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Problem driving through water puddles - grind/buzz when I rev - have to restart the car to fix

Blindeye_03

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So driving home today I experienced this three times (And this is the 3rd time I have had this happen but the rain today was so hard that it caused it to happen more than once on my commute).

Never are any codes thrown or stored.

So after driving through a large puddle - I dont even have to hydroplane or experience any real grip loss, the car will make the sounds in the video and those sounds happen while normal driving in any gear and any time the RPM isnt at idle (but today it did happen at idle). It sounds like the factory skid plate is rattling loose or that the PRL RMM is no longer bolted in. Its coming from the transmission/engine area under the car. I can feel the buzz in my butt thorough the drivers seat. But once I turn the car off and on again the problem is solved, until I drive through another large/deep puddle. I can rev the car while its stopped (like in the video) and the problem also occurs - so in gear or not in gear... doesnt matter.

Honda cant pull any codes and until I geta scanner/logger I have no proof of anything going haywire. ChatGPT thinks its the speed sensor or something with revmatch.

Its definitely related to the electrical system but no idea what it is yet.

Im hoping someone else has had this stupid problem and or someone can shed some light and point me in the right direction.

I am going to buy a Innova 5610 soon to help track this down.
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marcusm86

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Thats wild.. no brake lights come on or anything? wondering if some abs shii is goin on idk lol.. any mods?
info that might help someone;
does the noise only goes away when you shut it off, or how long does it do that/is there another way to make it go away - if you speed up, slow down, hit the brakes, turn - does it make any changes in the noise?
 

AZCWTypeR

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Sounds like the ABS traction/stability control intervention on my old FR-S. Check ABS plugs and wiring. Also check your tire pressures.

My FR-S would engage ABS stability control around faster corners with non-performance Blizzaks fitted, due to the increased yaw angle from these soft sidewall tires. The tire treads weren't slipping. Adding a few psi to the rear tires mitigated the problem.

BTW non-performance Blizzaks are the best winter tires overall on snow/ice, and I've had about everything over the years. I took the wheels separately to the tire shops, otherwise they wouldn't fit non-performance snows on faster cars.

While you're at it, check the RMM bolt torques and the fasteners on the under-tray. I have a WOT cooling plate which has some reasonance on cold starts, but I never hear it once driving.
 
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Blindeye_03

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Thats wild.. no brake lights come on or anything? wondering if some abs shii is goin on idk lol.. any mods?
info that might help someone;
does the noise only goes away when you shut it off, or how long does it do that/is there another way to make it go away - if you speed up, slow down, hit the brakes, turn - does it make any changes in the noise?
I agree.. and no, no lights illuminated at any point. The ABS shouldnt affect the car when I am stopped on the shoulder revving in gear with the clutch depressed or with the car in neutral.

The first time this happened months and months ago I didnt experience it once stopped so I initially thought it was the differential or ABS/speed sensors doing wacky things.

The sound while idling and when revving goes away immediately and fully once I turn the car off and on again.

And the sound/vibration does seem to be less at higher RPMs but when this is happening I am so scared to test out the whole rev range.. it sounds so bad lol. Braking might make it better for only a moment. I did try that yesterday briefly to stab the brakes.
 

blugenfl5

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This happens to me every time I drive in heavy rain.
It started happening after installing a rmm and an apexi catback exhaust. Quite nerve wracking when on the highway and the shifter starts buzzing. I saw that it could be water pooling around the rear motor mount but not sure if that’s the issue.
 


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Blindeye_03

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Sounds like the ABS traction/stability control intervention on my old FR-S. Check ABS plugs and wiring. Also check your tire pressures.

My FR-S would engage ABS stability control around faster corners with non-performance Blizzaks fitted, due to the increased yaw angle from these soft sidewall tires. The tire treads weren't slipping. Adding a few psi to the rear tires mitigated the problem.

BTW non-performance Blizzaks are the best winter tires overall on snow/ice, and I've had about everything over the years. I took the wheels separately to the tire shops, otherwise they wouldn't fit non-performance snows on faster cars.

