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I changed to Paragon pads, with Paragon titanium shims. Also, changed to Castrol SRF. Only been on track a couple of times but no issues whatsoever with brakes related to fluid (glazed my pads a bit, left some excess material on discs and got some shimmy but that's on me). Have not swapped...

I'm not sure. I can't recall how important that little bit of clearance was at the time of install. Sorry about that. I find the tapered nose helpful because it helps me not damage the threads on frequent tire changes/rotations. But it's definitely a non-OEM look and you have to use open...

I bought the MSI from United Speed Racing. Pretty sure fk8 and fl5 are the same. Take a look at the website or give them a call to confirm.

So, I'd need an actual oil temp gauge I guess.

I have a garmin but not sure how to upload and some of the sessions have been overwritten I think.

Took the FL5 back to Road Atlanta for a 3 track day event. Pretty experienced on this track with well over 1000 laps. Relevant mods include whiteline front camber joint, SPC rear camber arms, Paragon discs, R5-R7 front brake pads (see below), P3 rear pads, Castrol SRF, RV6 rear sway at middle...

I'm actually moving to Paragon R7 pads. The R5s worked well but I'm not crazy about some excess pad smearing I see on the rotors. Definitely rolling a bit. My front and rear camber was 1.7. Got some whiteline adjustable ball joints and SPC rear camber arms so intend to increase front camber...

I'd bet it was a traction issue, but now I'm thinking twice about that. I'm trying to remember where I felt a bit of bogging - it's starting to fade on me - but my impression at the time was traction. I rarely had to crank and recrank the wheel. My tire pressures on the Falkens started at 28...

Rotation from oversteer is not really there if you are smooth on inputs - at least compared to torque steer in high HP RWD. On mid to high speed corners, I got most of my rotation from trail braking. Once you get it to rotate in, the car loves pulling you through exit. As to understeer...

It does have a gauge for oil temps - not sure if it's a direct read.

I was definitely into ABS at first when I was learning the threshold braking zone for the car and how much pedal travel and pressure was needed to get the desired results. I also kinda like using it in the rain. That's one of the reasons that I backed up the braking zone a bit at the end of...

I tracked the car at Road Atlanta for two days with Porsche PCA. Temps were in low to high 70's. Rainy the first day, nice the second. First, everyone loved the car, especially the track crew. Second, they were laughing about hard it was running and pushing much faster cars. And it...

I'll be at Road Atlanta for an HPDE event this weekend. Temps should be in the mid-60s so pretty cool. Also, first time for me with a FWD so I won't be pushing too hard. It's also going to be a bit wet so I won't remove it. When temps are in the 90+ range, I'll give it a shot.

Awesome - thanks. Still not clear to me that overheating will be a problem on the FL5, but any bit of air flow can help.

You prolly don't need this advice, but when you're trying to measure number of turns, put a dab of something on the nut so you can see the turns. I was trying to eyeball it and just kept losing count - felt like an idiot.

Thanks, I'll have to check those out.

Anyone have any thoughts on removing the water diverter plastic piece under the hood scoop? Maybe more air flow? On my ZL1, the track prep instructions suggested that the water diverter be removed for track use.

For the money, I'd go with MSI. Didn't think to try the OEMS on. Let me know if this is really a critical decision point, and I'll slap an OEM wheel on and post a pic. I think they'll definitely look a bit goofy and you'll have to use open end ball seat nuts unless you can find super long...

Well, the MSI studs are crazy expensive - I think the ARPs are quite a bit less. MSI is not something I'd consider if I weren't tracking a bunch. Also, note that I got the EC-7 with 58 offset. If you got a lesser offset, you might not need to worry about it. I'd just check it out first to...

First thing I tried as a stop gap were extended thread studs. No go with those wheels. Thought I'd save you the hassle in case you considered that.