Rear brake pad change question

[surftheweb]

I've seen some conflicting information regarding retracting the rear brake caliper piston during a pad change. If you first put the rear brakes in maintenance mode using an OBD tool, then do you push the caliper piston straight in (as shown in the service manual) or do you spin it in (as shown in many online tutorials)? Or does it matter at this point? Thanks!

Service manual says to just use a generic tool to push them in:

Most tutorials say to use this type of tool to spin them in:

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[Bugzy2]

I've seen some conflicting information regarding retracting the rear brake caliper piston during a pad change. If you first put the rear brakes in maintenance mode using an OBD tool, then do you push the caliper piston straight in (as shown in the service manual) or do you spin it in (as shown in many online tutorials)? Or does it matter at this point? Thanks!

Service manual says to just use a generic tool to push them in:

Most tutorials say to use this type of tool to spin them in:

I just did mine. No need to spin. I just braced it in with the old pad. It didn't require much force.

 

[MooMoo]

Confirm, just push it back

 

[Sooner1]

Do you actually need to put it in maintenance mode? Never had to do with with any other car in the past. Audi's say you have to but you don't.

 

[Gansan]

You should do it. You can get away with it if your old pad has some thickness left because you're squeezing the new pad within the "slack" that exists when the parking brake is disengaged. But to do it right and reset the ratcheting mechanism, putting it into maintenance mode is better.

Edit: @MooMoo below is also right, you can manually crank the mechanism back. Forgot about that

 

[MooMoo]

you don't have to put it in maintenance mode if you do it the manual way (which is also described on the honda manual), you just remove the parking brake mechanism which is super easy, wind it back) then do what you have to do, bolt the mechanism back in and done.

But yeah if not done in manual mode I would def put it in maintenance mode.

 

[surftheweb]

I just did mine. No need to spin. I just braced it in with the old pad. It didn't require much force.

Confirm, just push it back

Great, thanks for the confirmation. After putting it in maintenance mode, I will straight push it back.

I have one more question where there seems to be some differing info out there. This is related to what, if any, greases or lubricants to apply to the caliper/pads for a Type R. The service manual explicitly goes out of the way to specify NO grease or lubricant on the Type R brakes while the other models do call for it. See below. However, most guides online do say to use grease.

Service manual no grease on Type R - g(*3)

 

[MooMoo]

Great, thanks for the confirmation. After putting it in maintenance mode, I will straight push it back.

I have one more question where there seems to be some differing info out there. This is related to what, if any, greases or lubricants to apply to the caliper/pads for a Type R. The service manual explicitly goes out of the way to specify NO grease or lubricant on the Type R brakes while the other models do call for it. See below. However, most guides online do say to use grease.

Service manual no grease on Type R - g(*3)

Brembos and a lot of brake brands don't call for grease on pads, also if you track the car its pointless as the brakes will get so hot it will probably just crumble away quick (why I never put it on my cars cuz they all see track).

It is interesting that they say no for the type R because I am pretty sure the rear pads did have some stuff on them, fronts were installed dry (not surprised because brembos). I would just install dry specially if the manual says so

 

[scuderia_miso]

you don't have to put it in maintenance mode if you do it the manual way (which is also described on the honda manual), you just remove the parking brake mechanism which is super easy, wind it back) then do what you have to do, bolt the mechanism back in and done.

This is how I do it too. It is 2 extra bolts and doesn't require a fancy OBD scanner.

This dude explains it pretty well:

 

[MooMoo]

This is how I do it too. It is 2 extra bolts and doesn't require a fancy OBD scanner.

This dude explains it pretty well:

Nice, good to have videos. I did remove the cable to the parking brake which I dont think this dude did. Maybe not needed but I like to do it (btw that cable can be a pain to remove till you figure out how to do it).

there is another good video on youtube on how to do this, I think dude is on a fk8 on that video

 

[MooMoo]

this is a good video on it

 

[johnloov]

this is a good video on it

You DON'T NEED TO - remove the parking brake assembly or purchase an OBD2 scanner to put your rear brakes into service mode to change the pads!!!!!!

Fellas, all you need to do to change your rear brake pads is to NOT put your rear hand parking brake ON - That's it! Leave your car in first gear, and some wheel chocks.

I just did my brake pads - I can't believe everyone is instructing everyone to disassemble the rear brake OR get an OBD2 scanner.

I was like - this makes no sense, and just changed my rear brakes simply by shutting down my car, leaving it in first gear, and not applying the Parking brake.

This video also shows you how - Common sense...... Am I missing something?



pss. he's not using the brake compression tool properly - you want to use an wrench on the bolt and twist at the same time in opposite directions.

 

[PointByPatrol]

I wind it back electronically without a scan tool. I use a power probe, and a jump pack for 12v power.

 

[Blindeye_03]

I wound my EPB by hand. Wasnt hard to do at all. I am baffled at how easy it was and how unfounded my fears were.

 

[johnloov]

Disassembling parking brake or using an OBD2 computer is not needed.

Here are my steps:

1) Don’t put parking brake on, and keep car in first gear. Wheel ch for safety.

2) Take two 7mm hex screws off and metal clip

3) Crack open brake fluid reservoir, screw back compress brake piston (grease occasionally seal)

4) Drop in pads, screw back 7mm (grease occasionally bolts)hex, metal clip insert

Done

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