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latole
Civic Lx 2018 Manual , Civic LX 2016 Manual
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2017
- Threads
- 8
- Messages
- 1,108
- Reaction score
- 39
- Location
- Vaudreuil,Quebec ,Canada
- Vehicle(s)
- Civic Lx 2018 Manual , Civic LX 2016 Manual
Good luck for this difficult job, and I wish you success.
cwtechshiz
Member
I appreciate this post. Takes effort to post your own mistake and solutions. Hope it lasts dude. Would you do it again? lol I've been extra procrastinating installing my headstuds
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Domo_K
Member
- Thread starter
- #20
Thank you..
I would do it again in heart beat.. I have learned so much about my car now that I can change almost any part, barring transmissin job but eventually I want to do that too. Still running strong btw. I have driven distances over and hour and I can mash on the pedal a bit. I have not taken her to redline yet.
I did do this without any guarantees that I would not be paying that 12k the shop wanted but I look to be in the clear. My advice to you if you wanted to do the 1 by 1 method. Cut reliefs into an old head bolt and use it as a thread chaser. I just tried to spray with brake cleaner over and over. If the crud is too thick, it will not come out and take your time. If it doesn't go down by hand easily, do not force it like I did.
Also make sure to lube only on the top of the washer under the nut. The textured side that bites into the head should be dry. If you start, good luck. Once you remove one head bolt, you could be going past the point of no return but, I think you could just put the old one back if you want to do it temporarily. I recommend torquing to 65ft lbs instead of ARP's 70ft lbs. You could run the risk of ripping out the threads anyway if you are off slightly. You are playing at the edge at 70ft lbs, and if you want 70 then go with a digital torque wrench and go slow.
Last thing I will say is if God forbid it does happen, I hope you can be resourceful because once shops and dealerships smell blood in the water, they are taking you for a ride. They will have you by the balls at that point. I refused to let them have that satisfaction.
DM me if you need any help but I am sure you are more than good. I don't even know much compared to these guys here lol.
Stanleywinthrop
Senior Member
"Cut reliefs into an old head bolt and use it as a thread chaser."
Can you elaborate on this more? Thanks
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Domo_K
Member
- Thread starter
- #22
Okay, so basically take a grinder and cut 4 even spaced lines down the threads. This creates pockets to clean out any gunk out that is stuck down in the block. You want to run these in and out to get trapped liquid and garbage out, spray brake cleaner, blow it out and repeat until clean and the studs can run down easily with no resistance.
When I get home, I will try to find the old head bolts and take pictures. I should still have them all.
Stanleywinthrop
Senior Member
Awesome thanks man. I assume you could do it with a Dremel as well?
Stanleywinthrop
Senior Member
I wanted to post in this thread to give a shout out to Domo who has been very helpful to me when I did this project. His advice was spot on and although I was lucky that all my studs went in with no problems whatsoever, but I was prepared to deal with debris in the hole because of Domo's advice.
However, I did screw something else up myself. I'm going to expose my idiocy here, in the hope others will see this thread and not repeat my mistake. Before reinstalling the HPFP, check the cam lobe! The flat part MUST be facing the HPFP spring! If you attempt to hulk the fuel pump down on a lobe peak, you will strip out the threads on the HPFP base. $100 and a slightly turned crank later the HPFP goes in quite easily. My other piece of advice is to go ahead and unscrew the lower fuel pipe off the HPFP before taking it off. It takes a 19 mm box wrench and isn't that difficult. This will make taking the HPFP off easier. Below is the graphic from the service manual showing the correct position of the lobe for reinstalling the HPFP.
However, I did screw something else up myself. I'm going to expose my idiocy here, in the hope others will see this thread and not repeat my mistake. Before reinstalling the HPFP, check the cam lobe! The flat part MUST be facing the HPFP spring! If you attempt to hulk the fuel pump down on a lobe peak, you will strip out the threads on the HPFP base. $100 and a slightly turned crank later the HPFP goes in quite easily. My other piece of advice is to go ahead and unscrew the lower fuel pipe off the HPFP before taking it off. It takes a 19 mm box wrench and isn't that difficult. This will make taking the HPFP off easier. Below is the graphic from the service manual showing the correct position of the lobe for reinstalling the HPFP.
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