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Yup. Mine is like that too. I ended up stuffing some black yoga mat foam back under there in a couple of spots.

I mean it’s all speculation. Keep in mind that they are basically removing some existing Type S parts and replacing them with better parts. So it’s not exactly the same as taking a Type S “touring” and adding parts to it. There’s some subtraction too. Know what I mean? This car won’t list for...

Nah. I still think there will be an FL5 LE. I believe this is just a special send-off for the last purely ICE Integra. It’ll probably list for around $70k. Integras were never Porsche GT car money. I’m sure dealerships will ADM them near $100k though.

Daymmm, that’s SICK. If they bring it to market as shown, that’ll be a $70k car…and worth it. The ADM will be ridiculous.

Yep. With cars already shipping and no news about any physical updates, it seems there won’t be any…except possibly minor stuff like infotainment (like you said).

This is he way. Hondata is practically synonymous with Honda and for GREAT reason. Hell…you can’t even spell Hondata, without spelling Honda first.?

Oh that’s odd. Just to check the boxes, are you in +R mode (or Individual mode with the engine in +R)? I don’t think this matters, but it would be good to rule it out nonetheless.

@PittsburghEE @Neilogz The shift lights are for racing, not puttering around town. Let the engine rev up to 5k + RPM’s and you’ll see the lights. I don’t believe it matters which drive mode you’re using, but I haven’t tested this to be sure…especially as I don’t like Comfort mode and stay away...

5 db? That’s really not much. ~3 db is about the smallest sound level change that human hearing can reliably detect. When comparing these two cars, 5 db is almost nothing…but I guess if you know what they did in the ITS this may provide some clues about some areas to pay attention to in the CTR.

Your wheel/tire size + suspension setup looks to be dialed-in perfectly. Your attention to this is definitely apparent. Nice work!

It may be worth a try, but unless you add sound deadening along the full length of the floor (because the sound is likely resonating and traveling throughout the exhaust pipe and into the cabin), I don’t think it’s going to help much. That’s just my opinion. Maybe others with more experience...

What you guys are describing sounds almost like it could be a back pressure “thump.” Might be helpful to post a sound clip if you can. Thinking about this more : The ITS doesn’t have the front resonator and the ECU is tuned to make more sounds (pops, bangs, burbles). I bet there’s back pressure...

Yep, I agree with @Clark_Kent. I’ll add that about the only time one would need to deviate from the maintenance minder (or minimum 1 yr oil change interval) is if you track your car and/or live in an especially dusty environment. Obviously these would not be considered “normal” operating...

@optronix @ABPDE5 It is what it is. Opinions don’t need to be justified. Had OP simply said “I want something fast and sporty, but more comfortable and upscale” we all would’ve been totally fine with that explanation / goal without diving into a silly sub-argument about Acura esthetics etc...

I mean…that’s pretty much how all car brands are. Some are more consistent than others, perhaps too consistent is what you’re saying about Acura. I can understand that. Honestly, Acura marketing is steaming hot garbage. It’s a shame because they have some really nice vehicles in the line. Case...

Wondering if those are maybe body plugs that are installed during PDI? Odd that they would just fall out though, if that’s even what they are, UNLESS the dealership didn’t install the correct ones. I doubt this is the case, but just trying to come up with ideas of what they might be.

The seatbelt adjustment slider is what is causing the buzzing. I had the same issue in my FL5. I have found that all I need to do is press the slider adjuster down so it is more snug in the chosen position. I haven’t heard it buzz in over a year.

@zeroptzero Your wife may simply need to tighten her seatbelt a little bit. When it is too loose it will bump against other surfaces. Roof liner rattles are usually caused by the roof liner not being fully clipped into place. Simply hitting it with a hammer fist all over you will find the...

Not sure what to look for, but I would recommend going to Discount Tire and having them take a look and account for your brake calipers. See if their recommendation matches Tire Rack’s. Heck, Discount Tire might give you as good of a price or better than Tire Rack too.

@GreyhoundR6 That’s awesome they got you a master tech on the job right away! I’m afraid to take my car to the dealer and have a random grease monkey messing with stuff and driving around…only for them to later tell me they didn’t find a problem. My local dealer is good, don’t get me wrong...