While you're at it, check the RMM bolt torques and the fasteners on the under-tray. I have a WOT cooling plate which has some reasonance on cold starts, but I never hear it once driving.
Yeah I thought maybe something was getting stuck after maybe ABS activated? but yesterday I didnt feel ABS at all - traction was a bit hairy because of the amount of rain that fell in such a short time. Everyone was driving slow and I didnt hydroplane or anything.

I have my summer Michelins on with my 18s (275/35-18) that have roughly 15k miles on them. Pressures are all fine too.

I should probably check the RMM bolts - good call there. The skid plate should all be tight AF as I just did an oil change and nearly stripped the screws under the RMM (I bought new ones to install soon and anti-seize). But I dont see how that could cause this either... so while driving, the tires slip/spin and somehow causes a piece of metal to hit a weird resonance frequency that it normally wouldnt experience and that continues even after the car is pulled over and no longer driving? But once I turn the car off and back on again the piece of metal is no longer vibrating or anything?
 
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Blindeye_03

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This happens to me every time I drive in heavy rain.
It started happening after installing a rmm and an apexi catback exhaust. Quite nerve wracking when on the highway and the shifter starts buzzing. I saw that it could be water pooling around the rear motor mount but not sure if that’s the issue.
Ok I feel better that youre suffering with me then LOL, I am joking. Have you figured out whats causing it on yours? My exhaust is stock minus removal of the smaller resonator.

Mods - PRL RMM, Acuity shifter assembly, front resonator removal.

I actually ordered a Wunderladen Racing Street RMM today - I have felt like the PRL is too soft on the FL5... I like some NVH (the buzzing issue and what is not normal NVH and shouldnt be there obviously). Which one do you have?
 
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blugenfl5

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Ok I feel better that youre suffering with me then LOL, I am joking. Have you figured out whats causing it on yours? My exhaust is stock minus removal of the smaller resonator.

Mods - PRL RMM, Acuity shifter assembly, front resonator removal.

I actually ordered a Wunderladen Racing Street RMM today - I have felt like the PRL is too soft on the FL5... I like some NVH (the buzzing issue and what is not normal NVH and shouldnt be there obviously). Which one do you have?
I also have the prl rmm. The nvh is pretty bad. Stiffness i think its fine for me since it is my daily. But the buzzing during the rain is definitely annoying, do you also experience that the throttle doesnt feel as crisp.
 
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Blindeye_03

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I also have the prl rmm. The nvh is pretty bad. Stiffness i think its fine for me since it is my daily. But the buzzing during the rain is definitely annoying, do you also experience that the throttle doesnt feel as crisp.
I do yeah - its so weird revving the car when its going on... There is little to zero NVH otherwise until the moment the car freaks out. Like youre driving over the rumble things on the side of a highway.
 

marcusm86

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I have the street Wunderladen rmm and there was very little if any vibration noise increase after install or even now.. I think pulling the exhaust fuse and putting on a front pipe might have added more NVH than the rmm..
 


J_D

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Sounds like vibration/resonance being transmitted through various parts. Modified components lose the dampening effects OE parts have
 

marcusm86

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Do you have the OEM rmm to swap back in to test? I feel like had read somewhere of people having issues with their exhaust hangers but i thought that was on the FK8 - maybe make sure they are all secure too anyway? All of these things seem like they would not be resolved by just turning your car off and on again - this part confuses me and makes me think its abs... I'm interested in what you find and hope its an easy fix.
 
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Blindeye_03

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Do you have the OEM rmm to swap back in to test? I feel like had read somewhere of people having issues with their exhaust hangers but i thought that was on the FK8 - maybe make sure they are all secure too anyway? All of these things seem like they would not be resolved by just turning your car off and on again - this part confuses me and makes me think its abs... I'm interested in what you find and hope its an easy fix.
That’s the part that throws me off so much is that turning the car off and all immediately fixes the problem. And that the problem exists even while stopped.

I don’t have the original rear motor mount, but I am getting the new amount today and plan to install it Saturday or Sunday. I have been wanting to get rid of the PRL RMM.

I never had these issues with my FK8 - it also had a PRL RMM.
 

blugenfl5

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Please keep us updated, if thats the case I will also switch. Thanks
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