OEM+ Build

[HKSpeed]

Installed a Whiteline rear sway bar and aftermarket Accord endlinks.

This concludes all the major mods I wanted since I bought the car 3 months ago: suspension, intake, exhaust, wheels, and front lip. My car is a commuter, so I wanted basic bolt-ons to improve the daily driving experience.

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[Screen Protech]

Here's my 2024 Civic Sport 2.0.

Backstory on the car:
I bought in July 2024. I planned to buy a new car in 2025, then I read news that Honda would discontinue manuals in non-turbo Civics for 2025. So I had to act fast before 2024s sold out. I want to avoid the added cost and maintenance of a turbocharged vehicle. Speed isn't a priority for me. If I wanted the added power, maintenance, and costs, I would've bought a WRX. My options for a manual non-turbo compact were the Civic and Mazda3. I passed on the Mazda because manuals are only available on $5K more premium trim models. Hondas have better aftermarket support.

Modifications:
I prefer OEM+ styling for my cars. I admire aggressive stance, wheels, and bodykits on other people’s cars, but I don’t want the hassles that come with it. I prefer subtle modifications that only car enthusiasts notice. I don't want attention from everyone, especially those who don't care about cars (like my wife and mother ). I park outside every night, so I avoid modifications that attract thieves (legit wheels).

The first thing I did was install a lip from eBay. Then tint (20%). Then I lowered it 1.4” on H&R Super Sport springs. I bought the springs used on FB Marketplace for $100 before I bought the car. I met the seller at the dealership while I was negotiating! Then I added an eBay trunk spoiler. Next I looked around for OEM+ wheels. Very few Honda/Acura options available because many are now 5x120. I don’t want to install spacers or adapters. I like 19” 2020 Accord Touring wheels, but they are hard to find. I learned Tesla Model 3 wheels are 5x114.3 and 64.1 center bore (same as Honda). Model 3s are abundant in my area (Los Angeles) and I found many for sale. I found this set for $600 with almost new tires. Compared to the stock 18” Civic sport wheel, the Model 3 wheel is lighter (7 lbs), wider (half inch), and stick out 18mm. I don’t care for the included Lexani tires, but they are stock Civic size: 235/40/18. Model 3 tires are taller 235/45. The wheels look bigger on the Civic with the shorter sidewall and smaller car body. Model 3 wheel wells are larger to fit optional 20s. I seen lowered Model 3s on 21s. The Model 3 wheel is like an improved OEM+ version of the stock Civic 18” wheel. I have blank covers for the center caps and black lug nuts. I’m done with mods for now. I’ll consider a rear sway bar with end links and an exhaust if I find a really good deal. Maybe a subtle/clean rear lower diffuser if I get an exhaust.

Past cars:
My previous car was a 2017 Hyundai Elantra GT lowered on H&R Sport springs, KYB shocks, and 18” Genesis wheels with lower/RWD offsets (stock Elantras came with 16” and 17”).

Before the Elantra, I had a Scion TC on Tein coilovers and 18” SSR Professor SP1 and Volk Racing CE28n wheels.

20 years ago I had a S13 with SR20 and Silvia front conversion. That's my old Scion TC with it was new.

Before I divorced, I lowered my then-wife's Mazda3 on Eibach springs and 18" Mazda RX8 wheels.

Back in the early 2000s I had a MK3 GTI on ST coilovers and ABT A23 wheels.

What is your favorite mod that you did on the car? Was there one that stood out to you?

 

[Unity Performance]

Not many pushing the 2.0 platform, good to see you making progress! Will be following for more updates

 

[HKSpeed]

Been a while since I been here, because CivicXI is a FL5 forum for all intents and purposes. I did 2 small mods in recent months:

Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
I live in Southern California, so I don't worry about my throttle body freezing shut. I made a video explaining what I did.

A week after I made that video, I replaced the coolant hose with 5/16 silicone caps.

Resonator Box Plugs
I bought rubber plugs for the resonator box holes. $3 each at Lowes. The outer diameter of the holes is 40mm. The inner diameter is 38mm.

Wheel Covers
Tesla Model S Arachnid style covers for my Tesla Model 3 Aero wheels from ebay. They were black. I painted them gray.

I bought 2023 Si front brake calipers. Si front rotors are 12.3", versus 11.1" for my 2.0. Si front calipers are made by ATE, whereas my 2.0 front calipers are made by Akebono. I haven't installed them.

