbow19$12.35https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/265601287649
Pro Ram filter with 76mm velocity stack 150$97.50https://ramairusa.com/proram-medium-cone-air-filter-with-76mm-od-neck-velocity-stack/
3" 76MM Aluminum Air Flow Sensor Mount Adapter For Nissan Honda Civic Ford MAF23$14.83https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/334516448133
3" Silicone Turbo Intake Inlet Hose Induction Pipe for Skyline GTS-T R32 RB20DET100$65.00https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/225726585933
MAF sensor extension lead or make your own from AliExpress with a 5/20/50 Sets 4 Pin Way Sumitomo TS MAF Sensor Connector Waterproof Air Flow Meter Female Socket Plug for Toyota 6189-740125$16.25https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004688789635.html
OE front intake dam trim65$42.25Honda OE part number for RH side Front Garnish trim 71141T60J00
3" INCH 76.2mm 90 Degree Short Leg Mandrel Bend 304 Stainless Steel Exhaust Pipe40$26.00https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/254737567860
4x 10-20mm hose clamps
6x 70-90mm hose clamps
1x 25mm barbed elbow x15mm bsp male
1x 15mm bsp female to 13mm barb
1x 13mm bsp barbed elbow to 13mm barb
Total in Australian dollars549$356.72
0.65AUD/USD rate as at 05/01/24


Here are some further pictures of the 'Gambit intake kit'

The turbo inlet compressor flange as delivered:
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-q6w5WRg-L

The turbo inlet compressor flange after the ears have been removed and also opened up to a larger diameter:
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-Xftg7wt-L

Installed in the turbo:
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-NhshCNG-L


The length of the MAF extension lead needs to be 43" long in order for the lead to run along the back and along the firewall and not across the turbo.
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-nhcSB89-L

11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-MbcqcXT-L


The length of the Emission silicon hoses need to be 30" long to reach the new location:
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-Xftg7wt-L


The #1 silicon hose from the inlet compressor flange points upwards:
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-qGVcPjk-L


There is also plenty of clearance between the #1 silicon hose and the auxiliary belt:
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-NF37nSV-L


Emission hose line clearance when installed:
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-vmNnT7f-L

How the emission hose line is secured and connected:
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-xMwfvMt-L


A close up of the clearance over the top of the 3" mandrel bend:
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-6dvDGPm-L


Installation only required you to remove the right hand side front arch liner, as you can see this is where the pod sits:
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-FkdGv7v-L


In front of the pod and where i have cut the front garnish open you can see where cold air would be directed:
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-W4dVDG5-L

How the pod would be located and its orientation inside the front wheel arch liner:
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-fQnzWHP-L


And finally the Gambit intake kit, fully installed:
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-6Q6S7cf-L


Overall impressions:
I can only compare it to the Eventuri intake kit and because in Australia we are Right Hand Drive, i can hear the turbo and intake sounds much more clearly, whilst the Eventuri intake is muted. (btw: the Eventuri kit is the best finished kit out there in terms of carbon fibre beauty, hats off to them for setting the bench mark in terms of a quality product)

Having said that the biggest difference is the Intake Air Temps (IAT). They are at a 50% less delta vs stock intake at (ambient temp vs IAT) across idle/stationary, cruising and on boost. The biggest difference was the speed of recovery/Intake air temp drop from sitting at a set of lights idling and then cruising to full boost/wide open throttle pulls, then back to idling. For the cost, i dont think there is a better solution to tackle the wicked problem of the turbo inlet overpipe running across the actual turbo itself.

Next steps is to send this first prototype 'Gambit intake kit' off for an independent evaluation against other intake kits in the market. I really do hope they also add a variable for comparison that includes price point, because bang for buck this kit is the best.

I also hope this concept gets developed and taken further across the FL5 community and people come up with smarter, cost effective alternatives to mix and match parts to make the best 'Gambit intake kits' out there.

Please share and open source this..

