Search results

If your engine experiences an oil related problem under warranty and they find an aftermarket dipstick, good luck! A family member works at a major auto company (not Honda) and dipstick calibration is a big thing. Mis-calibration resulted in issues there, though I don't recall the details...

Also CTR lug nut torque is higher than most Honda's at 95 ft-lb.

The ITS damper module is my best investment. Longer drives are now less tiring in comfort mode. My Plus R mode is still overly stiff. Sport feels good on smooth roads.

Rod and crank bearings would be most affected by loss of oil pressure. Cam bearings generally less of an issue, unless larger wear particles were injected. Plenty of cam lobe pics, but we have roller tappet engines needing very little lube on roller surfaces compared to crank/rod plain...

Years ago my Acura dealer employed what appeared to be minimum wage, unskilled labor for oil changes, tire rotations, and then wash the car before returning it. I declined that service. Skilled mechanics were reserved for the big stuff.

At a minimum you've lost many years of wear and tear, even if okay-ish today. Before/after oil pressures would be a good indicator, but it wouldn't surprise me if the dealer added heavier weight oil after the event (to disguise engine noise). Get Honda corporate involved.

Have any USA Type R owners received the recall notice by mail? I've seen nothing.

Technically no, but doesn't mean they won't try. Small claims court is generally the fairest path if the dealer and Honda North America deny significant claims. Also note the Magnuson-Moss warranty act protects consumers as well. That being said, unlocking the ECU, engine tuning, new...

S100 motorcycle cleaner is by far the best I've used for such things. About $13/liter at motorcycle shops. I dilute 50/50 with tap water and put in spray bottle. S100 is similar to Simple Green, but doesn't harm plastics. Simple Green grayed some of my black plastics. I use S100 to clean our...

Personal cars: 72 MGB 81 VW Scirocco 73 911T 87 CRX Si 93 Prelude Si 99 Civic Si 04 Acura TL 6MT 14 Scion FR-S 24 CTR I'm leaving out 2 company cars and my wife's cars.

This bar won't add much stiffness in my opinion (I'm an engineer). The bar is welded to vertical plates without gussets to the strut tower flange. The vertical plates and flanges will bend under load.

If clutch slip, it will be noticeable near max torque rpm in taller gears.

Grip in freezing weather is a small fraction of a hot summer day and assume zero snow/ice traction. Also, the tires will flat spot overnight and take 5 or so miles to round up again. A friend claimed his Chevy owners manual said tire damage could occur from driving summer only tires in sub-zero...

Unless the bolts are torque + angle of turn (i.e.: 60 ft-lb + 90 degrees), they should be fine for reuse. If mentioned for nuts, I normally use blue threadlocker instead of buying new. Obviously my recommendations are for fasteners in good condition, not worn, bent, corroded, or subject to...

If you change the oil, don't start the car unless you thoroughly warm up the engine. Moisture will condense in a cold crankcase per motorcycle sightglass observations. You won't get permanent tire flat spots on bare concrete, if only sitting over a cold winter. We had an S2000 in New England...

I've been offered windshield tinting in the past, but optical clarity is an issue for me. The clarity reduction is liveable if you are in a dense urban area, but noticeable in wide open country. I prefer to see speed traps before they see me and have less eye strain on longer trips.

My reference is the 5000 mile oil change on my car. My oil life was at 40% at 5k miles. I live in a hot climate, with few short trips and get 29-31 mpg due to mostly highway use.

40% of oil life used up in 1700 miles? I say it was "run hard and put away wet". I recommend an oil change and brake pad wear check. Then change oil again at 5k miles and every 5k after that.

Not sure about your problem, but I've noticed the CTR will shut off if I lift off the brake and/or clutch pedal during startup before it's stabilized at idle. Now I wait a second or two of idling before releasing pedals and issue never returned. The shutoff at 20 minutes is a safety thing...

I switched to Pennzoil 5W-30. All 0W-20 oils are thin, like water when warm. UK owners manual okays 5W-30 oil viscosity. Oil dilution is generally only a problem in sub-freezing weather, and then only short trips never getting the oil warm. CTR's having an oil/water heat exchanger helps...