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Try sitting facing 90 degrees left, then rotate into driving position. I've used this before when injured. Just watch your head.

Mine looks the same. The wipers were removed during my windshield replacement.

The mounts look a bit janky, especially the plastic(?) brackets on the hatch surface.

I had mine replaced with the OEM PN, because the glass company went by the VIN. I have zero deductible glass insurance and unfortunately glass coverage is a must in AZ. My understanding is the CTR windscreen is thinner than the regular hatch PN, but the regular hatch PN has desirable features...

I'm older, but dealer tinted windows hide my identity. My previous FR-S had youngsters looking my way until I tinted that car. And older folks had no idea what a Scion FR-S was... I got a lot of questions. At least the CTR wing is more than just bling. Honda quoted down force numbers in...

I found it easier to remove the wire connectors with the telematics module partially removed, so I just left it out entirely. My '24 gets 3 years of free GPS updates, so I'll plug it back in for a few minutes before that expires.

Mine looks fine after 2 years, but we don't experience sub-freezing temps here.

I removed the dealer decal an hour after I got the car home. I bought a showroom car and the decal was already applied. Dental floss, WD-40, and elbow grease will remove the annoying 3D dealer badge shown.

No noticable short term emission changes, but CA CARB inspections may flag it for visual differences from stock. It helps emissions in the long run by reducing intake valve build-up. I'm happy to be in an AZ county without inspections. My cars would pass emissions, but no more hassle.

I added a Mishimoto PCV catch can and it captures a few ounces of oil between oil changes. Reasonably priced insurance and easier than cleaning intake valves on CTR's.

Ti is an awesome material due to high strength per weight. Excellent for aerospace structures, but not for fasteners per my above comments. Also Ti isn't as strong as many fastener alloys. I don't know what alloy Honda uses, but common grade 8's are stronger. More exotic nickel and corrosion...

Per decades of aerospace experience, titanium is a very poor choice for fasteners (unless weight is everything). Ti galls easily, creeps loose, and most Ti alloys aren't good beyond 600degF sustained. And we were using certified aerospace traceable, USA sourced titanium, vs. eBay Chinesium Ti.

A few things that may impact steering feel other than the steering rack: 1. Change in tire pressures. Higher pressures generally lower friction. 2. Change in temperature. PS4's stick much better in summer temps. 3. Change in tires. New or different brand. 4. Change in alignment. Changing...

I'll never trust a dealer to perform service other than a safety recall! Also tire shops only get my wheels, no impact wrenching luggage nuts off/on with zero torque measurements. My son had his GTI oil serviced about 1/2 of the time. The other times I was watching pieces of oil pan thread...

Sorry about your loss. For everyone else: I highly recommend a Faraday pouch and OBD2 port blocker for any new car. Theft rings seem to be well equipped with Autel tablets. A theft ring in Phoenix was well armed with AK pistols too, so not worth confronting. That ring was after trucks...

The owners manual says 5.7 US quarts for an oil and filter change. My lipstick is slightly above the high mark after adding 5.5 US quarts.

There is ZERO need for the dealer test driving the car if the latest recall procedure is used. The alignment is untouched. If the rack was exchanged, they might have an excuse, but I've never had an alignment shop test drive my car before giving it back to me.

I've used GM Syncromesh and Amsoil MTL before in other cars. I prefer them over Honda MTL, especially in cold weather.

I've used Akebono pads on other Honda's experiencing long life, low dust, and low rotor wear. I'll consider them for the CTR when the time comes. I'm not tracking. No need to replace rotors unless they are damaged, warped, or too thin. Minimum thickness is called out in the service manual...

Get it done. Techs now have plenty of experience and it only takes about 1/2 hour. Otherwise you risk component wear from insufficient lubrication.