HPL sells "NO VII" engine oil. basically oil without any viscosity improver. I haven't tried it but people rave about it. supposed to be extremely shear stable. "virtually no shear". doesn't come in 0w. only 5w and 10w oils.
yep. and they seize easily. I kept having them round out due to seizing. Finally applied anti-seize to the four fasteners and haven't had any issues since. and they really don't need to be super tight. Just snug. Never had one fall off or loosen up.
but, every time I had the dealer work...
finally got around to changing the plugs and, wow, that was easy!
easier than changing the oil. you don't got to mess around with the front/center jack point, finagle the splashguard off, and try not to spill oil everywhere.
took a total of 15 minutes. Spark plug torque is 22 Nm (16 ft/lb)...
my fingernails get caught on it sometimes and scratches it. Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP is like magic. makes it like new again. on a warm/hot day, rub some on and it will make it disappear in about 30 minutes. It absorbs into the leather and conditions it.
sounds crazy, but it does work on...
ordered some NGK 92411s from Rockauto today. they had the best prices. Also got a $5 TYC cabin air filter and a $11 Wix engine air filter. Beats paying $35 each for those filters from the dealer.
Spark plugs were $14.24 each. Local dealership wanted over $40 for each plug...
yea, idk what these people are on. the NVH is pretty noticeable and makes zero difference after "break-in". people just get used to the increased vibrations.
the best thing to do is to install a hidden kill switch. but even that can be bypassed if the thieves have enough time and knowledge.
they can also just drag it away or put it on a trailer.
i was considering adjusting my clutch pedal but after trying to maneuver my body to work down there and straining my neck and back, i gave up. at 6'3", with no lift, it just seems impossible. Probably would make it a lot easier to just remove the driver's seat if you got to work down there in...
give it time...
still waiting for mine to completely stop retracting so i can hopefully get it warrantied. wish it would hurry up and fail. it's so inconsistent that i think i'd have a problem getting them to warranty it. and i don't want to waste a $180 diag fee.
i would drive the absolute piss out of it 10-20k miles before the warranty expires. Engine trials, basically. that way, if it's going to fail, let it fail before the warranty is up.