 

[HKSpeed]

I installed Hybrid Racing Detent Springs and eBay shifter cable bushings on my 2024 2.0 6MT. Five months ago I installed an Acuity short shifter and a Whiteline transmission mount insert.

I was concerned the detent springs would make shifting harder, but it did not. The detent springs makes the shifter minorly stiffer when wiggling around in neutral. I wonder if this has the same effect as Acuity's centering spring.

I love the tactile feedback going in/out of gear. I analogize the feeling of the springs to a satisfying click when pressing a button (e.g., mechanical keyboard or cell phone volume buttons) or flipping a spring tensioned light switch. The stock Honda manual transmission is praised for buttery smooth shifting, but that smoothness provides little tactile feedback. The detent springs trade the numb-smoothness for a spring-loaded action. I can feel when I'm in gear by overcoming the spring resistance, rather than feeling for the shift lever to reach the end of the gear slot.

The yellow highlights are the bolts to remove from the transmission to install the springs. Install instructions from Hybrid Racing. YouTube install on a 10th gen 1.5t. I removed the airbox and battery.

I wasn't planning to get shifter cable bushings, then I found the eBay bushings for less than half the cost of Acuity, Hybrid Racing, and PRL. The eBay (also sold on Amazon) bushing design closely resembles Acuity's. The stock bushing is rubber, while the eBay unit is aluminum in a hard nylon sleeve. When I move the shifter to the end of the gear slot, there is no spongy movement/play in the shifter. I was surprised that it made my short throw shifter feel even shorter! I followed Acuity's bushing instructions.

Installed shifter base bushing from eBay. They look similar to Acuity's design, compared to Hybrid Racing and PRL.

Left: aftermarket bushing (metal)
Right: stock bushing (bottom half is rubber, top half is metal)

 

[HKSpeed]

Replaced the stock clutch stopper with a magnet and foam tape. Both from the junk bin in my garage. Eliminates some of the dead space after the clutch engagement point. Saved myself $21+ shipping (from Japan).

 

[HKSpeed]

After 5 months of using the Whiteline insert in the stock (FL2) rear motor mount (RMM), I modified the Whiteline insert and installed a stock Type R (FL5) RMM. I changed the setup because vibrations at idle with AC on were too harsh. I bought a used FL5 RMM after reading this post. Comparing the RMMs side-by-side, I determined the only difference is the FL5 has an additional rubber insert in the bottom opening. Do not buy the FL5 RMM. Save your money and buy an insert from Whiteline, Powerflex, or Perrin. I cut my Whiteline insert to mimic Powerflex's FK8 insert, and installed it in the FL5 RMM. Polyurethane mounts and bushings are commonly available in 4 durometer levels (higher = stiffer): 62a, 70a, 80a, and 94a. The Whiteline insert is 94a (no wonder it vibrates ), whereas Powerflex's FK8 insert is 80a. I want a setup that is stiffer than stock FL5, but softer than 94a. I want to eliminate the engine-rocking motion when shifting on the stock RMM. My driving habits are tame enough not to experience wheel hop. I am very happy with the new setup. No vibrations when AC is on. Less vibrations below 1200 RPM and in reverse. When I do an oil change 1,000 miles from now, I'll install the FL2 mount with a Powerflex 70a insert.

Sources for my research on insert options:
https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/powerflex-rmm-insert.85316/
https://www.powerflexusa.com/how-to-choose
Honda OEM Civic FL5 Type R Rear Motor Mount (RMM) | 22+ Civic, 23+ Int
Whiteline Rear Motor Mount (RMM) Insert | 16-22+ Civic, 23+ Integra
Perrin Rear Motor Mount (RMM) Insert | 16-21 Civic Manual

4/29 Edit: Received the Powerflex yellow insert. I'll install this at my next oil change (900 miles from now).