GAMBIT
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Jester04

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Hi all,
I’m Tony, alias GAMBIT and I would like to introduce you to my Do it Yourself (DIY) intake kit. I’ll call it “Gambit’s FL5 intake kit”. A kit meant for the home DIY’er and done at a budget.
i-mBbHMvT-XL.jpg

I have owned my FL5 since March 2023 and wanted to make my own intake kit for it since then. I also wanted to open source share with the community. In the hope that by doing so, it develops the intake further.
i-xZQ7GVt-L.jpg

I know Acuity have developed a similar intake kit for a race car and yet to release to the public. I come from the old school days when we made home made DIY intake kits from nothing more than what was laying about and available in the garage as spares.

The benefit of this DIY kit for the community is that all parts are available on ebay or universally available online. You can mix and match whatever parts you have spare such as silicon hoses, clamps and pod filters etc.

You will have to remove your windscreen reservoir bottle and go without, as the kit sits inside the front right side wheel arch, behind the front bumper. In order to run a pod filter into that area, you will have to remove the reservoir bottle and at your discretion the right side brake duct hose.
i-g5TFSqt-S.jpg

I have tested this intake kit on my FL5 and there are no Check Engine Lights (CEL) too.

The biggest benefit to running this style kit is that there is no longer an issue with high Intake Air Temps (IAT). Either on boost, at idle or cruising speed. As the heat soaking that would occur with the over turbo pipe on every other kit or factory setup is non-existent.

In fact I was chasing a reduction in IAT and had purchased an Eventuri kit and added a secondary cold air feed. (I’m yet to buy and test out the new Eventuri over turbo pipe, which comes as an addition to the intake kit they sell). But here is my Eventuri kit installed on my FL5.
i-J7ckqTw-L.jpg


Because the 'Gambit intake kit' places the pod filter in the frontal wheel arch area, I had to seal up the bottom portion of the area with plugs. As you will see in the pictures, I cut out the open protrusions in the arch liner and used a combination of rubber grommets and push plugs. You could easily tape it all up or use some sound deadening material as an alternative too.
i-gw9nFdS-L.jpg

For a cold air feed, I used a dremel to cut a slit in the front garnish trim in order to feed cold air directly to the pod. I also removed the brake duct that collects air from the front air dam hole. These are the only openings to the area for direct cold/ram forced air. On the open road I can't imagine it would be an issue for cold air access but with a dyno tuning session, every little bit of open force feed air into the pod would help.
i-8wvRkd5-L.jpg

i-Z2WWs9H-L.jpg

i-PDM3NLm-L.jpg



If you decide to run this kit, I'd highly advise you to not drive through flood water. Do so at your own risk!

A few notes on the Gambit intake kit parts:

  1. The 2.5” turbo compressor inlet adaptor flange I used is for a Garrett T28 turbo, the bolt to bolt distance is different. So all i did was use a hack saw and cut off the ears on the bolt holes and then had a friend open the flange diameter up to match up to the inlet compressor diameter. Hopefully someone can develop and 3D print a flange to match up, without having to do this. Like I said the aim was to source everything online myself and just make it work.
  2. The first silicon hose is a 2.5” to 3” 45 degree elbow, which routes the intake up and clears the auxiliary belt
  3. This then connects to a 3” 90 degree short leg mandrel bend cut to size. This arches the inlet downwards and towards the next silicon hose
  4. The next silicon hose is for an R32 skyline. I chose this hose because it had two holes to connect the two Emission hose lines and it was also cheap. I would recommend a PRL or equivalent silicon hose with the two holes. I had to cut this silicon hose down by about 30mm
  5. I used the MAF housing and Pod filter with velocity stack from the ProRam FL5 intake kit I had previously installed when it was first released. However, have linked to alternative substitution for the MAF housing. Using another MAF housing, make sure you measure the length of the silicon hose and cut it down accordingly.
  6. Next up is the 3” 90 degree silicon hose
  7. Which finally connects up to the ProRam 76mm velocity stack which attaches to the ProRam pod filter
i-8G7kkDz-L.jpg

