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Flashed the TSP Stage 1 maps on Saturday & installed the Acuity adjustable shift kit & cable bushings. Wow. That map 1 tune with the DP, FP, intercooler, intake, intake pipe & Cobb RMM is outstanding. For the first time those Falken 660+ tires are being tested. All work together so...

All for HRC parts, but it’s pretty late to the party when there are many great aftermarket companies making high quality parts with loads of options & adjustability. I know the hardcore fanboys will be happy and curious to see what the pricing is like. Thanks for posting!

Busy month. ECU is on the way to Innovative Motorsport for unlock & TSP Stage 1 ready to flash. While the ECU was out, installed the Acuity cable bushings, insulated heat tape to the bottom/sides of the PRL carbon airbox, TSP catted DP, PRL FP, lava DP blanket, turbo blanket, Acuity adjustsble...

I feel your pain. Took 2.5 months to get the cerakote TSP catted DP. My master installer snapped the only hidden stud on the turbo, had to drill it out, re-thread, etc. I got the Ti stud kit & he said he would not use Ti hardware on the turbo/DP because of heat issues. Used brass hardware...

Just FYI, installed my TSP DP last weekend with the lava DP blanket & turbo blanket & the Dream heat shield fit on top of both of them like a Dream. Just FYI & pardon the Dad joke. Not easy to see, but if you zoom in on the DP, you can see the springs on the blanket. Also, there are build...

Totally agree. Oil & Tran fluid is the blood of your R. Don’t over do it, but early is better especially depending on how hard you drive especially if you track it. Keep those metal on metal bits lubricated with clean fluid & keep the synchros happy if you plan to keep your R running tits...

I changed my oil at 750 miles & then again at 2,500 to remove all the break in bits. Going to change again at 5k. If cost is your main concern then do what the manual says. If you don’t mind the cost, change it early the first 3 changes. The Honda synthetic is good, just change it every 3k...

My humble opinion. But if you want a car that pastes a smile on your face every time you drive it, for the price point, reliability & maintenance costs, it’s really hard to beat a CTR. With $10k in mods (more detail if you want it), this car is a brilliant DD or track car, if you have the cash...

Is that the Seibon strut bar?

TSP ceramic coated DP, titanium studs/hardware, lava blanket, PRL front pipe, rigid collars & Amsoil Synchromesh fluid going in this week. Cobb RMM went on last week & with proper greasing, NVH is negligible at worst. 1-2 shift is perfect & puts power down like a boss.l

Which rock/mud guards to you have?

DM sent

Link for those mud guards?

The PS4S compound can also have issues if you drive on them below 40 degrees F.

PRL wiper delete, heat sink & carbon intake.

I’m lacking on photos. More to come, I’m motivated.

Bronze on CW FTW. Please excuse the gap.

I bought them directly from Apex when they had their last sale.

Apex forged VS-5RS 19x9.5 satin bronze 19.1 lbs

You’re an angles guy, I get it. Hehe.