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walnut

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Wanted to share a couple things I've done to my car over the last few weeks:

Overland shift boot
11th Gen Honda Civic What did you do to your FL5 today? PXL_20240216_023624477.MP
11th Gen Honda Civic What did you do to your FL5 today? PXL_20240216_023654070.MP
11th Gen Honda Civic What did you do to your FL5 today? PXL_20240216_023638634.MP

The quality of the boot is great, but the material is pretty stiff, I wish it was more relaxed so it would drape properly. Also I have the Seeker shift knob and boot collar, and the fitment with the boot collar doesn't sit quite right, it's especially noticeable in 1st gear as shown in the 3rd picture. I was thinking I could take a steamer to it to try and soften it up? Overall I'm happy with the quality though and I've ordered the Remark CF center console trim piece to finish up my shifter area.

Paint corrected and ceramic coated
11th Gen Honda Civic What did you do to your FL5 today? PXL_20240216_020642326.MP

11th Gen Honda Civic What did you do to your FL5 today? PXL_20240212_144932230.MP

Got this done at A-Plus Tint and PPF, the results are really great, I didn't really see much wrong with the paint before but now the paint almost seems to glimmer, when I was walking back to my car in the first pic I really stopped for a moment cause of how my car looked in the lighting haha. I can't help but feel I paid too much for the paint correction and ceramic coating ($2200 ?) looking at how much other people paid for similar services, but I guess we'll see if it's worth it over the next few years. (Also just FYI I didn't park the car in the second picture LOL)

Acuity shifter cable bushing
I don't have any pictures of the install because I was too lazy, but overall it went smoothly. It was my first time taking anything out of the engine bay so I was pretty anxious beforehand, but I followed an install video by Lui Rivera on youtube and it helped out a bunch. I did have one mistake where I cross threaded the plastic cap connected to the negative battery cable and can't quite get it off now. Anyways after the install the shifter feel going into gears is a nice improvement, it feels a bit firmer and confident going into gears, but it's pretty subtle, so I sometimes don't really notice it. Along with the shifter base bushings I'm pretty happy with the shifter feel for now, once Acuity releases their short-shifter I may end up getting that too.

11th Gen Honda Civic What did you do to your FL5 today? PXL_20240216_020642326.MP
 
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Yorkman1

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Finally got around to installing my centerpoint speaker. I also installed the OEM rain guards. It was much colder this weekend than expected so I haven’t been out in the garage much.
11th Gen Honda Civic What did you do to your FL5 today? IMG_7622
11th Gen Honda Civic What did you do to your FL5 today? IMG_7623
11th Gen Honda Civic What did you do to your FL5 today? IMG_7624
11th Gen Honda Civic What did you do to your FL5 today? IMG_7625
11th Gen Honda Civic What did you do to your FL5 today? IMG_7626
 

Ultimateone

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Finally got around to installing my centerpoint speaker. I also installed the OEM rain guards. It was much colder this weekend than expected so I haven’t been out in the garage much.
IMG_7623.jpeg
Wait is a center swap worth it?
 

Jester04

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Finally got around to installing my centerpoint speaker. I also installed the OEM rain guards. It was much colder this weekend than expected so I haven’t been out in the garage much.
IMG_7622.jpeg
IMG_7623.jpeg
IMG_7624.jpeg
IMG_7625.jpeg
IMG_7626.jpeg
I’m going to have to drive up to you to help me with the audio upgrades.?
 


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Icehawk

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Wait is a center swap worth it?
Not really? I mean I can tell it's better than the OEM but it doesn't add a lot of volume even when using Centerpoint, it does clean up Siri, nav, etc vocals a bit. It's pretty easy & cheap to swap though.
 
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Icehawk

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Finished my "OEM+" audio upgrade by replacing all but the C pillar drivers with upgraded units.

All drivers except sub are from CDT Audio:

Front doors ES-6.2 (2ohm)
Front tweeters ES-1200iS, 4.7uf cap added
Center ES-3
Rear doors ES-5
Rear tweeters DRT-25, 4.7uf cap added
Subwoofer Rockford Fosgate PS3D4-8
C pillars - STOCK
From a D+ to a B- IMO.

Replicating this would run ~$800-1,200. My one recommendation is to skip the sub or use a much cheaper driver, I got very little return on that $180 driver.

I live in Miami and go to some local events, happy to demo it to anyone.

MORE DETAILED THREAD HERE.
 

Jester04

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Finished my "OEM+" audio upgrade by replacing all but the C pillar drivers with upgraded units.



From a D+ to a B- IMO.

Replicating this would run ~$800-1,200. My one recommendation is to skip the sub or use a much cheaper driver, I got very little return on that $180 driver.

I live in Miami and go to some local events, happy to demo it to anyone.

MORE DETAILED THREAD HERE.
Let me know I would love to hear it. I’m in Miami
 

Clark_Kent

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Finished my "OEM+" audio upgrade by replacing all but the C pillar drivers with upgraded units.



From a D+ to a B- IMO.

Replicating this would run ~$800-1,200. My one recommendation is to skip the sub or use a much cheaper driver, I got very little return on that $180 driver.

I live in Miami and go to some local events, happy to demo it to anyone.

MORE DETAILED THREAD HERE.
Nice work. What gets this setup to an "A"?
 


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Icehawk

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Nice work. What gets this setup to an "A"?
Amp(s), processor, real subwoofer enclosure? I figure at least another $2k or more. I mean we're playing streams or MP3s over BT here so a true "A" may not even be achievable.

I think if I amped my current sub setup it might help push it a little higher into a solid B, I might do this down the road but that would be my limit.
 

Yorkman1

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Finished my "OEM+" audio upgrade by replacing all but the C pillar drivers with upgraded units.



From a D+ to a B- IMO.

Replicating this would run ~$800-1,200. My one recommendation is to skip the sub or use a much cheaper driver, I got very little return on that $180 driver.

I live in Miami and go to some local events, happy to demo it to anyone.

MORE DETAILED THREAD HERE.
Glad to hear it’s done. Now drive for a week and let them break in.
 

superporpoise

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Finished my "OEM+" audio upgrade by replacing all but the C pillar drivers with upgraded units.



From a D+ to a B- IMO.

Replicating this would run ~$800-1,200. My one recommendation is to skip the sub or use a much cheaper driver, I got very little return on that $180 driver.

I live in Miami and go to some local events, happy to demo it to anyone.

MORE DETAILED THREAD HERE.
Sorry if I missed it, but did you do any sound deadening? I imagine that would go a long way to making any setup sound better since the stereo is competing with so much road/tire noise.
 
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Icehawk

Icehawk

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Sorry if I missed it, but did you do any sound deadening? I imagine that would go a long way to making any setup sound better since the stereo is competing with so much road/tire noise.
I have not as yet - the front doors are way too sealed up really to do much there. I do have some material I could use in the trunk. My experience is that it doesn't do a lot, there was a guy on YT who stripped his car down and did some quality insulating. He ended up with like a whopping 2db drop. I do want to deaden the sub box though which might have some positive result.
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