Supra, bmw m2C.
you can just look at the national solo results.
that’s the risk when you buy a new car platform, it may or may not be competitive. You also run the risk of the car getting re-classed.
The best way to determine optimal pressure is to get an IR thermometer gun and measure the cross section of the tire surface right after some spirited driving. Your goal is to get the temps as even as possible across the surface of the tire.
if outer edge is hotter, bump up 2psi and retest.
If...
changing tire pressures more or less only affects the stiffness of the tire's sidewall. you'll need to do testing to see what the 'correct' pressures are, which is why i'd just use the door jam pressures. an online calculator will just get you the ballpark pressures.
for example, if you run too...
there's isn't perfect tire pressure. it depends on what your goals are. the stock pressures are optimized for street driving/MPG, so i would stick to that unless you have some other use case e.g., track, autox.
i'm not sure running 295 is actually making you go faster than a narrower tire. people may still have the misconception of cramming as much tire onto the wheel since that worked back in the Hoosier days. with 200TW street tires, i don't think that same strategy works.
In Search of the Fastest...
I’m not sure how Spoon does their R and D, but I believe Eibach will at least shock dyno the spring and damper combo to ensure the new springs are within damper specs.
nobody knows the actual knock strategy unless you're a honda engineer that works on the ecu knock strategy. we're just all speculating how often the ecu attempts to advance the timing. for all we know, the ignition may need a restart after it has detected the first knock before it starts...
eh kind of. Modern knock strategy will pull timing across the entire load range and will stay that way for an indefinite period until higher octane is put in. It’s not like it’s constantly retarding it only after it detects knock.
the factory PS4S are street tires meant for daily driving. personally i wouldn't waste money and storage space for a second set of wheels for summer driving. tires will dry and rot out over time even if you don't drive them. mileage isn't the only thing that wears out tires.
the only time i...
The hooks on the bottom were never meant to be used for towing. They’re tie down points used for transportation.
The car should be on a flatbed under normal usage. I’ve seen tow trucks lift by the front wheels but need to be careful the straps don’t touch the fender.
what's your goal with these track tires? there are many types of 'track tires'. just depends on your goal. for example, the OEM 4s are fine to be used on track. if looking for one lap wonders (e.g,. RE71RS), then you'll need to choose a different size...
i wouldn't go past the maximum negative camber (without pins) on a street car. you'll probably get around -1.6 +/- 0.2. beyond -2, you're looking at aftermarket suspension parts and uneven tire wear. just not worth it on a street car IMO.
after each session, look at the triangle located on the...
These cars are aligned to tolerances from the factory. A custom alignment will make the car even more “balanced”. Whether or not a new driver can feel the differences is probably debatable.
more negative camber and alignment are for tire preservation. he may or may not eat up the tire sidewall depending on track/temp/driver skill etc. would be crappy to "ruin" some new tires after one track event.
typically under $150 for an alignment. cheap tire insurance IMO.