Recent content by lando

If you're looking for 360-380. Get yourself an intake, inlet pipe, dp, and intercooler. Pair that with the hondata flash pro, and custom tune. You should be right around those numbers.

I'll be going after those A/C controls for sure. A nice touch, that is quick and easy.

Looks like i'll be hanging on to my 25. Not enough for me to want to upgrade.

I went with the Cobb RMM and you get very minimal NVH at certain RPM's. I was honestly surprised at how well it manages it. From what everyone was saying about all RMM's, I was super nervous. I thought the car would vibrate like crazy. It's nothing like that, so I think you'll be fine with...

Just realized the first video I uploaded isn't working. I have a few videos of the exhaust on my TikTok if you want to go check them out. @lando_rooney

This is when I had only the exhaust with front pipe on, no other mods at the time.

I have this exhaust, and I really like it. Some drone around 3k when the valve is open. I have mine paired with the TSP dp, and it sounds really good! I do have a short video of it before I got the dp.

Thank you for the info! Hopefully I won't even have to mess with it. Knowing my luck though.... I probably will lol

If the code comes back, then i'll calibrate the actuator. It seems pretty straight forward. Has anyone done this before, and if so any tips before attempting this.

So far erasing the code fixed the issue, fingers crossed it stays that way. Thank you for your response. I looked over the wiring, and made sure the plug was connected snug. Was able to push the connector in a bit, so maybe it was just a tad loose. If the actuator has to be calibrated, is that...

P0046 actuator code I check the connection on it, and it moved a tiny bit. I cleared the code and then I got two more random codes P0027 and U25E5. Drove the car and it wouldnt build any boost. Pulled in my garage and the cel light went off. Cleared all codes again and boom everything went back...

Just had the TSP catted downpipe installed on my 2025 type r. For the first 50 miles the car ran great. The car was running fine, and after the 4th start, leaving the store, I got the dreaded check engine light and emissions message. Car still drove pretty normal. Message on dash said to avoid...

With the car starting up fine and the battery being good. That quite possibly could be the culprit. I know I just need to take it to the dealership. I just know if they cant replicate the noise nothing will get done.

I'll also add that it never made the sound before. I first heard it when I had about 4k miles on the car. My wife has even heard it, and asked what it was. Not sure if the push button itself is going bad or something with the ignition switch.

The sound is coming from around the push button. Some where in that area. So that makes me think it's not a fuel pump priming. It's in the dash for sure. I tried getting a video last night. Started it up a few times, and it didn't make the noise. I'll just have to video every start up till it...