Fenrir1's 2025 Civic Type R FL5 CW

[Fenrir1001]

No more dropping my phone in the crease!

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[Fenrir1001]

Got some Chasing J's titanium exhaust stud kit, strut nut kit and dip stick. Figure since I've seen alot of ppl breaking their studs on the turbo part, id get them replace when I get my front pipe and catback exhaust swapped out when the time comes. But I swapped the dip stick as of now and its pretty dope.

 

[Fenrir1001]

Got the hasport rear engine mount and wot cooling plate installed

 

[Fenrir1001]

Verus MC brace

 

[Fenrir1001]

Dressupbolts up front

 

[Fenrir1001]

My buddy was able to reinsert the strut pin in. Turns out all you need to do is to hammer it back down in place lol then got the R1 Titan Titanium Strut bar (040/100) with Chasing J's titanium burnt nuts on with an alignment done at the same time.

 

[getRIGHT]

Isn’t this the FSB that has a serial number? Which number did you get?

 

[Fenrir1001]

Isn’t this the FSB that has a serial number? Which number did you get?

Yup 40 of 100

 

[getRIGHT]

Cool!

 

[Fenrir1001]

R1 titan titanium strut bar unboxing

 

[Fenrir1001]

This finally came in. Been waiting for this and im excited that its finally here. WCLatheWerks SpoonSports Ti burnt Replica shift knob. Its a little bigger and heavier than the original design requested by me. I liked the acuity knob tbh but I want something that not many people have but still retain the burnt finished thus I decided I wanted a spoonsports knob. I did not want the exact copy because the original knob weighed less than the type r knob and I wanted a weighted knob if I was going to replace my knob. This is the result

 

[derbo904]

Is there a reason you put back the alignment pin?

 

[Fenrir1001]

Is there a reason you put back the alignment pin?

So what happened was without the alignment pin, when you remove the 3 strut nuts, due to the weight of the car, gravity will pull down on the strut thus shifting the strut into max camber position because the strut hole on the chassis is Oval shaped, not circle. With the studs being shifted, the strut bar will not fit due to the holes on the bar not matching up with the studs. The strut bar is made to fit on stock strut positioning. With the strut now shifted inward, it will not fit. Therefore I have to fix that alignment so the strut is back in stock position and mating with the bar becomes possible. Thats why the strut pin is there in the first place. To prevent the struts up front from moving. If you dont run this strut bar, its not an issue if you remove the pins. The problem is I wanted to run this strut bar. Its a shame amuse didnt think of this issue and copy the cutout Oval shape onto the bar as well so I can run factory max camber with the bar. Idk if you can see it, but in this picture if you look at the cutout around the studs, its wider than your normal car

 

[derbo904]

Ahh, I figured it was a strut bar hole fitment issue. That is a bummer but a very good datapoint.

I wanted to remove the alignment pin to add more camber and didn't think a strut bar wouldve been designed without a little more tolerance for the shock tower holes.

 

[Fenrir1001]

Ahh, I figured it was a strut bar hole fitment issue. That is a bummer but a very good datapoint.

I wanted to remove the alignment pin to add more camber and didn't think a strut bar wouldve been designed without a little more tolerance for the shock tower holes.

Yea its unfortunate and disappointing that a $2k bar company didnt thought that through. I can always get a shop to bore the extra space needed but do I want to destroy a $2k piece?

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