Problem driving through water puddles - grind/buzz when I rev - have to restart the car to fix

[Blindeye_03]

Yeah I assume the misfire is related to this pending DTC or may have been with the clamp hitting the bottom of the car?


But they c

But they couldnt or wouldnt check the codes there that I showed them even. I was already mentally drained and didnt want to waste anymore time just dealing with this yesterday. Im taking the car back Wednesday for the new breather hose - ill look into the upgraded one but no the car is mostly stock - aftermarket RMM and Acuity shifter assembly.

edit: You know.. I have a dashcam hardwired - it has radar for the parking mode so it doesnt pull too much from the battery, but I wonder if this is what that is from?

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[giantfiretruck]

I’m the tech who looked at your car the second time lol, im a busy man at work for sure as a senior tech, it’s a big dealer and I do not speak for my dealer, just a 25 year guy In the same damn stall at that. There are so many reasons for a misfire, when it’s actively missing, its not simple to fix always but, i can diagnose it, and prove it because its not fixed until it’s proven fixed. Temporary or pending dtc’s are tough,can’t fix what I cant can’t duplicate. As for the voltage code, that could have been a voltage spike at any time, or reason, but I’d need to look at troubleshooting info. Lots of codes are sometimes stored for all kinds of communication issues in modules, everything now in a car is a computer itself and they never show an issue. It’s easy to fix them when it’s a duplicatable issue, and I can prove I fixed it, especially customer pay as opposed to warranty. When it’s your money on the line, as it is mine when I’m a customer too. As a flat rate I can’t spend a day looking for a needle and not get paid but we all lose our buts from time to time. I fix cars, I love Honda’s I have a Type R and it’s my pride a joy as well, so I know I’d be upset at mine too for issues. Find a tech you trust at a good shop while you can, any shop and I’m not saying me lol. Us old guys are far and few between, lots leaving industry. Oh and the exhaust was an easy spot, and I hope it’s fixed, won’t know until it rains again though.

 

[jtlctr]

I’m the tech who looked at your car the second time lol, im a busy man at work for sure as a senior tech, it’s a big dealer and I do not speak for my dealer, just a 25 year guy In the same damn stall at that. There are so many reasons for a misfire, when it’s actively missing, its not simple to fix always but, i can diagnose it, and prove it because its not fixed until it’s proven fixed. Temporary or pending dtc’s are tough,can’t fix what I cant can’t duplicate. As for the voltage code, that could have been a voltage spike at any time, or reason, but I’d need to look at troubleshooting info. Lots of codes are sometimes stored for all kinds of communication issues in modules, everything now in a car is a computer itself and they never show an issue. It’s easy to fix them when it’s a duplicatable issue, and I can prove I fixed it, especially customer pay as opposed to warranty. When it’s your money on the line, as it is mine when I’m a customer too. As a flat rate I can’t spend a day looking for a needle and not get paid but we all lose our buts from time to time. I fix cars, I love Honda’s I have a Type R and it’s my pride a joy as well, so I know I’d be upset at mine too for issues. Find a tech you trust at a good shop while you can, any shop and I’m not saying me lol. Us old guys are far and few between, lots leaving industry. Oh and the exhaust was an easy spot, and I hope it’s fixed, won’t know until it rains again though.

You sure seem like one of the knowledgeable and trustworthy techs. Can the OP request you specifically when he brings his car in?

I feel for you on the diagnostic front, especially in the modern age of over complicated everything. I worked in a small independent shop from around 2000-2012 and we thought computer systems were getting complicated then. That stuff must feel like working on a ‘68 VW Beetle compared to today’s cars!
And intermittent problems are the worst! Especially with newer cars where the source of a problem could be 75 different things. If I ever sell my FL5, I’m going back to a Honda from the ‘90’s or ‘00s.

