Uh…No. The guy on Reddit who bought the Camry after buying an FL5 simply said the Camry is a better car. Define “better” and it’s basically the exact same argument you have for your CR-V. The problem with that Reddit thread is that I don’t think English was OP’s first language, so he didn’t do a...
Thanks! ?
I knew I was over-simplifying and not explaining correctly…and admittedly was also being lazy to look up Jester’s data, which I knew existed.
What I was (poorly) trying to explain is that there’s no direct correlation between the electronic sound module and the valve. As such, pulling...
No. The engine sound setting doesn’t affect when the valve opens. The valve is entirely controlled by throttle. It’s separate from the sound module.
Valve fuse pull doesn’t have anything to do with the artificial sound. The artificial sound is entirely fabricated, like video game sounds. I turn the engine “noise maker” to Comfort mode and it is either turned off or it is so low that I can’t tell if it is on. The only way to be sure it is off...
At idle I don’t think there’s enough exhaust flow to make a difference in sound. I drove with the fuse removed for months, then put it back. The only difference I noticed was more soot on my center pipe with the fuse removed.
There was a similar thread on Reddit a few months ago. Dude bought an FL5, but apparently didn’t understand what the car was built for. He complained about harsh ride and other “issues” that can be said of virtually any performance car. Dude then bought a Camry and started posting in the TypeR...
It’s all just back office paperwork processing and it’s probably automated. Communication is secondary. Pretty much the only time places communicate with you is when you owe them $. Funny how that works, huh.
Well…that other dude…it was basically his fault and he knew it. Glad you’re not him, but frustrating for you nonetheless. You’ll get it sorted. Just sucks it is taking so long.
Yeah, if you take the car to a shop, it’s just going to happen.
If you DIY everything, all you have to so is put something strong, but softer than metal, between the jack and the pinch weld. I’ve heard of people using a small piece of wood. You can even use a folded up rag. They make rubber...
Wait…are you the same dude on Reddit who let their temp plates expire like 2-3 months ago??
(You posted pics of the car sitting in the garage and I noticed the temp plates had already expired. We had a short chat about it.)
You can get another temporary tag (or an extension on your temp tag), I’m pretty sure. I can’t imagine you’re the only person to deal with this sort of thing, so there has to be an alternate solution.
I think the red mirror caps are kinda meh. They’re not awful, but they just remind me too much of Mini Coopers. If you’re going to swap out the black ones, I think body color is going to look the cleanest. You could also go with carbon for a more racing/technical look. Too bad there’s not an OEM...
Just take it in. It’s better to start the process with Honda in case it pops up again. Maybe there’s a fix for it. If it becomes something worse, then it’s all on record. The second time the car has the same error, the dealership shop has to call the Honda Corp Tech line. The third time it...
First CEL happened at about 1700 miles. Second one happened at about 2700 miles. Dealership said they found that 2 of the exhaust valves were just a little tight, and I think maybe 1 intake valve was slightly tight too, iirc. They weren’t extremely out of spec, but apparently juuuust enough to...
My CEL’s were at startup too. Though, what’s weird is that they showed up on my 2nd or 3rd startup while running errands. The car had initially warmed up and hadn’t cooled all the way back down when I restarted the car the 2nd or 3rd times.
Even though the codes popped at start-up, it’s...