Unexpected shoulder wear on front tires.

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I recently went to Discount Tire for a rotation on my #9215 If you’re familiar with Discount, you know they have some rules about where the better tires go that they’re unwilling to bend on. About 13,000 miles they said the shoulder wear on the front was too much to move them to the back.

I saw what they were seeing but I’d say it’s minimal. This car is strictly a daily driver and I’ve never hit anything to cause the alignment to be off.

Has anyone else noticed shoulder wear?

I do have to do a tight 90° left turn to pull into my garage.

Thanks.
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AZCWTypeR

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For around $200, you can buy a hydraulic jack, 22mm socket, breaker bar and torque wrench at Harbor Freight or similar.
You only need to lift the front jacking point to get both front and rear wheels off the ground. It takes about 1/2 hour to rotate all tires front-back/ back-front.
 

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toe and camber but you wont know unless they put the lasers on and see what the specs are. also never heard of anyone calling their car by their government issued number.
 

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Most likely too much front toe.
Zero toe is a good goal.
 
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For around $200, you can buy a hydraulic jack, 22mm socket, breaker bar and torque wrench at Harbor Freight or similar.
You only need to lift the front jacking point to get both front and rear wheels off the ground. It takes about 1/2 hour to rotate all tires front-back/ back-front.
For around $200, you can buy a hydraulic jack, 22mm socket, breaker bar and torque wrench at Harbor Freight or similar.
You only need to lift the front jacking point to get both front and rear wheels off the ground. It takes about 1/2 hour to rotate all tires front-back/ back-front.
I have all that stuff but I need low profile ramps to get the jack under the car. Also, how does that work without also lifting the rear? Thanks for responding.
 


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Yeah. That seems weird. It’s actually the Tyre R number.
 
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Most likely too much front toe.
Zero toe is a good goal.
Assuming it was correct from the factory, Is it normal to have too much front toe (already) from normal use or is it that way from the factory for some performance reason at the expense of tire wear.

Thanks.
 

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The spec range is -0.08° to +0.08°, each.
That's a big range. Anything in that range is considered 'in spec', both at the factory and most alignment shops.
Zero toe is right in the center of that 'spec' range.
 

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I have all that stuff but I need low profile ramps to get the jack under the car. Also, how does that work without also lifting the rear? Thanks for responding.

you lift the site jack point of the car enough that both the front and rear wheel are in the air.
 

AZCWTypeR

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I bought a low profile jack when I had an S2000 and it works fine on the CTR. No ramps needed.
When lifting a front jack point (under side mirrors, not center point), the rear tire will liftoff once the front tire is a few inches off the ground.
 


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I had no idea that you could lift both wheels from one spot on the side. Thanks!
I bought a low profile jack when I had an S2000 and it works fine on the CTR. No ramps needed.
When lifting a front jack point (under side mirrors, not center point), the rear tire will liftoff once the front tire is a few inches off the ground.
 

MoodySara

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You can lift both wheels even with the jack that comes with the donut spare kit.
In the rain. In the dirt beside the road.
Ask me how I know.
 

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Assuming outside shoulder, is the car driven spiritedly or tracked?
 
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Assuming outside shoulder, is the car driven spiritedly or tracked?
Yes. Outside shoulder. Just street driven. I do do a low speed full left turn going into the garage and full right backing out.
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