The only other accessories needed are:
  1. 70-90mm hose clamps for each connection point on the inlet
  2. 10-20mm hose clamps for the EVAP lines.
  3. 10mm Inner Diameter (ID) silicon hoses x 2 and the most important and connector barbs
  4. MAF sensor extension lead. This lead can be sourced from Aliexpress with a link listed and you can make the lead yourself. You just need some wires and the length of the lead should be 110mm. If you're not up to it, just ask your local auto electrician to help you out.
  5. I purchased a spare OE front intake dam, to cut up as an intake feed. Totally up to you whether you're happy to cut your garnish up or cut a spare up. They are cheap enough from Honda.
  6. I removed my front brake duct in order to get a secondary cold air feed into the area where the pod sits. Thereby increasing the frontal area cm2 for cold air to be force feed into the pod, creating a ram effect. I believe with these twin openings of both the front garnish and the brake duct hole, the setup will be able to make good power on road and dyno.
i-97hC6Qn-L.jpg



Anyhow here is a list below of all the parts, with description, what i paid and a link to the ebay item number. Substitute with what you can get locally. I'd be keen to see how creative you get with prices or parts.
DescriptionCost AUDCost USD conversion~Link
Turbo Compressor Inlet Adapter Flange 2.5" Garrett For Nissan GT25 GT28 T25 T2862$40.29https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/173524204236
Silicon 2.5" to 3" ID 45 deg elbow reducer35$22.75https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200516139919
Silicon/Silicone (3/8 Inch / 10mm ID) Vacuum Hose Tubing - Black 1 Meter x230$19.50https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200961925185
Silicon 90 deg 3" elbow19$12.35https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/265601287649
Pro Ram filter with 76mm velocity stack150$97.50https://ramairusa.com/proram-medium-cone-air-filter-with-76mm-od-neck-velocity-stack/
3" 76MM Aluminum Air Flow Sensor Mount Adapter For Nissan Honda Civic Ford MAF23$14.83https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/334516448133
3" Silicone Turbo Intake Inlet Hose Induction Pipe for Skyline GTS-T R32 RB20DET100$65.00https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/225726585933
MAF sensor extension lead or make your own from AliExpress with a 5/20/50 Sets 4 Pin Way Sumitomo TS MAF Sensor Connector Waterproof Air Flow Meter Female Socket Plug for Toyota 6189-740125$16.25https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004688789635.html
OE front intake dam trim65$42.25Honda OE part number for RH side Front Garnish trim 71141T60J00
3" INCH 76.2mm 90 Degree Short Leg Mandrel Bend 304 Stainless Steel Exhaust Pipe40$26.00https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/254737567860
4x 10-20mm hose clamps
6x 70-90mm hose clamps
1x 25mm barbed elbow x15mm bsp male
1x 15mm bsp female to 13mm barb
1x 13mm bsp barbed elbow to 13mm barb
Total in Australian dollars549$356.72
0.65AUD/USD rate as at 05/01/24


Here are some further pictures of the 'Gambit intake kit'

The turbo inlet compressor flange as delivered:
i-q6w5WRg-L.jpg

The turbo inlet compressor flange after the ears have been removed and also opened up to a larger diameter:
i-Xftg7wt-L.jpg

Installed in the turbo:
i-NhshCNG-L.jpg


The length of the MAF extension lead needs to be 43" long in order for the lead to run along the back and along the firewall and not across the turbo.
i-nhcSB89-L.jpg

i-MbcqcXT-L.jpg


The length of the Emission silicon hoses need to be 30" long to reach the new location:
i-Xftg7wt-L.jpg


The #1 silicon hose from the inlet compressor flange points upwards:
i-qGVcPjk-L.jpg


There is also plenty of clearance between the #1 silicon hose and the auxiliary belt:
i-NF37nSV-L.jpg


