OEM+ Illuminated Door Sills - FL5 and Si

[Icehawk]

I'm down for camo.

Are these plastic or metal? Assuming plastic like the OEM just nicer overall.

What's the top surface like, or better yet how is the camo pattern protected from wear?

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[ThanksGTA]

Personally think these would look better without the camo pattern, it feels a bit of a rip off from Autocannon.

 

[RUNN1N]

I'm down for camo.

Are these plastic or metal? Assuming plastic like the OEM just nicer overall.

What's the top surface like, or better yet how is the camo pattern protected from wear?

So I debated doing another run of them in camo, but I had more people reaching out with interest basically saying they were interested in a set of 4 door sills but the camo was a little too fanboy (my interpretation, not their exact words), so it seemed more likely that a group buy would be possible with the logo on black.

I also found the camo doesn't fully block the LED behind it, so it has a bit of glow to it--it's not as bright as the logo, of course, but I only want the logo to pop (similar to the Type S illuminated sills).

These are plastic from bottom to top, and are waterproofed to IP44. The top surface is smooth, flat gloss plastic, like I remember my Type S sills being. You could ceramic coat them, but I suppose you'll have to determine what type of protection is appropriate for your given use. I don't think any of these are designed or manufactured to be used as a step, but I'm unsure what else they might need to be protected from.

 

[Vaticinal]

I would be down for a set in camo as well.

 

[RUNN1N]

@Icehawk and @Vaticinal - if there ends up being enough interest to order 10 sets in camo, I'm open to it.

I'd love to get an order of black sills in first, but I'll probably need some FK8 orders to get to 10. I'll plug them on the 10th gen forum tomorrow.

 

[s2kdriver80]

Two questions...

1. The FK8 one has a slanted forward edge and a straight rear edge. Your black ones have slanted edges on both ends yet are the same overall length (and also width), so therefore should fit, yes?

2. The connector port for the FK8 ones is toward the front of the strip, as seen in the pic. I'm assuming yours is at the same location? Or, since you mentioned using the wire that comes with your kit and soldering, this whole #2 question is a moot issue?

 

[RUNN1N]

Two questions...

1. The FK8 one has a slanted forward edge and a straight rear edge. Your black ones have slanted edges on both ends yet are the same overall length (and also width), so therefore should fit, yes?

2. The connector port for the FK8 ones is toward the front of the strip, as seen in the pic. I'm assuming yours is at the same location? Or, since you mentioned using the wire that comes with your kit and soldering, this whole #2 question is a moot issue?

Mine measure 12x2 (rear) and 22x2 (front). The angled edges on the OEM sills (and the curved edges on mine) are decorative, not necessary for door closure or sealing.

The wires in each of mine exit from the center/top of the sill, which help with production (and install, frankly)—instead of having 4 different sills in one order with each specific to one door install, there are only 2 fronts and 2 backs. They’re interchangeable from left door to right.

The point where the wire enters the car isn’t necessarily important, as there’s not a “channel” for the wire to enter, it’s fed up and over the body line and into the car. The OEM kit contains 2 “clips” that hold the sill wire on each side to keep it from shifting (which could rub the wire casing over time), but they’re not essential to the job as any number of things can be used to cushion and hold the wire at your chosen entry point. On the FL5 (likely the FK8 too) there are a handful of sawtooth-like notches (smooth indentations) intermittently spaced along the door line which might be there to help the door seal make a seal, or may serve a manufacturing purpose (not completely sure, honestly, possibly for panel alignment now that I’m thinking) but I put a small bit of foam tape over one of those grooves, ran my wire across it, and put another piece of foam tape across the top. I’m happier with this entry method, personally, as the wire now sits lower than the door line and should (in theory) face less risk of getting chopped off like a guillotine should someone step on the door sill plastic trim right where the wire enters Not likely, but I suppose anything is possible.

These ship with 5’ of 20 or 22 awg wire (think speaker wire). It’s flexible, and way more than enough wire to attach both sills how/where you want them. I recommend soldering the connections (or Wago butt connectors, am I the only one who knows about these? They’re brilliant!) because I’ve had no success in finding the male/female plug ends Honda uses (there are countless variations out there, all available rom overseas, but only in bulk). OEM-type plugs aren’t critical, as you’re just connecting positive to positive and negative to negative in a way that’ll hold satisfactorily, but part of me would’ve loved to have found Honda clips. Ultimately, not important.

