CTR FL5 Rear Engine Mounts

[PointByPatrol]

I have the Hasport 62A on mine and 0 wheelhop and vibrations are not bad.

I also have the Hasport 62A, and I really like it. Anything stiffer than that could be quite uncomfortable and cause annoying buzzing noises in the cockpit. I had the 27won track spec mount in my FK8 and the bushing actually came apart internally, which is why I strayed away from that brand for the FL5.

For those of you asking or wondering: Stiffening the RMM reduces engine movement, which forces the drivetrain to do it's job at the expense of your personal comfort. You are in fact putting more useable torque down to the ground because you are not allowing the same amount of deflection.

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[Integra23]

I also have the Hasport 62A, and I really like it. Anything stiffer than that could be quite uncomfortable and cause annoying buzzing noises in the cockpit. I had the 27won track spec mount in my FK8 and the bushing actually came apart internally, which is why I strayed away from that brand for the FL5.

For those of you asking or wondering: Stiffening the RMM reduces engine movement, which forces the drivetrain to do it's job at the expense of your personal comfort. You are in fact putting more useable torque down to the ground because you are not allowing the same amount of deflection.

Any low idle vibrations with AC on? This is what I didn't like with the 27won. It was tolerable until the AC was on.

 

[PointByPatrol]

Very minute. Almost unnoticeable.

 

[hammeredsole]

I assume you’re talking about polyurethane plastics. But PRL is the only one that uses EDPM rubber. Rubbers in general absorb vibration much better with a much higher temperature tolerance

Correct. I am not replacing the entire mount, rather using a poly insert that goes into the void of the OEM mounts. This way, the RMM is actually a hybrid solution. OEM structure and fit, rubber OEM bushing, but removes the area of free play with a semi-compliant PU bushings. It is a much more cost effective option, and does essentially the same exact thing as the other options, but me may actually be arguably better.

Does anyone have a low mileage OEM RMM to sell? I will be 3M'ing it, as in my experience, that way is actually better than everything else.

 

[Jester04]

Any low idle vibrations with AC on? This is what I didn't like with the 27won. It was tolerable until the AC was on.

Yes there is a slight vibration with the 62A mount but its livable. If you are running hondata and it bothers you too much I can always raise your idle speed a bit and it goes away or any tuner of your choice.

 

[Azkyrie]

I

Correct. I am not replacing the entire mount, rather using a poly insert that goes into the void of the OEM mounts. This way, the RMM is actually a hybrid solution. OEM structure and fit, rubber OEM bushing, but removes the area of free play with a semi-compliant PU bushings. It is a much more cost effective option, and does essentially the same exact thing as the other options, but me may actually be arguably better.

Does anyone have a low mileage OEM RMM to sell? I will be 3M'ing it, as in my experience, that way is actually better than everything else.

have the oem ITS rear motor mount (lower torque rod)

It’s the same exact part as the type R

 

[Integra23]

Now why did Honda decide to have the bolt enter where the downpipe is.. no way of removing this without pulling the dp.

 

[Jester04]

Now why did Honda decide to have the bolt enter where the downpipe is.. no way of removing this without pulling the dp.

You mean to remove the lower engine mount? It comes out without removing anything else but the skid plate. Super easy job only 2 bolts aside from the ones from the skid plate.

 

[Integra23]

You mean to remove the lower engine mount? It comes out without removing anything else but the skid plate. Super easy job only 2 bolts aside from the ones from the skid plate.

You can get that bolt out enough to remove it?

 

[Jester04]

You can get that bolt out enough to remove it?

Yes sir! You loosen both bolts, and take the vertical one out completely. The horizontal one will back out enough that you can wiggle the mount off and replace. The bolt will stay in place and it should be easy to do.

 

[Jester04]

If stock front pipe, yes. If aftermarket, you need to remove it (larger and no room for bolt to come out).

Yes the stock one has a provision for it.

 

[Integra23]

Yes the stock one has a provision for it.

Doah. I'm running PRL DP.

 

[Jester04]

Doah. I'm running PRL DP.

Then you are im for a more involved install. Take it to a shop if you do not want to deal with it.

 

[Azkyrie]

Now why did Honda decide to have the bolt enter where the downpipe is.. no way of removing this without pulling the dp.

All you need to do is loosen the bolt. Once loosened there’s a slotted bracket that you can pull the RMM down from and then unscrew the bolt. Installation is the same way, don’t tighten, leave a few millimeters gap to slot the bolt back in, then tighten

 

[hammeredsole]

I
have the oem ITS rear motor mount (lower torque rod)

It’s the same exact part as the type R

How much would you like if you’re looking to sell the OEM ITS RMm dogbone? I just did the Powerflex yellow insert and it’s worlds better than OEM, with absolutely minimal increase in NVH, but in my experience window weld is still better. As crazy as it may seem, 3M WW provides a completely solid fill, holds up long term, and because of the OEM rubber, doesn’t vibrate like crazy. I tried everything under the sun on my FA5, and WW was just flat better. now that I’ve got the Powerflex insert, I can fill an OEM and let it cure for a few weeks.

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