Emission hose line clearance when installed:
i-vmNnT7f-L.jpg

How the emission hose line is secured and connected:
i-xMwfvMt-L.jpg


A close up of the clearance over the top of the 3" mandrel bend:
i-6dvDGPm-L.jpg


Installation only required you to remove the right hand side front arch liner, as you can see this is where the pod sits:
i-FkdGv7v-L.jpg


In front of the pod and where i have cut the front garnish open you can see where cold air would be directed:
i-W4dVDG5-L.jpg

How the pod would be located and its orientation inside the front wheel arch liner:
i-fQnzWHP-L.jpg


And finally the Gambit intake kit, fully installed:
i-6Q6S7cf-L.jpg


Overall impressions:
I can only compare it to the Eventuri intake kit and because in Australia we are Right Hand Drive, i can hear the turbo and intake sounds much more clearly, whilst the Eventuri intake is muted. (btw: the Eventuri kit is the best finished kit out there in terms of carbon fibre beauty, hats off to them for setting the bench mark in terms of a quality product)

Having said that the biggest difference is the Intake Air Temps (IAT). They are at a 50% less delta vs stock intake at (ambient temp vs IAT) across idle/stationary, cruising and on boost. The biggest difference was the speed of recovery/Intake air temp drop from sitting at a set of lights idling and then cruising to full boost/wide open throttle pulls, then back to idling. For the cost, i dont think there is a better solution to tackle the wicked problem of the turbo inlet overpipe running across the actual turbo itself.

Next steps is to send this first prototype 'Gambit intake kit' off for an independent evaluation against other intake kits in the market. I really do hope they also add a variable for comparison that includes price point, because bang for buck this kit is the best.

I also hope this concept gets developed and taken further across the FL5 community and people come up with smarter, cost effective alternatives to mix and match parts to make the best 'Gambit intake kits' out there.

Please share and open source this..

GAMBIT
Great job tackling this!
 

eriktufa

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Great job! I wonder if you will face any issue during rain season or when you come across puddle of water. It is like Cold Air Intake for Turbo car back in the days.
 

Icehawk

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Nice job. Not something I would do as fording water is a reality here as well as needing the wiper fluid reservoir.
 

Jester04

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Nice job. Not something I would do as fording water is a reality here as well as needing the wiper fluid reservoir.
I think it’s a step in the right direction, but for sure it could be improved upon to make everything work without taking anything apart.

The water issue I don’t really consider it since I would never drive my car through a deep puddle. But everybody has different weather and drainage conditions depending on where they live.
 


Noize

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I love your work and hustle, so please don’t take this as criticism. Maybe it puts a fire in your belly to develop things further.

I’m also a little older, but my formative car guy days were based in research and development. I had a friend who owned a dyno, and I spent a whole lot of time tuning many different cars on it, mostly boosted imports.

What you need is the scientific method of testing this in multiple scenarios, and that includes dyno time and tuning. IATs are a factor in so much more than the intake. You need to account for the MAF, the turbo, intercooler, tune, etc. IATs alone also don’t tell the whole picture.

The stock airbox will flow well over 500hp in many applications, and intakes these days are usually self serving bling mods for most mildly tuned cars.

Send one of these to a willing tuner who is interested and have them torture test it. Look at data and improve upon the design. Once it shows gains in multiple states of tune and the benefits outweigh the tough installation, I think you’ll have some takers on the project.

Want to find a way to make some money in this platform and/or really benefit the community? Help figure out a plan to remote jailbreak this ECU so people can tune from the comfort of home.

Good luck.
 
OP
OP

Gambit

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I love your work and hustle, so please don’t take this as criticism. Maybe it puts a fire in your belly to develop things further.

I’m also a little older, but my formative car guy days were based in research and development. I had a friend who owned a dyno, and I spent a whole lot of time tuning many different cars on it, mostly boosted imports.

What you need is the scientific method of testing this in multiple scenarios, and that includes dyno time and tuning. IATs are a factor in so much more than the intake. You need to account for the MAF, the turbo, intercooler, tune, etc. IATs alone also don’t tell the whole picture.

