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So I think part of what you're missing here is that your 18x8.5 +38's will not have the same appearance as the wider wheels that most folks use (for summer purposes) because the face of the wheel on yours will be sunken in a good deal compared to those wheels. If you want to get a good idea of...

It's important to ask the counter-example: has anyone lost a bottom end running 5W-30 or 0W-30, where running 0W-20 would have prevented the issue from occurring?

I don't doubt it, but in a data set of 7,000 oil samples things are going to be biased towards the lowest common denominator. Is the lowest common denominator folks who take their cars to a race track and beat on them for 15-20 minutes at stretch? No, it's people who just use their car as an...

To OP: honestly those look great for a winter setup. You wouldn't want 8.5" wide wheels for summers anyway, too narrow. That video gets paraded around as if it's the end of the debate. The YouTube channel that put it together is pretty excellent and they should know better, but they failed...

This is an excellent thread. Lake's videos often contradict a lot of my biases and I've learned a lot from them. I have a decent amount of data from one of my cars that I've tracked with 5W-50. Really good wear numbers on that car. UOA is a great tool, however it's only giving you part of...

This is impossible, I've been reliably informed that 0W-40 will cause your K20 to explode immediately.

Drive when it's warmer out. Seriously, good summer tires lose a ton of grip the colder they are, and where you're at it's not warm enough right now to have good grip. It's in the 40's most mornings where you are right now, and the high over the past several days has been in the upper 40's and...

If you're feeling this while just sitting stationary, that's completely normal for any synchronized manual transmission. The synchro has to line up the gears, and it does that when you initially shift into a gear. If you then go back to neutral and select the same gear again, there's nothing...

Same, even Acura dealers are not immune to this. The car rode so much better afterwards. 😆 Here's my diatribe on the subject: https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/how-to-heel-toe-with-big-feet.57620/page-2#post-984644

I'm not saying you don't have a bent shift fork. I'm saying clutch issues can be where a bent shift fork starts.

While they may warranty it, I would be highly suspect that something is wrong with the clutch. If the clutch was dragging with the pedal all the way in, the effort to get into gear would have increased. Things like that can lead to bent shift forks.

First of all, you'll need to thoroughly bleed the clutch slave/master cylinder in order to see differences. If you just bleed the brakes, the fluid that's in those components isn't getting changed out and what's there will start mixing with the fluid you just put in the brakes, since they share...

Do you get a real winter where you're at? I've got a set of winter tires and wheels for the car and I plan to drive occasionally throughout the winter. One of the things I worry about is extreme cold making the gearbox feel like trying to stir cookie dough.

I kind of want to try both Redline MTL and ACDelco Synchromesh 10-4014. They're a bit thicker than Honda MTF, but not by a ton. Honda MTF (Approximately 70W but not listed as such) 7.265 cSt @ 100°C 30.70 cSt @ 40°C Redline MTL (75W-80 GL-4) 10.4 cSt @ 100°C 50.8 cSt @ 40°C ACDelco...

Seems like a NVH thing. Might be the thickness of my shoe soles, but I don't notice any meaningful difference in NVH after deleting it. I would note that my GT350 did not have a damper or a delay valve on the clutch hydraulic system, and that clutch was connected to a flat plane crank engine...

The first thing I would do (and this applies to pretty much any clutch work including replacing slave cylinders etc.) is put the shifter in neutral, start the car up, then hold the clutch in and wait while it's running briefly. Then try to select 1st gear. If you feel the synchro working, you...

If I'm not mistaken, the factory clutch setup can be adjusted a bit to lower the pedal and thus eliminate some of the over-engagement. I've considered doing this myself. Adjusting the fork on the rod going into the master all the way in, then adjusting the stop and the sensor to match. Then...

Yes, check the free play. Mine was dead on from the factory but not everyone's is.

Sirimoto sells a delete for the damper here: https://www.sirimoto.com/p/mm/honda/civic/sirimoto-n1-clutch-master-cylinder-cmc-damper-delete-kit.html I will say that their directions indicated the loop should point toward the driver and I had to point it away from the driver in order to get...

Folks have been using ACDelco Synchromesh 10-4014 to help with second gear grind in Hondas of various stripes for a long time now. It would be the first thing I would try if this happened to me (hasn't yet.) Since you mentioned specifically aggressive shifting, it may also be worth your time...