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yea you only want that remote wire on a 10a fuse probably. and something that cannot be turned on with the car off. if u don't know, yea pay a shop, otherwise you will end up with headaches and a much larger bill to even get your stock audio working again....

so he's talking about aluminum wheels, are supposed to the retorqued after driving 50ish mi. this "rule" applies each time a rim and tire are mounted again after being taken off the car. basically is a safety check as aluminum wheels are a different metal than steel, and that rule of thumb...

height is about the same on a 215/45R17 as stock 18s. I'm running 225/45R17 mph (gps) is about 1 mph slower than dash, which was the same with the 18s...

I swapped my winter rims (also used on my 9th gen 2012 si) which is a 225/45/R17, 17x7.5 rim I believe offset not sure of off memory... Anyway, no codes or anything. i did do the tpms calibration after swapping. the sidewall height (45) on a 17" tire is almost the same size as the 18" in...

my winter set up is 17x7.5 rim I believe, with a snow tire size of 225/45/R17

stock suspension n setup, I personally would stick with closest to stock aka the 35 sidewall...just my personal opinion

agreed, 4 cylinder cars tend to struggle keeping up performance with the a/c on. not so much with just the the air fan running. this is pointed out in a lot of "Mexico race/street pull videos". it's just a fact of physics that your engine can put more power to the ground when it's not using...

also make sure the alternator control cable is plugged into the negative battery terminal current sensor, if that connection is unplugged it will throw a check charging system message but also put the alternator in high output (14v+).

charging system puts out only what battery needs. personally I'm not a fan of the eld system... my radar shows 11.8v-12.2v way too often, sometimes 14-14.5v. if you turn on headlights it will have alternator in high output (14v+). yours could be a different issue. Hondas are known for...