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Sweet! And yep, with the cancelers everything works as normal, just with passive dampers. It’s interesting, the cancelers seem like they’re just dummy damper adjuster motors, probably fully functional and nearly identical to what’s affixed to the oem shocks. They’re hefty little devices, just...

Yep, exactly - a big reason why I did this was to be able to run +R mode comfortably with VSA off.

UPDATE: Just install the Type S ADS, part number: 39381-31M-A03 Ads Unit ITS ADS is perfect imo, had it out on a VERY bumpy karting track last week and it was perfectly controlled in every suspension mode. My favorite thing about it is that it seems to be more of a passive damper setting...

Heck yeah. Go forth and play the slightly less-muted sound of our people!

Okay, I figured it out - the trick is to ignition on in-between. So, car is off, valve is closed: 1. Pull fuse, ignition on, ignition off. 2. Replace fuse with the car off, valve should open. Then you can pull the fuse again and you're all set. I drove for a while with the valve unplugged...

haha yeah it's a tight reach. You could also see if unplugging the fuse and then plugging it back in while the car is off would cause the valve to cycle open?

Yeah, it was a little loud for me. It sounds good compared to a lot of the FK8 systems I've heard, just a hint of drone around 3500rpm. Maybe down the road I'll play around with a midpipe or something, we'll see. Short of sounding like a Fiat 500 Abarth or Elantra N, my sensitive old man ears...

I've been wanting to try this for a while and finally got around to it. UPDATE: Here's the easiest way to lock the exhaust valve in the open position: While the car is off the valve is closed. 1. Pull the Active Exhaust Valve fuse, then turn the ignition on, ignition off. 2. Replace the fuse...