Aftermarket Radiator Options

[MSUGeoman]

Just started some Google-fu to see if there are options out there but all I’m seeing is high flow oil pumps so far, if anyone else knows of an option, let us know.

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[Jester04]

Just started some Google-fu to see if there are options out there but all I’m seeing is high flow oil pumps so far, if anyone else knows of an option, let us know.

No high flow pumps for coolant. You will be fine the way it is. Upgraded radiator and the oil cooler will work for most applications with a cool down lap here and there until the market matures more. Remember to remove your hood rain guard.

 

[Jester04]

Based on feedback from the Thailand and Malaysia circuits:
Multiple channel tank radiator = good
Multi-channel tank radiator + Low temperature thermostat = Very good
General road driving sprint:
Multiple channel tank radiator = Very good

What I will do is test them both back to back with the upgraded thermostat so we can get an apple to apple comparison.

 

[matttheazn]

What I will do is test them both back to back with the upgraded thermostat so we can get an apple to apple comparison.

Please let us know if a low temp thermostat is worth. Thank you

 

[Jester04]

Please let us know if a low temp thermostat is worth. Thank you

I will post up all of the results, and data.

 

[Vito.FL5]

I have tested both ways, the termostat does very little help, same as the PWR TRACK radiator.

all events were on the 100F temperature range.

What I noticed is:

THe PRL intercooler makes it a little worse.

the thermostat makes minor differences, because it is very hard to get the car under 90C (194F) to start the lap so...

the oil cooler helps a good bit.

The radiator make a difference? yes, but little.



I haven´t installed the oil cooler on my car yet, but we have tested multiple setups on friends cars. I have the PRL intercooler, mishimoto t-stat, PWR track, and cant do 1 full lap on a hot day

Keep in mind I run a VERY conservative tune, ridiculously rich, low boost, and still have problems.

I also run very aggressive power reduction as a function of ECT in order to prevent the temp to keep climbing. Up untill 100C (212F) I have full power then it starts to drop a little, a dramatically after 105C (221F). Still, at the end of a lap I would be at like 13psi of boost and 115C (239F)

In the afternoon when ambient temp drops, I can do a full lap, ending around 108C (226F)


One thing to add, is that the PWR radiator lowered the ECT2 temperatures by a good bit when comparing to the stock rad. That means the radiator does its job, but the engine keeps pickung up heat quickly.

That is why I believe the source of the problem is not actual radiator efficiency but the fact that a lot of water keep circulating in parallel.

I have most of the parts I need to redo my system but no time lol.

I´m not sure I wrote about this on thi stopic but the first test will be:

A secondary radiator in line with the turbo coolant line.
An electric valve to close the heater loop while at the track.
delete on throttle heating.
A separate radiator for transmission oil.
Looping the lines that go to the trans cooler and adding a restrictor to it, in order to have one water loop to open the t-stat

If that does not work, block the loop hoses, remove the T-stat, and test.

If that works, then mount an inline t-stat on the top hose, close to the head outlet.

If nothing works, swap one of our K24As lol.

 

[Jester04]

I have tested both ways, the termostat does very little help, same as the PWR TRACK radiator.

all events were on the 100F temperature range.

What I noticed is:

THe PRL intercooler makes it a little worse.

the thermostat makes minor differences, because it is very hard to get the car under 90C (194F) to start the lap so...

the oil cooler helps a good bit.

The radiator make a difference? yes, but little.



I haven´t installed the oil cooler on my car yet, but we have tested multiple setups on friends cars. I have the PRL intercooler, mishimoto t-stat, PWR track, and cant do 1 full lap on a hot day

Keep in mind I run a VERY conservative tune, ridiculously rich, low boost, and still have problems.

I also run very aggressive power reduction as a function of ECT in order to prevent the temp to keep climbing. Up untill 100C (212F) I have full power then it starts to drop a little, a dramatically after 105C (221F). Still, at the end of a lap I would be at like 13psi of boost and 115C (239F)

In the afternoon when ambient temp drops, I can do a full lap, ending around 108C (226F)


One thing to add, is that the PWR radiator lowered the ECT2 temperatures by a good bit when comparing to the stock rad. That means the radiator does its job, but the engine keeps pickung up heat quickly.

That is why I believe the source of the problem is not actual radiator efficiency but the fact that a lot of water keep circulating in parallel.

I have most of the parts I need to redo my system but no time lol.

I´m not sure I wrote about this on thi stopic but the first test will be:

A secondary radiator in line with the turbo coolant line.
An electric valve to close the heater loop while at the track.
delete on throttle heating.
A separate radiator for transmission oil.
Looping the lines that go to the trans cooler and adding a restrictor to it, in order to have one water loop to open the t-stat

If that does not work, block the loop hoses, remove the T-stat, and test.

