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Yeah, minor misfires happen all the time. That’s totally normal and are accounted for. But misfires that are significant enough to throw a CEL are definitely more concerning. This doesn’t mean any damage was done, but you definitely want to get it taken care of ASAP.

Might be valves too tight out of spec. I was getting misfire codes too. My car drove totally fine, but threw a random CEL twice (MANY miles passed between them). They thought it was electrical at first. I thought for sure it was the solenoid issue. Nope on both accounts. After the 2nd CEL they...

Even if all this testing and analysis result in no problems found (fingers crossed), I appreciate the due diligence here. Good job ?

I think every manual vehicle I have ever owned has exhibited this temporary “lockout” to some degree. The way it was explained to me (pardon me if this is not completely accurate) is that the gears may sometimes need to be jogged a little so the teeth align. This is especially evident in new...

? It is best to maintain a diplomatic approach. Discuss the path forward : What you want vs what Honda Corp. and the dealership can do. Asking for things/discussing is A LOT different than demanding. Understand your rights, but keep the legal stuff in your back pocket until it becomes obvious...

@TurboZed-R It may be unrealistic to expect to get a new car out of this, but I think it is very wise to ask for anything/ everything possible. At minimum it is part of the negotiation process. The point you’re missing is that the OP will need to figure out what to do with his devalued car and...

Not sure I’d necessarily go straight to the track from the dealership lot, but otherwise agree that break-in is more of a recommendation than anything. Given that the recommended break-in is just 600 mi versus the old/typical 3000 mi recommendation says a lot. With all that said, it’d be better...

Your dealer is incorrect. Break-in is 1000 kms (~620 mi).

I’ve noticed that it can take awhile for the car’s oil temp gauge to re-estimate the oil temp if you drive for awhile, park for a bit and turn the car off, then drive again. It always comes back, but not immediately. Not sure about LogR, but one would think that it simply follows the car’s oil...

That’s normal. Your best bet is to make a friend here on the forum or find a used one to test drive.

That’s a good take @Tickle and a logical approach. Let the dealership and mechanic do their job. In the meantime the OP should research the legal stuff as well as revaluation of the car (with the new engine). It’s an odd situation because now the car is basically going to be “refurbished.” It...

Interesting. I thought the FK2 (including engine) was fully built in UK. Learned something new. Thank you! …but yeah, the K20C1 has been in production since 2015 ; A couple of years more than I originally thought.

A brand new, unmodified, blown up, K20C1 is definitely rare. It doesn’t matter if the engine was made in Japan or the US. That’s irrelevant. Nothing is perfect and these aren’t bespoke, meticulously hand built vehicles. While I (like many others) like to believe that Japanese manufacturing is...

Yeah that makes sense : Why run the RPM’s higher if there’s very little or no more power available? I want to say I saw a video or read somewhere that Honda was intentionally conservative with the RPM limit for the sake of reliability. Peak torque is at 2.5k RPM’s with the K20C1. In the K20A2...

Well said. The Bose system is OK and does not live up to the brand hype. It is functional ; Good enough for many. Anyone who says the system is amazing is simply inexperienced and/or getting paid to lie. LOL! The speakers are as cheaply made as one can imagine. For this simple reason alone, the...

UGH!? Yes, the K20C1 is correct for the FL5. I can’t keep the nomenclature straight. Appreciate you verifying my (mis)info.?‍ The K20C2 is (I believe) the NA 2.0 found on some models.

Should be able to easily get one from the dealership if you want an exact OEM replacement. It might not matter, though. I would only be concerned about poor fit and possible water ingress (with a non-OEM part)…but I admit that’s my OCD talking a bit too.?

@Zone47 Let us know what you find. You’re right the K20C2 doesn’t have balance shafts. I got engines mixed up and was looking at the K20A3 when I made my earlier statement, and don’t want to assume the K20A2 also doesn’t have an unbalanced crankshaft. There’s so much different info and it’s easy...

@Zone47 The RSX-S indeed has a related engine, but it was NA, balanced (except for the crankshaft I believe), and fuel injected ; Quite different than what’s in the FL5, despite the K20 lineage. Coming from a K20Z3 myself, I know what you mean by those older engines running glass smooth thru...

You would have to quickly dunk them in ice water to warp them…like, ramp your car directly into an icy lake after your brakes are red hot. You can also warp many other parts this way too.?