Aftermarket Stereo Using Factory Head Unit - Anyone Else Going This Route?

[Stryxx]

To start things off, I'm in a Sport Hatch, so I have the 8-speaker configuration and definitely plan on an upgrade. That being said, I plan on keeping the factory head unit, but then using a LOC to AMP setup to power the system. I've helped install on older cars where its pretty straight forward but where I'm lacking information is on newer head units how hard is it to splice the signal?

Planned upgrade parts list;

AudioControl LC7i (6-Channel Line Output Converter)
JL Audio RD900/5 AMP (4x 75W RMS 4Ohms, 1x 500W RMS 2Ohms)
Focal RSE-165 Component Speakers (60W RMS ea)
Kicker Sealed Down Firing 12" Subwoofer 48TRTP122 500W RMS

I'm also curious to see what everyone else is using, configuration, wiring and output. I know the 11th gen is newer so I don't know of many massive upgrades, but the stock alternator is something like 130 AMP so 1,000W RMS and under systems should be fine for most. It would be great to be aware of any potential issues as well as any installation suggestions.

I do also plan on sound treating but I'm working more on making sure I have what I need and understand what I'll be doing to install the stereo at the head unit back to the LOC. Diagrams and pics welcome for myself and others looking to upgrade.

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[DeviNoles]

I have 1200W RMS subs installed on the factory head unit with a line output converter.


Haven't done door speakers yet, but I plan to in the near future.

 

[Jtfe1]

To start things off, I'm in a Sport Hatch, so I have the 8-speaker configuration and definitely plan on an upgrade. That being said, I plan on keeping the factory head unit, but then using a LOC to AMP setup to power the system. I've helped install on older cars where its pretty straight forward but where I'm lacking information is on newer head units how hard is it to splice the signal?

Planned upgrade parts list;

AudioControl LC7i (6-Channel Line Output Converter)
JL Audio RD900/5 AMP (4x 75W RMS 4Ohms, 1x 500W RMS 2Ohms)
Focal RSE-165 Component Speakers (60W RMS ea)
Kicker Sealed Down Firing 12" Subwoofer 48TRTP122 500W RMS

I'm also curious to see what everyone else is using, configuration, wiring and output. I know the 11th gen is newer so I don't know of many massive upgrades, but the stock alternator is something like 130 AMP so 1,000W RMS and under systems should be fine for most. It would be great to be aware of any potential issues as well as any installation suggestions.

I do also plan on sound treating but I'm working more on making sure I have what I need and understand what I'll be doing to install the stereo at the head unit back to the LOC. Diagrams and pics welcome for myself and others looking to upgrade.

You just need a full signal from the factory unit or amp. The last 2018 Honda accord I've done they actually split the high, mids, and sub. I highly recommend a DSP that can sum the channels together to get a clean signal. We tried using line output converters (LC8) but it ended up sounding very hollow and unbalanced. Honda could have changed the design since then but the only way to know is to do some testing.

 

[barnett2746]

This is exactly what I’m looking at doing. Currently above my head. So much has changed in 20 years since I used do my own stereos feel very outta my element now.

 

[Stryxx]

Update - Half way done sound treating. Swapped factory speakers with some Kicker coaxial speakers which made a massive difference on their own. The sound treatment has only improved that. Doors for now, I have enough material to do the trunk and floors, possibly even roof if I want to go all out.

Still planning on an LC7i (Likely tap into OEM amp harness, front speakers, and use summing)

Feed the outputs into a 5 channel amp (goal is still 75w RMS speakers and 500w RMS sub) thinking my DSP and amp will have to sit under my seats.

From there run new wire from the amp to the speakers, as well as sub wiring to the rear. The down firing 12" is still on my list as I don't see myself removing my spare tire (although it's becoming more tempting to do so as I progress).

A lot of what I have found regarding the head unit, is that it's really similar to the 10th gen Civic, and the best ways to route the cabling match as well. There is a potential for ech, which I'm not too worried about, but will still likely work around when installing the new components. Thinking mid summer before I'll have everything to begin.

 

[Sullen]

Update - Half way done sound treating. Swapped factory speakers with some Kicker coaxial speakers which made a massive difference on their own. The sound treatment has only improved that. Doors for now, I have enough material to do the trunk and floors, possibly even roof if I want to go all out.

Still planning on an LC7i (Likely tap into OEM amp harness, front speakers, and use summing)

Feed the outputs into a 5 channel amp (goal is still 75w RMS speakers and 500w RMS sub) thinking my DSP and amp will have to sit under my seats.

From there run new wire from the amp to the speakers, as well as sub wiring to the rear. The down firing 12" is still on my list as I don't see myself removing my spare tire (although it's becoming more tempting to do so as I progress).

A lot of what I have found regarding the head unit, is that it's really similar to the 10th gen Civic, and the best ways to route the cabling match as well. There is a potential for ech, which I'm not too worried about, but will still likely work around when installing the new components. Thinking mid summer before I'll have everything to begin.

did you ever get around to putting in the lc7?

I’m waiting on delivery but I’d like to do very similar job to what you’re doing, I’m in sport sedan not a hatch.