If that works, then mount an inline t-stat on the top hose, close to the head outlet.

If nothing works, swap one of our K24As lol.

Vito what fluid are you running in the cooling system? Have you tried distilled water with a additive?

Also you mentioned its hard to start the lap below 194F. Even with the low temp thermostat? My car is running in the high 170’s with this colder weather on everything stock. I did adjust the radiator fans a bit.

 

[Vito.FL5]

Im running factory coolant, but with more distilled water.

I did adjust the fans too.

the problem is, once you beat it up at the track and oil picks up temperature, it keeps pulling the water up so it is very hard to make it drop.

it takes 1-2 cooling laps to get eater back into 200, but the oil takes forever to drop

At the street on a warm 76-77F night car runs between 170 and 190

 

[Jester04]

Im running factory coolant, but with more distilled water.

I did adjust the fans too.

the problem is, once you beat it up at the track and oil picks up temperature, it keeps pulling the water up so it is very hard to make it drop.

it takes 1-2 cooling laps to get eater back into 200, but the oil takes forever to drop

At the street on a warm 76-77F night car runs between 170 and 190

Ok so we are seeing similar temps. And yes once it builds heat the oil will run away with temps. I’m waiting on my oil cooler so will report back.

 

[matttheazn]

I have tested both ways, the termostat does very little help, same as the PWR TRACK radiator.

all events were on the 100F temperature range.

What I noticed is:

THe PRL intercooler makes it a little worse.

the thermostat makes minor differences, because it is very hard to get the car under 90C (194F) to start the lap so...

the oil cooler helps a good bit.

The radiator make a difference? yes, but little.



I haven´t installed the oil cooler on my car yet, but we have tested multiple setups on friends cars. I have the PRL intercooler, mishimoto t-stat, PWR track, and cant do 1 full lap on a hot day

Keep in mind I run a VERY conservative tune, ridiculously rich, low boost, and still have problems.

I also run very aggressive power reduction as a function of ECT in order to prevent the temp to keep climbing. Up untill 100C (212F) I have full power then it starts to drop a little, a dramatically after 105C (221F). Still, at the end of a lap I would be at like 13psi of boost and 115C (239F)

In the afternoon when ambient temp drops, I can do a full lap, ending around 108C (226F)


One thing to add, is that the PWR radiator lowered the ECT2 temperatures by a good bit when comparing to the stock rad. That means the radiator does its job, but the engine keeps pickung up heat quickly.

That is why I believe the source of the problem is not actual radiator efficiency but the fact that a lot of water keep circulating in parallel.

I have most of the parts I need to redo my system but no time lol.

I´m not sure I wrote about this on thi stopic but the first test will be:

A secondary radiator in line with the turbo coolant line.
An electric valve to close the heater loop while at the track.
delete on throttle heating.
A separate radiator for transmission oil.
Looping the lines that go to the trans cooler and adding a restrictor to it, in order to have one water loop to open the t-stat

If that does not work, block the loop hoses, remove the T-stat, and test.

If that works, then mount an inline t-stat on the top hose, close to the head outlet.

If nothing works, swap one of our K24As lol.

thank you this info and your 1st hand experience. Do you think a better vented CF hood would help dissipate enough heat to see a difference? And or upgrade radiator fan

 

[Vito.FL5]

thank you this info and your 1st hand experience. Do you think a better vented CF hood would help dissipate enough heat to see a difference? And or upgrade radiator fan

I believe it would help, yes. but again, To be sure where the problem comes from I have to test the new setup

 

[TW00Si]

I’m thinking I might need to change the months of track days. Instead of doing it in the middle of summer, better to track during spring and fall, start and end of the track season.

 

[Jester04]

I’m thinking I might need to change the months of track days. Instead of doing it in the middle of summer, better to track during spring and fall, start and end of the track season.

Best bet is to try it out and see what happens in your area. It will still warm up considerably but you might be able to get away with a few laps before cool down.

 

[TW00Si]

Best bet is to try it out and see what happens in your area. It will still warm up considerably but you might be able to get away with a few laps before cool down.

I’m not very good at cool downs. I tend to say to myself, “oh this one is gonna be good”. So when I cool down is when the checkered flag comes out.

 

[Icehawk]

I know one thing that seemed pretty easy/inexpensive the FK8 guys run is a reverse flow hose setup, it doesn't add a lot but every little bit helps.

https://acuityinstruments.com/produ...icone-radiator-hoses-for-the-fk8-civic-type-r


Additional hood venting?

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