I think the first turbo upgrade should be the quicker spooling option vs. a lazier one. I like the idea of a 310-330whp, 300wtq capable turbo (on pump 93) that hits peak TQ around 700 rpm later than the OEM turbo. It should keep the OEM rods happy, there's no need for fuel system upgrade, and...
Megan Racing is 2.3" vs. PRL full 3". If you have the PRL downpipe/frontpipe combo already it makes sense to keep it full 3" all the way through. If you just want the frontpipe back section you likely wont see any difference between the two, or even stock for that matter.
It's weird, we've had two days in the 80's this week, and the stick has completely disappeared for me since the warm up. I'm wondering it the car has magically fixed itself or it's something temperature dependent?
I did very briefly idle with the AC on and it had less vibration compared to the WL insert. I will reserve any more comments on idling with AC till it gets warmer and I get more time on the mount.
The install on the motor mount was pretty simple and straightforward. I used a set of Rhino Ramps to get the car elevated, and did the install on my back. You need to remove the undertray which is really simple, 4x Phillips head screws, and 4x 1/4 turn fasteners. The mount is held in place by a...
I pre-ordered the PRL rear motor mount in September 2022 and received it at the end of March 2023
So I got the PRL rear motor mount installed this afternoon and took it for a 20 minute test drive. As a primer, I've had a few different vehicles with polyurethane motor mount inserts, Including...
So I got the PRL rear motor mount installed this afternoon and took it for a 20 minute test drive. As a primer, I've had a few different vehicles with polyurethane motor mount inserts, Including the FE1 Si. I was running a 10th gen Whiteline polyurethane insert in the stock motor mount prior to...
Well I did get the motor mount via UPS this afternoon. It looks really good, super well machined and is actually pretty hefty. I might have a free moment to get it installed tomorrow afternoon, if so I'll post my thoughts and impressions on it.
My Si has the sticky steering issue too. Popped up at around 2k miles on the odometer. IMO so far I don't think it's a safety issue, more of an annoyance than anything. I'm gonna wait till Honda has a reliable and worthwhile warranty repair vs just throwing in a new rack and having the same...
If the silicone cap on the lower charge pipe is loose you have a boost leak which I'm pretty sure would lead to a a CEL. Go back and check that cap and make sure its done up correctly. The upper aluminum cap really wouldn't do anything if it was loose, or not even there.
The OEM CTR clutch has a larger diameter so for similar pedal pressure, it can hold a lot more TQ. You can for sure get a OEM style replacement clutch that works with the OEM 11th gen SMF and will hold more TQ than stock. The downside is that it will have a lot more pedal pressure than a...
I have just under 3k miles on the clutch currently without any issues. I've been running on the Phearable 1.5R map, and installed the PRL HV downpipe and front pipe. No clutch slippage and the car runs great. The car to chirps 3rd gear pretty hard on the stock all season tires.
You could have gotten a Sprint P08 filter for about half the price. Sprint produces these filters for Spoon and just puts a Spoon logo on them. And these filters are great to clean. Basically blow them out the opposite direction of flow with compressed air, then put it back in.
Interesting. Did you not consider the Genesis Brembo retrofit BBK? Its probably around the $600 mark all in if you look hard enough. You would need a new set of wheels or a set of wheel spacers to clear the calipers though.
I Just installed a set of the Whiteline Performance lower, rear control arm bushings. The install went super smoothly, no issues. I just put the car on ramps and dropped the rear of the undertray to gain access to the bushings. The bushing inserts are a super tight press fit into the OEM...
OEM JDM FL1 Hatch
F: 2.7kgf/mm, 155in/lb
R: 2.8kgf/mm, 156in/lb
OEM USDM Si
F: 2.7kgf/mm, 155in/lb
R: 5.7kgf/mm, 320in/lb
Spoon Sports FL1 springs
F: 3.4kgf/mm, 190in/lb
R: 3.4kgf/mm, 190in/lb
If you care much about spring rates I probably wouldn't do the Spoon springs. The front rates...
Switching your MTF can help, also maybe try giving your clutch slave cylinder a bleed. If there happens to be some air in the clutch line it can cause your clutch to not disengage fully during shifts and you can sometimes get a slight grind and or hard shifting.