P0101 DTC

[MrBBQ]

Hope someone can help figure out this annoying P0101 DTC that randomly pops up from time to time. It's annoying when the CEL pops up during a drive and the car goes into Limp mode. List of mods are PRL HVI (with AEM Dryflow filter), Carbon Inlet Pipe, Intercooler and Charge Pipes. Not currently tuned but planning to. I have checked for air leaks with a pressurized smoke machine, no leaks were found. Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner. Checked fuel trims but still learning how to read it. Looks like the LTFT is positive so I'm running lean. PRL did state that their products do not require a tune but I am running a different filter. Anybody running the AEM Dryflow ever pop this code? This code did started popping up after the Dryflow install, so not sure if it's coincidental. I don't have the PRL filter anymore to place back. You would think the OEM filter is even more restrictive than the AEM Dryflow. Would a tune banished this P0101?

I just noticed Hondata has a Jailbreak Tour not too far from me tomorrow 3/22 at the Lake Elsinore Honda Meet. Unfortunately cannot make it. Would anybody know if they still offer a discount if preregistered for their Jailbreak Tour? I have heard they don't anymore.

 

[jtlctr]

It seems likely to be an air leak somewhere with the high positive fuel trims. How did you do the smoke test? I've never done one, so I'm not sure how it works exactly. I'm wondering if any parts of the intake system were not part of the test. I'm guessing you've already double checked all the connections with the intake tubing, intercooler, and charge pipes? Maybe a slight leak where the MAF sensor sits in the housing? Also worth checking the wiring terminals at the MAF sensor.
I doubt the air filter is your issue, but I wouldn't swear to that.

 

[22Si]

Per you, code started popping after new filter install. Id double check every thing that was removed and worst case, you'll have to swap back to a PRL filter to see if the new filter caused the issue.

Also see this

https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/throwing-p0101-error-code.73027/

 

[ZackeyTypeR]

Daaamn I was just thinking about getting that filter too. Following for an update…

 

[Ktrw]

I went to the Hondata jailbreak tour in Seattle and I definitely did not get a discount and I preregistered. Saw people online saying they got discounts going to the jailbreak events but yeah for everyone at the event it was a full price flashpro and unlock lol $1000+.

 

[22Si]

I went to the Hondata jailbreak tour in Seattle and I definitely did not get a discount and I preregistered. Saw people online saying they got discounts going to the jailbreak events but yeah for everyone at the event it was a full price flashpro and unlock lol $1000+.

Whats the current total cost and how do you like it?

 

[Ktrw]

Whats the current total cost and how do you like it?

Was like $50 pre-register and $1020 the day of the event. I guess I was hoping by going to the jailbreak event you would just pay for the flashpro ($800ish), which some people have indicated in posts online in the past.

For the tune, I actually liked the way the Hondata base map felt, but I'm in the process of getting an e-tune by @D-RobIMW . I did get a battery tender for when I'm flashing the car because I don't want to brick my ECU and they're sensitive to voltage. If you drive your car more or do it after a drive when it's nice and charged you don't have to worry but my car has been sitting for a bit lately during the week.

 

[22Si]

Was like $50 pre-register and $1020 the day of the event. I guess I was hoping by going to the jailbreak event you would just pay for the flashpro ($800ish), which some people have indicated in posts online in the past.

For the tune, I actually liked the way the Hondata base map felt, but I'm in the process of getting an e-tune by @D-RobIMW . I did get a battery tender for when I'm flashing the car because I don't want to brick my ECU and they're sensitive to voltage. If you drive your car more or do it after a drive when it's nice and charged you don't have to worry but my car has been sitting for a bit lately during the week.

Thank you, yes the cost is the flashpro plus whatever unlock fee is. They apply deposit towards that price.

I did think that if you pre-registered advance with the deposit you get a certain discount like $50 off or something

 

[MrBBQ]

Daaamn I was just thinking about getting that filter too. Following for an update…

I have my doubts it's the filter. Other people are running the AEM Dryflow with no issues. Still makes plenty of whooosh noises VS the OEM filter that is thick and makes no whoosh noises. I'll be checking and monitoring the MAF airflow reading. Hoping it's just a faulty MAF. The MAF connectors and pins look ok as well.

I went to the Hondata jailbreak tour in Seattle and I definitely did not get a discount and I preregistered. Saw people online saying they got discounts going to the jailbreak events but yeah for everyone at the event it was a full price flashpro and unlock lol $1000+.

