Honestly something like llumar platinum while more expensive is like super good quality as far as ppf concerned
Source: me, car is full ppf with llumar platinum
Alright guys
Hit the hub and wheel mounting face. Can just use some throttle body cleaner brake cleaner w/e and buff out. If you have larger build up youll have to buff it with scotch Brite or something
Ticking went away so far maybe 10 miles driven on it as a test not much yet.
But yea...
what time you thinking? i work a lot of hours so i am trying to sleep in a bit sat. but if the time is right ill drive up
late morning would be best for me, if that lines up im down
update
after examining the cv boot / joint and tie rods etc, I had someone else look at it, they said that the front end components all checked out and look just fine
i washed the car and blasted the inside of the rotor shields with a high pressure washer
clicking went away for 2 hours...
Yep ill pull em and buff em and see how it goes. Will follow up. Probably won't have time this weekend unfortunately but ill most likely have time within the next week
Yep correct
Thing is, cv axles make a different noise more like a clunk, higher density source object than like a small tick, but people just call it a click which is kind of nondescript so in reality the likelihood that it's the cv axle tie rod etc is like actually low
Otherwise we'd hear a...
In another thread apparently the mopars have the same issue with the very small ticking noise in the same exact way, apparently those guys are fixing it by buffing the contaminants off the wheel mounting face and the hub. I took some video of my tie rods and cv axles and they honestly look just...
basically same as OP, like a metallic string tiny click once per rotation at slow speeds when wheel is turned somewhat strongly right and accelerating. i used to find a groaning sound when doing a similar turn which is now gone, and now when turning right its like a little tick tick tick noise...
also i should mention, there are harness implications for the igla.
you really want a professional installer for this kind of work.
highly recommend against going with any random discount shop.
best place to start would probably be Compustar Pro status installers and call around until you find...
Compustar links up to the drone mobile app, and has tilt break and other sensors that can be set to be incredibly sensitive. The compustar remote itsself has a 3km range apparently. If you have those sensors set to a sensitive setting if someone touches the car youll pretty much know. On a...
Car is in SGP
PRL HVI
PRL titanium turbo inlet
PRL charge pipe
PRL RMM
PRL Intercooler
RV6 front pipe
Te37 saga S plus in bronze 18x10+40 275/35 michelin ps4s
Tuned by jester on 101 octane regular gasoline mix
I'll be going e85 big turbo soon, full race hpfp, tsp downpipe, canflex, rv6 r660as...
Congrats on the buy
cant go wrong in any color tbh they look good period with the wide body, also can always wrap or black ppf as well.
remember to change the oil at 500 miles, the point at which the highest instance of wear metals will exist in the motor for basically the entire life of the...
Buy brand new and perform correct break in yourself. The way I see it at the current stage of life cycle of these cars there is functionally no point in buying used unless you have 100% verifiable proof of exactly how break in maintenance was performed.
I am frequently in areas where wheel/vehicle theft is a very real possibility, I opted to go with Compustar t13 and IGLA. Flat out basically the only way to steal the car is with a lift.
IGLA goes into service mode if it needs to go to a shop for some reason. Else they cant start it. CAN bus is...