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I still can't vouch 100% for it, because I've only put about 300 miles on the car since switching, and we ran out of cold weather early. Coldest it ever got after switching was about 17°F, which it handled fine. Assuming it holds up to more mileage and that the more extreme cold weather...

I did not find the factory fluid to be smooth, in fact it felt like there was inconsistent and excess synchro effort. Switching to Red Line MTL made all of that go away.

Should've done Red Line or ACDelco. :dunno:

The whole point of this thread was demonstrating how they both contribute to the sensation of disconnection and unpredictability with the clutch pedal. If you're adult enough to not sidestep the clutch repeatedly trying to find out what breaks, get rid of all of it. Get rid of the clutch...

Quite a few manual transmissions will have a fill hole that serves as the check hole. Our cars have three, and the check hole is significantly smaller than a fill hole ordinarily would be. That's what makes it difficult to execute. The threads are M6 - not large at all. All are conventional.

Make sure you have an appropriate torque wrench for the M6 check bolt or this might happen to you. I'm guessing most people don't own a torque wrench that can accurately do 9 ft-lb.

Prepare by keeping the stock parts on the shelf instead of selling them.

If you have aftermarket parts on the engine, why does the dealer "need" to do any fluid servicing at all? Do it yourself or have a trusted shop do it and keep the receipts.

Yes, perfect. So @johnloov and anyone else looking to set this up to fill the transmission, you would need: Motive 1735 Power Fill Pro However many feet of tubing you want to add after the ball valve - Motive 0409 (ordered by the foot.) Motive 0412R swivel fitting. (Swivel so you can thread...

Just get the full shifter and don't look back. Don't worry about this even a little bit. It's more intuitive to shift with the Acuity. I set mine up to have only a very slight reduction in throw (with a taller knob height) and you can set it up to have zero reduction in throw or whatever you...

Do you know what the threads are if you remove that? (No chance they're engraved on the fittings themselves?)

Good to know. The question I had about it from just looking at it, trying to figure out a way to adapt it for @johnloov is, what the heck is this fitting on the end in the stock photo? I think for the tiny check hole in our cars, finding the right combination of fittings (plus maybe a quick...

You actually didn't say what you torqued it to. My assumption is that you just re-used the same torque value for the fill and drain plugs. I don't see how you could have sheared that bolt otherwise. My advice was to help the next guy, not you. You were already f'd. Glad you got it sorted.

The torque spec on that bolt is 9 ft-lb, and that's below the accurate capability of most torque wrenches. I have used and can recommend this one for that range, it's also a handy size and accurate towards the high end of the scale at 40 ft-lb also: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C8MVHQ47

On iPhones at least, you can disable wireless CarPlay. This means the only way CarPlay ever connects is via USB. Googling this for Androids, there appears to be a hidden way to do this by tapping on the version repeatedly. I can't vouch for any of that because I don't have an Android, though.

Awful advice. It's not the distance. If you drive 5 miles or 100 miles, that first few miles are going to be what warms up the tires. Before the tires get warm is when the damage occurs.

Lowest paid person in the building, just below the janitor. You get what you get. That tech F'd your shit up, OP.

Motive also has a larger version of their brake bleeder (one gallon vs 2 quart) that's specifically for this type of thing: https://www.motiveproducts.com/products/powerfill-pro-1-gallon-tank I like that it has a ball valve, but I'm not sure what all fittings you would need. If you were to use...

The airbox in these cars comes out ridiculously easy compared to almost every other car I've ever worked on. Remove the sensor and pull it back, release two snap-in clips for some other wires, four 10mm bolts, a 5.5mm bolt on the hose clamp, and it's out. You will waste far more time than that...

The Civic Si can do 31.5 mph in first gear. Assuming a 900 rpm idle speed, you are *idling* in second gear at 7.5 mph. So just to get going in second gear, you have to slip your clutch up to at least 7.5 mph unless you want to make the engine very unhappy. And realistically, you don't ever...