Thanks for the advice - I just told them that I wanted it setup for dual use - street/track. So if I take it back to the shop, I should ask for somewhere between 0-1.0 total toe in up front, and if it's possible for them to get the front camber closer to equal on both sides?
I don't have the RSR adjustable pillow ball camber plates, just the stock RSR coilovers. One of the stock plates is rotated 180 degrees though - my shop said the other didn't need to be rotated.
This is how my shop setup the alignment based on dual duty street/track. Speaking of, I think I'm almost ready for my first track day, just need to change the factory oil.
Not sure how to measure that accurately at home. The RSR negative camber position gives somewhere between -1 and -1.2 according to the manual, and the LBJs are supposed to be -1 at the middle setting but they also say āup to -3ā so perhaps middle is -2? My digital angle tool says -3.5 currently...
RSR active coilovers (used the negative camber position)
Whiteline LBJs (currently on middle setting)
Whiteline rear upper arms (currently set to stock length)
PRL collars will go in this weekend - wish me luck!
Finished coilovers, LBJs, and rear upper arms. The weather is improving so decided to put on the TEās. Still need to put rigid collars in, dial in the height and get alignment next Monday.
Probably missing something obvious but how do I torque the lock seat in the rear? The manual states 60Nm but when I turn it with the supplied wrench, the body turns with it (the black threaded part).
Over the weekend I did RV6 downpipe, Funk turbo blanket, Project Aero lip, @VtechSlayer Hondata e-tune (thanks James!), and got RE-71RS mounted to 18x10 TEās. Now if we could just fast forward to summerā¦
Thanks to everyone on this thread for posting information. I went with the below combo and am really happy with the square look of the tire and how flush it is with the wheel. Will be going on a BB FL5.
TE37 Saga S-Plus 18x10 +40
RE-71RS 265/35/18