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Limited demand + supplier complications led to it being a product dropped from the catalog unfortunately.

Tuning via Hondata would allow you to customize boost by gear as desired. They also give you advanced traction control functionality that works better than the OEM control. Techniques like this are what allow 500whp+ FL5s and DE5s to be usable on the street.

I can confirm that this product was discontinued and that all inventory has been exhausted. I'm not aware of any dealers that would have any on hand but you may get lucky. Or perhaps someone here that bought a set but no longer needs them for some reason. Good luck on your hunt!

I think you are in the ballpark. I would not use the Kuro+ on 91 only.

There are some good answers above, but to confirm, there are limited gains to be had when upgrading the HPFP if you don't also upgrade the injectors. In most all cases I would recommend doing both or neither of them.

Always good to see a happy ending! I know it was not all smiles and laughs along the way but good on you for keeping your head up in a not so fun situation. With the Exedy Stage 1 kit and a bit more knowledge now - it should be bulletproof!

"I heard that the stock rods can only handle 400whp?" - Thankfully this is not true. We are seeing stock internal builds reaching the ballpark of 600whp pretty regularly these days. "The KURO (not +) with FBO and intercooler is around 450whp-475whp with stock fuel system." - Also not true...

27WON has one US dealer beyond themselves, and that’s us. :D The Kuro+ has been very popular and for good reason. We cleared the majority of our Kuro+ backorders last week. My best advice is to order one and secure your place in line, assuming you have not already. Supply was dry over the summer...

Yes we do. Checkout Derek Robinson at Innovative Motorworks in PA. :thumbsup:

Did you install it with the FL5 factory valve controller, or their on/off style controller? I much prefer it with the factory controller.

I'm pretty shocked to hear that because the Hybrid Racing system is super chill in my car. May I ask which downpipe you are using it with?

If I'm honest I've never removed the ECU to install a PRL FL5/DE5 intake so I'm not sure why people that say that. My tip is to loosen the the bracket, install duct, re-secure the bracket.

Glad to help! :D

Nope, these parts are both designed to work seamlessly with the factory MAF calibration, no tune is required for use of these modifications. Thanks for checking us out!

This is correct.

Small update: The Cobb goods arrived today :) But an incompatibility was realized :( As to be expected, the Cobb intake is designed for use with the factory inlet pipe and it is not compatible with an aftermarket inlet pipe. On our car we are using the aftermarket inlet pipe required by the...

Putting together the hardware would not be too bad, but you'd still need software to get anything out of it. I'm not sure if KTuner or Hondata either offer any support for flex fuel programming for that engine.

Buyer beware is all I can say. It's a very uncertain time with all of this going on and consumers and retailers are both getting hit by surprise regularly because the situation keeps changing and the fees are unclear. (it's not "just the tariff")

Yes, it likely would throw a code. If you are up for the challenge you may can get the de-fouler dialed in to work around it but it's not really an easy thing to adjust once installed in the car. Our shop car makes ~575whp with our catted downpipe. No CEL and no smell. Even with catless I'm...

My bet is that the old steering wheel was off the same amount, you just did not notice it until you installed a steering wheel with a line on it. I would not suspect that you damaged anything. Your front tie rod ends could be adjusted to straighten that wheel out all the way, if desired.