Running credit before disclosing is not ok.
Now, if it had been plastic only and the intercooler...so say a tow hook....no fluids. No trauma to fenders, bumper bar, headlights, hood...just sort of a shot to the intercooler....for the right price and with a full warranty, and my being happy with...
Since they stopped European and I think domestic (Japan) sales, my gut says they'll just leave it alone again. It sells. And these features do add complexity and cost... The infotainment makes sense ONLY if it makes their supply chain simplify (only one model across the whole brand).
I just...
Stuff happens. If the price was right....maybe. I agree with the tow hook theory. If the hood and fenders (metal) are fine, bumper grill and intercooler were the issues...plastics/pre-painted stuff....that would sway me if price was adjusted down a lot. If metal was bent and/or respraying...
I love the stock in sport for my street use.... I "like" it a lot....have softer cars but find the R just is best stiff in terms of the feel...call me odd. And I am over 40yo, have had a 911 gt2...with 3 ways...so I get it. I worry that this system will dilute the car....I like it being stiff...
I have the PRL one and I like it quite a bit....it is "just right" as I use the car every day but like to "feel" the car. It is all I personally need....for a street car.
I like the fact that the materials PRL used were such that the thing should outlast the car....that sort of engineering...
+1 for the Kollektiv Werks front (center on my FL5) license plate mount. Not cheap, but worth it.
Well made.
Elegant design.
Easy to install.
Nice looking.
Works well.
Recommended.
PS: From the above thread "Note : Honda engines do cycle in such a way that the intake valves are partially sprayed by fuel to help keep them clean. I saw it in a Honda video awhile back. It can’t prevent buildup like Toyota’s port/DI combo, but it helps. Obviously Toyota’s system has patents...
None. Apparently the K20C1's don't have much of this....may be engineering (mist of fuel, etc.). I am speaking of the K20C1 (type R)..but this thread suggests the 1.5 you have is also in good shape: .
Have 4 or them with the stock MPS4S tires mounted on them (original wheels on car now with Pilot Alpin 5 for winter drives, and they are great for what they are too).
These wheel look great, are as light as advertised, and were very high quality. They look proper JDM although don't undervalue...
I love the FL5 stock...added the PRL rear engine mount, an acuity shifter, and some other minor stuff...it is great and I don't feel it needs "more rawness"....it is for 2026 pretty much perfect.
I just did this...with a new one planned in a few days. You could drop things in there or the dust issue.... Cabin noise is the same. The click of the collar to knob is gone...so it got quieter actually. It also looks great. Allowed a longer rod (Acuity)...
The "new" one will be a mesh ti...
Thank you. Have seen these in person and they look suspiciously exactly like the real deal one - same carbon direction layout, same threaded insert look, equal quality amazingly, and similar weight.....my question was more about how it held up to say 125mph or 150mph bursts.... When I felt one...
Have an acuity shifter (love it) and want to ditch the boot and go with a plate (have a 3D printed one from Etsy). There is a wire harness attached to the boot bottom (white plastic I think from memory). You disconnect this from the boot.. The question is, what is the best way to manage this...
I have a set of these...great price and great wheels. ET60 so you avoid torque steer. OEM quality and easy to get a new one if you track and say bend/break one on curbing, etc. They have my PS4S's on them right now and are waiting for spring. Someone should buy these....