I run morel components up front and a sub in the back, I have a component set in the back I fade for rear fill depending on mood, with a 4 channel and a mono powering.
…. Just hoping to move everything over and was thinking an lc7/stock head unit combo.

This is going to be the first car of MANY that I’ve ever used the stock head unit on so I’m kinda curious to how it’s all going to pan out.

another thing…. the car claims it as a 8 speaker system (dash/pillar tweets, and a 6.5 in each door I read?)
That makes 6 so unsure what’s going on with the stock system, will we need to step up to the lc8?
I guess it may not matter at all what they have routed once we divert the stock speaker wires and put ours in.

Take some pics too if you can when you wire it up!

 

[Sullen]

I'm also curious to see what everyone else is using, configuration, wiring and output. I know the 11th gen is newer so I don't know of many massive upgrades, but the stock alternator is something like 130 AMP so 1,000W RMS and under systems should be fine for most. It would be great to be aware of any potential issues as well as any installation suggestions.

the first thing I did the morning after putting down the deposit was call crutchfield and ask if the 11th gens battery and alternator would be fine with my system.
I’m right around 1000rms (amps are 400 and 500) they said it should be a non issue.

 

[Stryxx]

did you ever get around to putting in the lc7?

I’m waiting on delivery but I’d like to do very similar job to what you’re doing, I’m in sport sedan not a hatch.

I run morel components up front and a sub in the back, I have a component set in the back I fade for rear fill depending on mood, with a 4 channel and a mono powering.
…. Just hoping to move everything over and was thinking an lc7/stock head unit combo.

This is going to be the first car of MANY that I’ve ever used the stock head unit on so I’m kinda curious to how it’s all going to pan out.

another thing…. the car claims it as a 8 speaker system (dash/pillar tweets, and a 6.5 in each door I read?)
That makes 6 so unsure what’s going on with the stock system, will we need to step up to the lc8?
I guess it may not matter at all what they have routed once we divert the stock speaker wires and put ours in.

Take some pics too if you can when you wire it up!

4 channels total, 4 speakers and 4 tweeters for a total of 8, and so the LC7i is more than enough. Works great so far.

 

[Stryxx]

the first thing I did the morning after putting down the deposit was call crutchfield and ask if the 11th gens battery and alternator would be fine with my system.
I’m right around 1000rms (amps are 400 and 500) they said it should be a non issue.

130A Alternator and the battery is fine enough. I think up to 1200W RMS before you'd want to consider a big 3 upgrade. Most never throw a full sine wave through their systems and you might draw 20A on average, peak 40A or so.

 

[Sullen]

4 channels total, 4 speakers and 4 tweeters for a total of 8, and so the LC7i is more than enough. Works great so far.

oh great!

so you basically, starting from the factory wiring that goes to their speakers:

-tie in the front “4” factory speaker’s wiring to LC7 channel 1 inputs
-Tie in the rear “4” factory speaker wires to the lc7 channel 2 inputs
-tie in factory bass signal (if there is one, if not create it) into lc7 Chanel 3

Then:
- LC7 channel one and two go to the 4 Chanel amp,
- lc7 channel three to the mono for the sub,

…… then it’s just everything I’m familiar with after that?

is it going to be this simple? That sounds too good to be true if it’s that easy!!!

 

[Stryxx]

oh great!

so you basically, starting from the factory wiring that goes to their speakers:

-tie in the front “4” factory speaker’s wiring to LC7 channel 1 inputs
-Tie in the rear “4” factory speaker wires to the lc7 channel 2 inputs
-tie in factory bass signal (if there is one, if not create it) into lc7 Chanel 3

Then:
- LC7 channel one and two go to the 4 Chanel amp,
- lc7 channel three to the mono for the sub,

…… then it’s just everything I’m familiar with after that?

is it going to be this simple? That sounds too good to be true if it’s that easy!!!

Actually, there is no sub channels on the non Bose system. Front driver is ch 1, front pass is ch2, ch3 and ch4 are the rear. Use auto sum from ch3/4 to create the sub signal then feed into AMP that way. You'll need to run separate wiring for the new speakers as the OEM is really low end. Make sure to watch videos and read up on how to setup your LC7i and make sure you setup your AMP after you're done with the LC7i. Going back after setting your bass and channel signal strength messes with AMP gains so LC7i first then the rest is the AMP.

 

[Sullen]

Actually, there is no sub channels on the non Bose system. Front driver is ch 1, front pass is ch2, ch3 and ch4 are the rear. Use auto sum from ch3/4 to create the sub signal then feed into AMP that way. You'll need to run separate wiring for the new speakers as the OEM is really low end. Make sure to watch videos and read up on how to setup your LC7i and make sure you setup your AMP after you're done with the LC7i. Going back after setting your bass and channel signal strength messes with AMP gains so LC7i first then the rest is the AMP.

thank you, that seems simple enough!
for some reason I always imagined setting up with a factory head unit would be so much more complicated but this all sounds pretty cut and dry.

indid see a few blurbs about setting up the lc7s when I was quickly checking prices on them.
I’ll figure that out, my main worry was having to dig deeply through factory rats nest wiring but seems it won’t be bad at all..

thanks again man, this thread really eased my mind

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