Deposit placed, advice please

[TampaFL5]

I went to view and test a 25' blue Type R, its Hoblnda certified w 8200 miles. SI owner, about to step into the Type R game. This example had the red Honda shift know upgrade, Alcantara steering wheel and light up door sills ($1400 package).. Its in great condition. I have two questions please:

1) is a 7mm rear and 9mm front measurement for brake pads normal at 8200 miles? Thats like 35% left by my garbage math skills..? At this mileage, would this have been tracked?

2) This example seemingly felt softer than the first I had driven, which had 13k miles. Is it possible to like break Type R suspension or " soften it" through abise and/or other various components involved w handling at 8k miles to make it feel a little softer? Or am I just siking myself out bc this car is atrociously expensive?

I put a refundable deposit down but having pre purchase jitters today..

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[TypeRD]

If the 2nd car felt softer, it might have the ITS ADS module in it (or you simply had the suspension in the Comfort setting).

I know I’m being blunt, but if the car has warranty, then there’s no sense in worrying about how the previous owner drove it. There’s no way you’ll ever know. If it appears to be well maintained and has service records, that’s the only thing you can use to judge it by. If it continues to bug you, then save up and buy new.

 

[TampaFL5]

Ya, it is a certified Honda...it comes w a good warranty...but they missed a ding in their "185 point inspection " so I only have so much faith in that lol.

 

[22Si]

If the 2nd car felt softer, it might have the ITS ADS module in it (or you simply had the suspension in the Comfort setting).

I know I’m being blunt, but if the car has warranty, then there’s no sense in worrying about how the previous owner drove it. There’s no way you’ll ever know. If it appears to be well maintained and has service records, that’s the only thing you can use to judge it by. If it continues to bug you, then save up and buy new.

I agree but the problem is once you drive off and if the car was modified or jailbroken in tuned by the previous owner they don't check for that during their pre-inspection.

If you get jitters walk away, there are plenty unless youre getting a phenomenal deal.

 

[TypeRD]

I agree but the problem is once you drive off and if the car was modified or jailbroken in tuned by the previous owner they don't check for that during their pre-inspection.

If you get jitters walk away, there are plenty unless youre getting a phenomenal deal.

If they don’t check if the ECU is jailbroken, then request that they check it. You’re about to spend $40k+ on a used Type R. If they refuse to do this one easy thing, then walk away. That’s not the kind of customer service you want.

 

[TampaFL5]

So for this example, its $46,500 w 8200 miles, Honda certified. There are pther local examples w 13k for 45k and 1900 miles at 47k for reference. Rear pads are at 7mm, front at 9mm. Is this normal pad wear? Seems it'll need new rears by 12k and fronts by 15k. Google suggests this is early..? Idc if someone has driven the car as intended but being a former autocrosser, im not paying 46.5k for a car thats been autocrossed or tracked. Thats too much repeat abuse for me at this price. Ill request the ppi for tunes for sure. Any advice on what to look out for in the second test drive would be greatly appreciated!

Ps, id buy new but Tampa dealers are tacking on 5k to 10k all day long. Im personally not willing to pay 55k+ for this car, even though it outperforms som3 cars in that realm. Paying 46.5k for a used one has me overthinking the hell out of it tbh. Im putting 12k down and have 15k in equity on my trade, so id only be financing 20k. Im not broke but I haven't ever spent this much on a car, 25k max otherwise for my current 20' SI.

Am I think too much? Lol

 

[maranelloboy05]

Why not buy a brand new one for the same price out of state and ship it? I would never even consider a used one for more than $40k, the delta to new is just not worth it in any way. Have seen multiple recently for under MSRP even in some of the colder states.

 

[AspecR]

Do some leg work and buy a new one, new MY25s can be had for MSRP if you're willing to make some phone calls

 

[TampaFL5]

Ya , that is a solid point. Maybe I need to call dealers further out. Im not lazy, ill take a trip for new. Ill pay 50k for new max, but not 55k or 58k like they're asking, msrp is 47.5k. Its Blasphemy.

 

[maranelloboy05]

Bought mine from Indiana for MSRP, $1400 enclosed shipping to Texas. Did the whole deal over the phone, easy as pie. Car showed up a week after it arrived to the dealer.

 

[marcusm86]

Ya , that is a solid point. Maybe I need to call dealers further out. Im not lazy, ill take a trip for new. Ill pay 50k for new max, but not 55k or 58k like they're asking, msrp is 47.5k. Its Blasphemy.

you will find one - just look. they are still selling them at MSRP in St. Louis Missouri area.

 

[TypeRD]

To answer your question about brakes : Yes, the car will go thru breaks rather quickly even with just spirited driving. The rears will wear out significantly faster (because the car’s TCS uses the rear brakes when cornering). You can reduce day-to-day wear by turning off VSA (long pressing the VSA button). Or you can turn it off the completely via the pedal dance.

It’s possible someone autocrossed the car you’re considering. How do the tires look? That might be a more telling sign than the brakes.

 

[MoodySara]

If I was as nervous as you seem to be, I'd do as others have suggested and find a new one.
MSRP is not that hard to find. The '26s are starting to show up, so that should help you on leftover '25s.
Good luck.

 

[Agen2integra]

Personally, I would call around to multiple dealers to negotiate an MSRP deal. At the price point you're looking at, it would be better peace of mind. I bought my Type R at MSRP back in December after calling around. I didn't NEED the car, so I think that helped me in my negotiating. I had bad luck buying an Exo X MR years back, the transmission needed full replacement which was done under warranty, but was a pain in the neck. I told myself that if I ever buy another performance car it will have to be new. Best of luck in whatever you decide... Please note, if you're contacting dealers, actually call them, tell them what you want, see if they'll work with you. I've seen others on Facebook say that they texted the dealer to negotiate, I'm not sure that's an effective way.

 

[TampaFL5]

Thanks everyone for your advice. I probably sound annoying AF but just trying to get into the game in one peice lol. So I've got a dealer in Jacksonville willing to sell me a new blue 25 at 49.5k, and it has that $2k Honda package included in that (so its at the 47.5k msrp plus a stupid pkg that nobody wants).. Thing is, they're trying to make up for it on my trade offering 16.5k vs the 18.5k ive gotten elsewhere. GM wont budge further, up from an original 15k offer. Its a primo example 2020 SI w 65k, could pull 22k-24k at a dealer all day. Needs maybe a G in reconditioning max ( pads, oil, tranny fluid and brake fluid). Given its 2k off and this is still a relatively sharp deal vs other local offers (5k - 10k upcharge), yall think I should take it? I just know they're gonna bank thousands on my SI and it bothers me lol...but id be in a new blue Type R for 375/mth, which is my goal. I dont foresee this market softening, these will msrp at 50k like next year probs lol.

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