That sucks. If they're no longer offering discounts, don't see the point of waiting and driving to one. Don't have to send the ECU out when there are options currently to remotely unlock the ECU. Tune here I come.

 

[Ktrw]

That sucks. If they're no longer offering discounts, don't see the point of waiting and driving to one. Don't have to send the ECU out when there are options currently to remotely unlock the ECU. Tune here I come.

Yeah with remote unlocks being a thing now, I wouldn't wait to go to an event unless you want to for whatever reason. You have to wait around for people ahead of you to get unlocked so it can take a while.

A deposit toward the total isn't a discount so I'm not sure you really gain anything. They're just taking the money to hold your spot and get an idea for how many flashpros they need.

 

[MrBBQ]

It seems likely to be an air leak somewhere with the high positive fuel trims. How did you do the smoke test? I've never done one, so I'm not sure how it works exactly. I'm wondering if any parts of the intake system were not part of the test. I'm guessing you've already double checked all the connections with the intake tubing, intercooler, and charge pipes? Maybe a slight leak where the MAF sensor sits in the housing? Also worth checking the wiring terminals at the MAF sensor.
I doubt the air filter is your issue, but I wouldn't swear to that.

Per you, code started popping after new filter install. Id double check every thing that was removed and worst case, you'll have to swap back to a PRL filter to see if the new filter caused the issue.

Also see this

https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/throwing-p0101-error-code.73027/

The leak smoke test is easy to do, just need a smoke leak detector machine. They range in price depending on how fancy you want to go. The one I got was $60, can adjust the pressure flow rate, but does require an air compressor. There's an inflatable bulb that plugs up an entry point (I chose right after the HVI), and then the smoke machine attaches to the inflated bulb. Turn on the smoke machine and pressurized air with smoke enters the entire intake system. Then check along all tubes and hoses part of the intake system for visible signs of smoke. I checked and didn't see any signs of smoke. Already checked many times for loose hoses/clamps. I'm assuming there's no leak. Already gave away my PRL HVI filter so there's no going back to that. Cleared the DTC, let's see when P0101 pops up again. . Going to try a different MAF sensor next.

 

[champ_white_FL5]

The leak smoke test is easy to do, just need a smoke leak detector machine. They range in price depending on how fancy you want to go. The one I got was $60, can adjust the pressure flow rate, but does require an air compressor. There's an inflatable bulb that plugs up an entry point (I chose right after the HVI), and then the smoke machine attaches to the inflated bulb. Turn on the smoke machine and pressurized air with smoke enters the entire intake system. Then check along all tubes and hoses part of the intake system for visible signs of smoke. I checked and didn't see any signs of smoke. Already checked many times for loose hoses/clamps. I'm assuming there's no leak. Already gave away my PRL HVI filter so there's no going back to that. Cleared the DTC, let's see when P0101 pops up again. . Going to try a different MAF sensor next.

Loosen the filter and rotate it 180°. Could be turbulent air coming through the filter and throwing off the MAF. It's unlikely, but an easy and free thing to try. I've had turbulent air flow coming through a filter cause the car to stall and throw that exact code. Swapped filters and it went away.

 

[MrBBQ]

Loosen the filter and rotate it 180°. Could be turbulent air coming through the filter and throwing off the MAF. It's unlikely, but an easy and free thing to try. I've had turbulent air flow coming through a filter cause the car to stall and throw that exact code. Swapped filters and it went away.

I will definitely try that this weekend! Thanks for the tip, never thought about that.

Today I checked the MAF readings at different RPM's (idle, 2x, 3x). From what I researched, idle MAF readings should be about the displacement of the motor. Double the idle rpm, double the MAF readings. Triple the idle rpm, triple the MAF readings. At the different rpms, I got slightly 0.5 - 0.6 higher MAF readings. Not sure if that's normal for our FL5's but at least I have a baseline of my current setup. I'll compare it to my cousin's FL5 later this week. He has the PRL HVI and titanium inlet.

 

[FL5CW]

Daaamn I was just thinking about getting that filter too. Following for an update…

Ive been running the filter for a year. Zero issues with engine lights.

 

[champ_white_FL5]

Ive been running the filter for a year. Zero issues with engine lights.

Any dust or bypass issues? The seal had me a bit iffy on the AEM since it's slightly oversized.

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