 

[Blindeye_03]

I’m the tech who looked at your car the second time lol, im a busy man at work for sure as a senior tech, it’s a big dealer and I do not speak for my dealer, just a 25 year guy In the same damn stall at that. There are so many reasons for a misfire, when it’s actively missing, its not simple to fix always but, i can diagnose it, and prove it because its not fixed until it’s proven fixed. Temporary or pending dtc’s are tough,can’t fix what I cant can’t duplicate. As for the voltage code, that could have been a voltage spike at any time, or reason, but I’d need to look at troubleshooting info. Lots of codes are sometimes stored for all kinds of communication issues in modules, everything now in a car is a computer itself and they never show an issue. It’s easy to fix them when it’s a duplicatable issue, and I can prove I fixed it, especially customer pay as opposed to warranty. When it’s your money on the line, as it is mine when I’m a customer too. As a flat rate I can’t spend a day looking for a needle and not get paid but we all lose our buts from time to time. I fix cars, I love Honda’s I have a Type R and it’s my pride a joy as well, so I know I’d be upset at mine too for issues. Find a tech you trust at a good shop while you can, any shop and I’m not saying me lol. Us old guys are far and few between, lots leaving industry. Oh and the exhaust was an easy spot, and I hope it’s fixed, won’t know until it rains again though.

I did bring up the misfiring that ive seen while logging with the Autel 808 once the first tech pointed at the coils in the video that was sent to me. I think he was just pointing out there was oil on top of the valve cover. I had forgotten that was even happning till that triggered my memory. But it was real hard to understand what he was saying. And thats what got me curious about oil being in the plugs and in the tubes. And maybe the car was picking up on the exhaust hitting the bottom of the car...idk..

The other pending code could be from my dash cam being always on and using that for "parking mode".

Anyways - I appreciate that you did take the time to explain everything.. I am not a mechanic but have torn down engines and done motor swaps. I have some knowledge - enough to get me into trouble lol.

I am also dealing with refinancing my house after going through a divorce so the other day was hectic and stressful as hell.

But as for the rattle - I think its fixed. I did drive last night in the downpour we got and I didnt experience any crazy sounds.

Ill be back on Wednesday to get that breather replaced. Hoping its just that and not the cover or cover gasket.

 

[jtlctr]

I am also dealing with refinancing my house after going through a divorce so the other day was hectic and stressful as hell.

I’m sorry to hear that, man.
Hopefully the vibration is fixed and is the beginning all the headaches in your life getting sorted out!

 

[Blindeye_03]

I’m sorry to hear that, man.
Hopefully the vibration is fixed and is the beginning all the headaches in your life getting sorted out!

I appreciate the kind words!

Honestly there will always be headaches, hopefully theyll just not stack up at the same time for awhile, lol.

I drove in the rain twice now and havent had the vibration come back (plus I did see where the clamp was hitting the bottom of the car). I feel confident that part is fixed.

 

[Chung Yang]

Hi from Malaysia!

I've recently been experiencing a similar issue with my FL5.

Whenever I drive during heavy rain, sometimes the car suddenly starts vibrating badly. It feels like the engine is misfiring, and when I press the accelerator, the car struggles to pick up speed, almost as if it's losing power. But it only happened like 1-2minutes, right after i drive slowly it becomes normal back.

I consulted a foreman, and he suggested that water might be getting into the intake system, potentially causing the airflow sensor (MAF sensor) to give incorrect readings.

However, every time this happens, I open the bonnet to inspect the engine bay, but I can't see any obvious signs of water entering the intake. I also don't drive particularly fast during heavy rain.

For reference, here is my current FL5 modification list:

Engine & Intake

• PRL Intake
• PRL Inlet Pipe
• Titanium Charge Pipe
• PRL Intercooler
• Downpipe (1:1 copy of RV6)
• Titanium Front Pipe
• Custom 3-inch Mid-pipe Exhaust

Exhaust & Other Modifications

• Retaining the original ON/OFF exhaust valve
• Diverter Valve
• Thermostat

Cooling System

• PRL Coolant Tank
• Koyorad Radiator

Has anyone experienced something similar, especially during heavy rain?

Could this be related to water entering the intake, a sensor issue, or possibly something else?

Would really appreciate any advice or suggestions. Thanks in advance!

 

[Blindeye_03]

check your exhaust clamps - mine was smacking the bottom of my car in rain

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