Generally, bigger turbos increase top end power at the expense of low to midrange. I would't want that for a daily driver, unless commuting on the autobahn.
I recommend placing an order and getting in the queue.
I did that with my ATS damper module (no stock, no date). It took about 3 months, but I got it.
I've had a couple Honda bumpers replaced and they used to come unpainted. Getting a prepainted version would be a bonus.
If available, silicone dust boots should withstand 450 degF for a very long time. Longer than most of you will own this car. I'm speaking from decades of jet engine experience.
German cars have done this for years, not allowing owners to service cars themselves. Goes with not having oil dipsticks.
I never had issues with Honda's, though an OBD2 connected memory saver is probably a good idea.
Pinning the steering is considered bad with older hydraulic systems.
Back in the day I got yelled at enough by my Dad during driving lessons, that I don't make a habit of pinning any type of power steering.
Use 5W-30 if you want your engine to last longer than you want to keep the car. 0W-20 is strictly for USA CAFE standards. Your car will exceed the warranty period on 0W-20, but good luck getting beyond 150K miles. And I know folks with 300K+ miles on Hondas using 5W-30.
5W-30 is okay for all...
I've tuned 2 motorcycles, going from factory 14.7:1 to 13.5:1 air/fuel ratios and observed fuel economy was unchanged.
It sounds like you're running way rich and if you don't have a downpipe problem, you will soon.
Blizzaks don't last very long. I'd just live with the minor speedo error and go bigger with your next set of tires.
A GPS will give real speeds at cruise, if you dont have radar signs in your area to calibrate yourself.
I installed a Mishimoto catch can and it catches a fair amount of oil between changes, not water. I live in a hot climate, so the car may never sees freezing weather.
Seeing the intake valves are difficult to access, I'd rather have the catch can trapping oil. I've cleaned intake valves...
I recommend taking it in for a code check.
Turbo cars in the '80's often pinged when shifted at redline, but today's electronics should stop this. Ignition timing and waste gates weren't perfected back then, as non- turbo cars still ran vacuum ignition advances and knock sensors hadn't been...
If it was driven hard enough to wear through 2 sets of tires, the brake pads should show significant wear.
You can look at brake pad thickness using an inspection mirror (small mirror on a telescoping wand) through the wheels. I recommend using a small flashlight too. Pads should be near new...
I'd check the engine compartment under-tray fasteners. I've not experienced a problem with my FL5, but my son's FK8 fasteners tend to go missing. I keep a set of spares for his car.
I rotated front to rear, rear to front at 10K miles. Stock tires and alignment. During this time front tires wore evenly 1/32 inch more than the rears. No unusual shoulder wear.
Car is not abused, running mostly open highway.
Sorry the dealer screwed up.
I was worried about reverse mount wheels living in a small town, but it wasn't a problem for the local tire shop (Big-O-Tires, western chain).
I got a nail through a sidewall and plugged it, but the plug eventually leaked (as expected). At least the plug gave me...
Make sure the dealer removes the shipping spacers from the springs, otherwise the car rides very hard. They can be seen without crawling under the car.
The only way to get an untinted Honda in AZ would be to buy ahead of the car arriving at the dealer.
That being said, I prefer tint for privacy and heat/UV rejection. I use a Weathertech sunshade in the windshield if parked outside, so no windshield tint.
Backup cameras eliminate my worst...
A salesman tried to sell me a 2026 CTR today. If Honda cancelled the 2026's, this particular salesman hasn't gotten the memo. There were no 2026 CTR's at the dealership.
Not sure how common this problem is on stock, non-tuned cars. I've heard of a couple, but also stories of cars covering 300k miles with only scheduled maintenance.
All engines eventually fail in some way.