Search results

Took the car out today with the AEV canceller in place & the AEV fuse back in place, and didn't get a CEL. Need to run it a few more days and then I'll scan it again to see if anything is pending.

You mean... that's DLOB.

OK... codes cleared. Now I just need to get out and drive it. Was hoping to take it to a car show our SCCA region is participating in on Saturday, but the weather isn't looking like it is going to cooperate. The AEV canceller from eBay: Already ordered. Just thought it was odd as I've run...

I haven't. In my experience that typically hasn't been a resolution in most cases. I don't drive this car a lot so it'll take some time to see what the effect, if any, will be.

I was taking my car to the car wash the other day when I popped a CEL on the way. Got home and scanned the car, and was greeted with the following three codes: I've got a gently massaged FL5 with the following: PRL HVI TSP Intake coupler PRL Ti turbo inlet pipe PRL Charge pipe PRL...

I didn't do the translation from inches to mm, but I know the Kumhos and Hoosiers were much closer to each other and the BFGs were a much larger outlier. Still, even the Hoosiers were bigger than the Kumhos, so all three 285s were different widths. I remember stacking the BFGs and Kumhos side...

Side note on this discussion: Just be aware some tire manufacturers cheat on tire sizing (specifically width) so that you're better off just finding out what they list as the physical measurements of their tires to verify fitment. Back in the day I had a time attack/autocross Evo 8 I'd tow a...

That's the one!

I've been told there are counts (ignition key turns, etc) kept on various control modules that won't match if you swap in a stock ECU for a dealer warranty issue. My tuner recommended swapping in a Type S ECU for flashing tunes because 1) if something goes horribly wrong in the flashing...

I have a PRL HVI paired with a PWR racing radiator and zero issues.

Yikes!

They were a stop-gap solution when I couldn't get my preferred autox tire, but they are phenomenal as a street tire. Yeah, I rotated them every two autox events. So for those folks considering these tires from the OP, they're a good buy.

I ran these tires (same spec as these) for autocross, and they did fine. Not a Hoosier, but as a 200tw tire, they worked great. Wore well, too. I've retired them to street tire duty and they still have a lot of tread. I recently picked up a set sized 285/30R18 to use for autox once my...

Ditching a stolen vehicle?

I had enough room to stick two unmounted tires in there. If the wheels aren't in their retail boxes, I bet you could fit them all.

I have to compliment you on using dashed vs solid lines that are thick enough for the colors to be seen for the dyno comparison on the MHI Stage 2 portion. Way easier to interpret than the 'mauve vs burnt orange hairline crack' typical graphs i see.

I need to see dyno sheets.

No hijacking - the Verus accommodates the J shape of the Type R jack point via a wider channel - the ZL1s' narrower channel does not. Sorry I didn't make that clearer.

Yeah, the ZL1s are the same basic thought process: they have set screws and I just keep them on the car. Mine are red, also, so they catch the eye if you're looking for them.

https://www.verus-engineering.com/shop/pinch-weld-jack-pucks-fl5-honda-civic-type-r-5302#attr=1373 I was wondering how they handle the "J" shape of the jack point. I purchased some ZL1 jack pads (https://zl1addons.com/collections/civic-jack-pads/products/civic-fl5-type-r-stealth-lift-pads) and...