The stock airbox will flow well over 500hp in many applications, and intakes these days are usually self serving bling mods for most mildly tuned cars.

Send one of these to a willing tuner who is interested and have them torture test it. Look at data and improve upon the design. Once it shows gains in multiple states of tune and the benefits outweigh the tough installation, I think you’ll have some takers on the project.

Want to find a way to make some money in this platform and/or really benefit the community? Help figure out a plan to remote jailbreak this ECU so people can tune from the comfort of home.

Good luck.
Not at all, it's a welcome contribution. To be honest, i have neither the time or resources for such an endeavour. I also have no inclination to make money from this effort. However i have the kindness of heart and openness of mind to want to share among the community, to let others who have such means to search out and seek the answers one desires.
 
OP
OP

Gambit

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If anyone is interested in making their own kit and wants a MAF extension lead, happy to send you one as listed, as I can make an extra I had set aside as a backup. Just PM me.
 

egxflash

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Great job! I wonder if you will face any issue during rain season or when you come across puddle of water. It is like Cold Air Intake for Turbo car back in the days.
This happened to me on my Mazda 3. Had a CAI that was piped down to the driver fender well. I missed seeing a puddle in the parking lot while trying to make my way home in a storm and ingested water.

Fortunately I knew not to start the car back up after it died. Pulled the valve cover, new sparks, new MAF and she was back up and running. Still a PITA though and wouldn't go back to that set up anymore.
 
OP
OP

Gambit

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This happened to me on my Mazda 3. Had a CAI that was piped down to the driver fender well. I missed seeing a puddle in the parking lot while trying to make my way home in a storm and ingested water.

Fortunately I knew not to start the car back up after it died. Pulled the valve cover, new sparks, new MAF and she was back up and running. Still a PITA though and wouldn't go back to that set up anymore.
I hear your concern. To iterate on the idea. You could potentially fully seal the arch area and make the only air accessible to the area where the pod sits via the inlet the brake duct hose and seal that hose as well. Because that hose runs into the area that is water tight, on the tail end of the hose, add an exhaust valve flap and controller. Most of the time the valve is open but should you need to drive through flood water, actuate the valve and it shuts the front intake brake duct hose off from outside air/water and reverts to a secondary duct that snorkels upwards above the fender. Extreme i know, otherwise just dont drive through flood water! ;)
11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 i-nRhXvGQ-L
 


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I hear your concern. To iterate on the idea. You could potentially fully seal the arch area and make the only air accessible to the area where the pod sits via the inlet the brake duct hose and seal that hose as well. Because that hose runs into the area that is water tight, on the tail end of the hose, add an exhaust valve flap and controller. Most of the time the valve is open but should you need to drive through flood water, actuate the valve and it shuts the front intake brake duct hose off from outside air/water and reverts to a secondary duct that snorkels upwards above the fender. Extreme i know, otherwise just dont drive through flood water! ;)
i-nRhXvGQ-L.jpg
They also sell this, but honestly the intake should never see water unless there is severe flooding.

11th Gen Honda Civic Gambit intake kit FL5 IMG_3795
 
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Gambit

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Totally agree. Never drive through flood water full stop.

I was instead looking at retaining the brake duct pipe but adding a T piece like this to direct air sideways into the pod and also toward the brakes as well.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/404806658465
 
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Hi guys, had a few people enquiring about buying a kit from me. FYI I’m not selling them as a kit as all the parts and instructions here are hopefully enough to make yourself one.
Having said that if you do end up making one just credit civicxi and the ‘Gambit intake’ for the community here and FL5 community globally.
 

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Very innovative. Wish I saw this before purchasing my hvi cai. I was just saying someone should make it to where the inlet doesn't go over the turbo to avoid heat soak issues. Should be ideal for track days.
 
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Very innovative. Wish I saw this before purchasing my hvi cai. I was just saying someone should make it to where the inlet doesn't go over the turbo to avoid heat soak issues. Should be ideal for track days.
Thank you! Much appreciated
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