As others have stated, overheating on track isn’t a reliability issue. It’s a design issue, depending on how hard it’s driven and the conditions.
If tracking frequently the center lock wheels are a pain. No easy tire changes, wheel changes or even checking torque.
Mine had carbon ceramic brakes. They are great on the street, no dust, great bite, not very noisy. On track they don’t last and are extremely expensive to replace. Rotor wear...
I really enjoyed the GT3RS on the road. If I was going to track regularly I would have needed to replace the wheels and brakes, eliminating some of what I liked on the road. I never experienced any body damage but after going through it with the Nismo GT-R it just seemed like to pricey a car for...
My last few performance cars:
2013 Nissan GT-R
2015 Nissan GT-R Nismo
2017 Ford Focus RS
2019 Porsche GT3RS
2020 Lotus Evora GT
2024 Honda Civic Type R
I’ve tracked all of these cars.
The GT-R overheated on the track and was big and heavy, tough on tires and brakes.
The GT-R Nismo was...
I had a weak moment and ordered the Honda forged wheels in OEM size so I’m committed at this point.
I’ve read the V730s fit with stock suspension and OEM wheels. The mounted width is listed as only 0.2” wider than PS4S but obviously diameter is quite a bit larger (1.3”).
I like the idea of the V730s but they don’t come in 265/30R19 so I’d either have to do the 255/35R19 or 275/35R19. Have you fit them on the OEM wheel size?
I’d rather not go with PS4S again though maybe the camber change will be enough to change my opinion.
I’m not learning, just new to this car.
I thought this would be the case as well, but if the sidewall stiffness is a key variable for front wheels with stock camber (-1.5 deg), it could be that certain tire types wear better with that setup.
What surprised me about losing the driver’s front in one day (6 sessions) was that my...
I had looked at this chart and wondered how well it applies to FWD setups like the FL5.
Example: I found that on my Lotus Evora, PS4S tires lasted much longer than Cup 2. The chart says AAA for the PS4S and A for the Cup 2 so it matches my experience.
On the FL5 the PS4S survived for one track...
I got one track day out of a brand new set of OEM PS4 tires. The driver front chunked off the outside edges.
How do the recommended tires in this thread compare in terms of performance? The durability looks to be better of course.
I did a track day at I29 Speedway today on the short course. Brand new Pilot Sport 4S tires. Ambient temps peaked around 75 F. I’m running consistently 1’19” laps without traffic.
Hot tire pressure on the fronts was 35 psi. In one track day I’ve destroyed the driver’s front tire with chunks of...
Haha, of course it’s a risk but this car is very forgiving on track. I’ve owned and driven on track:
2013 GT-R
2015 GT-R Nismo
2018 Focus RS
2019 GT3RS
2020 Evora GT
2024 FL5
The FL5 is the easiest to drive safely, followed by the Focus.
Lift oversteer is definitely a thing.. but if you’re controlling your speed I really don’t think it’s a big crash risk with this car. It’s really forgiving. Start slow and smooth and you’ll pick up speed pretty quickly.
I noticed no safety improvement from TC/VSA on in the FL5 in dry conditions. In heavy rain I left it on and it was useful.
The FL5 is very forgiving on track. I would replace brake fluid and brake pads and do the pedal dance for the safest setup in dry conditions.
I have run TC on in a 911...
The expansion tank isn’t near the leak I’m seeing. The apparent leak is on the right side (when facing the engine) behind the fan. I can’t see how any fluid from the expansion tank (on the left side) would reach that location.
I have the track spec radiator. It’s not leaking at all in normal driving, including driving around after a track session. It only shows any leak during high temp track driving. Because of this I don’t think a pressure test will find the leak unless done on a dyno at high temps. I haven’t been...
I recently purchased the Remark full titanium exhaust from TSP. Are they replacing the titanium front pipe with a stainless proactively or only after a failure?
You’re right about the radiator. I meant PWR.
To use the P3 for oil temp I thought I’d tap into one of the HEL’s ports. I assume that’s possible but I’ve never done any aftermarket gauges in any previous cars.
Thanks for the advice on the tune. For now it looks like I’ll go with CP Motorsports...