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Here you go, if you still need it: https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/fl5-camo-vector-or-ai-file.91368/post-1340732

Both are a little squeaky. Can't say much about rotor wear yet, but the RPX supposedly causes greater wear. I went through 5-6 RPX sets before changing rotors for the first time. Rotors still had >50% life, but the rotor surface was badly deteriorated and required more and more time to seat new...

Yeah do it! I only wish they had less bite. They could lock the racing slicks with 70% pedal pressure. Exactly! It was unnerving for sure.

There's a leaflet in the box with instructions. They do recommend a few stops for mating in. But since there's no material transfer, it doesn't require the usual one or two heat cycles for bedding in. I don't change pads for the track. The sr11 (or the rpx before) are there all the time, even...

Sintered pads require no bedding at all, just mating to the surface. Since I had brand new rotors, my brakes were perfect at the get go. Usually I'd waste almost a full tank of gas bedding in my rpx following ebc's procedure. Yeah, I didn't even bother measuring them after a 50+ laps trackday...

OEM. Getting at least 4 track days out of each set.

I've just used SR11 for the first time, with brand new paragon rotors and A005 slicks. What a beast of a brake pad. Could easily overload the slicks, yet very good to modulate with low pedal pressure. I won't ever go back to rpx now...

The pre-facelift fk8 didn't have active sound. Honda added it to 2020+ models for this exact reason. People complained the car was too quiet during aggressive driving.

The R has a ride height sensor. It's wise to always disconnect the linkage before pushing the lower control arm down.

I assume you meant CDV. Deleting the CMC would probably make a difference ?

A parallel setup provides the best heat transfer. Likewise, always prefer single pass radiators instead of double pass. Get a greddy sandwich plate with spare AN -10 ports. The parallel connection is built in - just route everything to the sandwich plate. From...

Water temp is actual yes. I'd suggest to mount the dual oil cooler setup in parallel though. The heat transfer is more efficient (larger temp difference overall) and you get a smaller pressure drop. A greddy sandwich plate helps with that.

I love it. I'm moving an aux radiatior to the side as well. I can't see on that picture - where are the ports on the new radiator? How are you planning to bleed air out of the coolant circuit? My setup requires vacuum bleeding.

Thanks for this. Yeah I wonder if that's enough to keep oil temps in check.

So they still have an oil to water cooler, but of a larger size? I know they don't have an oil to air cooler, so I always wondered how they kept oil temps in check.

You can adjust your pedal. Here's the reference thread about this issue: https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/transmission-grinds-lockouts-causes-solutions.62471/

My wife owns a stock 19 si coupe and I own an fk8. Yes, it's specific to the type R trans. I'm used to it, so I take my time shifting 1-2. On the Si I can upshift a lot faster and never had an issue. Half of my car 2nd gear grinds happened in the very few occasions she was driving it.

Yeah, I agree. Just wanted to share.

Are those oil coolers from CSF? Why did you change from Mishimoto?

Seems like it. Reminds me of mishimoto's kit for the fk8 that also deletes the brake duct.