 

[blueroadster]

After 5 months of using the Whiteline insert in the stock (FL2) rear motor mount (RMM), I modified the Whiteline insert and installed a stock Type R (FL5) RMM. I changed the setup because vibrations at idle with AC on were too harsh. I bought a used FL5 RMM after reading this post. Comparing the RMMs side-by-side, I determined the only difference is the FL5 has an additional rubber insert in the bottom opening. Do not buy the FL5 RMM. Save your money and buy an insert from Whiteline, Powerflex, or Perrin. I cut my Whiteline insert to mimic Powerflex's FK8 insert, and installed it in the FL5 RMM. Polyurethane mounts and bushings are commonly available in 4 durometer levels (higher = stiffer): 62a, 70a, 80a, and 94a. The Whiteline insert is 94a (no wonder it vibrates ), whereas Powerflex's FK8 insert is 80a. I want a setup that is stiffer than stock FL5, but softer than 94a. I want to eliminate the engine-rocking motion when shifting on the stock RMM. My driving habits are tame enough not to experience wheel hop. I am very happy with the new setup. No vibrations when AC is on. Less vibrations below 1200 RPM and in reverse. When I do an oil change 1,000 miles from now, I'll install the FL2 mount with a Powerflex 70a insert.

Sources for my research on insert options:
https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/powerflex-rmm-insert.85316/
https://www.powerflexusa.com/how-to-choose
Honda OEM Civic FL5 Type R Rear Motor Mount (RMM) | 22+ Civic, 23+ Int
Whiteline Rear Motor Mount (RMM) Insert | 16-22+ Civic, 23+ Integra
Perrin Rear Motor Mount (RMM) Insert | 16-21 Civic Manual

I would not recommend adding inserts to the stock mount. Even though the FL5 has a removable insert filling a portion on one side of the mount, I consider it as a band aid solution.

The diameter of the OEM polyurethane bushing is large which is a good thing. A better option to consider is injecting the voids on the OEM RMM with 3M Windo-weld that has a Shore A between 55-60. Many OEM RMM's have a Shore A of 70 with voids. Aftermarket RMM options commonly use a solid and smaller diameter polyurethane bushing that is also much more stiff.

Here is a cross link to another thread where I am in the process of modifying the OEM FL5 RMM. I should have updates to post in the next few days.

 

[HKSpeed]

Installed Powerflex yellow inserts into the OEM FL5 mount (stock FL5 insert removed). I prefer this combo over my previous setups. Very minimal vibrations at startup, reverse, accelerating below 1500 RPM, and idling with AC on. My priority is to improve shifting (eliminate engine rocking between shifts) with minimal vibration. I'm not concerned about wheel hop. Powerflex yellow inserts have a softer 70a durometer rating compared to the Whiteline's 94a. Whiteline is too stiff. If I didn't like the Powerflex inserts, I would've tried a 60a RMM from eBay (silver or black) or 3M Windo-Weld.

 

[HKSpeed]

PRL rear strut bar installed. I found 2 install videos on YouTube, which removed the trunk interior. Instead I removed the rear seat airbags thanks to this YT short. I'll clean up the cut flaps from the interior another day. I didn't want to cut holes. The flaps will kinda close when I remove the bar. I'll eventually replace the 4 bolts with quick release pins for the ultra rare occasion I carry oversized items. I used quick-release pins for the rear strut bars on 2 previous cars. I found one from my home gym that fits perfectly!

I also have a PRL front strut bar, but not installed yet.

 

[jtlctr]

Do you notice any difference? I had a WRX drivetrain swapped ‘93 Impreza wagon that I made a rear X brace for. It ruined the cargo carrying capacity, but it made an incredible improvement in handling. Obviously the chassis rigidity of the FL5 is far superior to that car, but I wonder if there’s still any noticeable improvement to be had.

 

[HKSpeed]

I haven't driven it on the street since installing it yesterday afternoon. Forum member @Cueyo stated it made a bigger difference than the front PRL strut bar.

 

[Cueyo]

I haven't driven it on the street since installing it yesterday afternoon. Forum member @Cueyo stated it made a bigger difference than the front PRL strut bar.

Stiffening the rear of the car makes more of a difference in general I think. The sports do great with suspension mods and the fact that it becomes so much more controllable is a huge plus

Btw that looks so much better than the cuts I made haha, how'd you get it like that?

 

[HKSpeed]

Stiffening the rear of the car makes more of a difference in general I think. The sports do great with suspension mods and the fact that it becomes so much more controllable is a huge plus

Btw that looks so much better than the cuts I made haha, how'd you get it like that?

Thanks for your feedback. Your input convinced me to install it, rather than selling it.

I used heavy duty wire cutters to make cuts 5mm at a time.

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