 

[s2kdriver80]

Mine measure 12x2 (rear) and 22x2 (front). The angled edges on the OEM sills (and the curved edges on mine) are decorative, not necessary for door closure or sealing.

The wires in each of mine exit from the center/top of the sill, which help with production (and install, frankly)—instead of having 4 different sills in one order with each specific to one door install, there are only 2 fronts and 2 backs. They’re interchangeable from left door to right.

The point where the wire enters the car isn’t necessarily important, as there’s not a “channel” for the wire to enter, it’s fed up and over the body line and into the car. The OEM kit contains 2 “clips” that hold the sill wire on each side to keep it from shifting (which could rub the wire casing over time), but they’re not essential to the job as any number of things can be used to cushion and hold the wire at your chosen entry point. On the FL5 (likely the FK8 too) there are a handful of sawtooth-like notches (smooth indentations) intermittently spaced along the door line which might be there to help the door seal make a seal, or may serve a manufacturing purpose (not completely sure, honestly, possibly for panel alignment now that I’m thinking) but I put a small bit of foam tape over one of those grooves, ran my wire across it, and put another piece of foam tape across the top. I’m happier with this entry method, personally, as the wire now sits lower than the door line and should (in theory) face less risk of getting chopped off like a guillotine should someone step on the door sill plastic trim right where the wire enters Not likely, but I suppose anything is possible.

These ship with 5’ of 20 or 22 awg wire (think speaker wire). It’s flexible, and way more than enough wire to attach both sills how/where you want them. I recommend soldering the connections (or Wago butt connectors, am I the only one who knows about these? They’re brilliant!) because I’ve had no success in finding the male/female plug ends Honda uses (there are countless variations out there, all available rom overseas, but only in bulk). OEM-type plugs aren’t critical, as you’re just connecting positive to positive and negative to negative in a way that’ll hold satisfactorily, but part of me would’ve loved to have found Honda clips. Ultimately, not important.

Thanks, so bottom line, can I bring these parts to my local mechanic and can he be expected to install them in the car, reading your replies/posts here and easily understanding them? I probably won't be doing this lol.

 

[RUNN1N]

Thanks, so bottom line, can I bring these parts to my local mechanic and can he be expected to install them in the car, reading your replies/posts here and easily understanding them? I probably won't be doing this lol.

I can't imagine any mechanic having trouble installing these, but I also think there's probably more than one "right" way to install them and others may prefer to install them differently with the same quality of outcome. Don't panic if they look over my instructions and say, "Eh, yeah, ok, I get it, but that's not how I'm going to do it." The hardest (aka most time-consuming) part, in my opinion, is running the fused wiring harness behind the dash because of the number of interior pieces that need to be removed, but if you already have the OEM illuminated door sills, that part's already done.

I'm biased having done this myself with little professional know-how, so I'll defer to others on the clarity of the instructions. @Icehawk? @Fanatic? Clear as mud? Any opinion on install difficulty here?

 

[s2kdriver80]

I can't imagine any mechanic having trouble installing these, but I also think there's probably more than one "right" way to install them and others may prefer to install them differently with the same quality of outcome. Don't panic if they look over my instructions and say, "Eh, yeah, ok, I get it, but that's not how I'm going to do it." The hardest (aka most time-consuming) part, in my opinion, is running the fused wiring harness behind the dash because of the number of interior pieces that need to be removed, but if you already have the OEM illuminated door sills, that part's already done.

I'm biased having done this myself with little professional know-how, so I'll defer to others on the clarity of the instructions. @Icehawk? @Fanatic? Clear as mud? Any opinion on install difficulty here?

Thanks, yea, I assume most of the work is already done in my case in terms of the dash wiring as I have working FK8 illuminated sills, just need to tap into that to power the rears too now. My mechanic should have basic soldering tools.

I'll take your word that these fit on the FK8 front and rear sills.

I guess you can put me down for the black set. The camo one is interesting, but I prefer the "OEM" look that Honda themselves would release.

 

[RUNN1N]

I'll take your word that these fit on the FK8 front and rear sills.

Feel free to take a quick measurement to double check--I have no doubts about the front, and assume 12" isn't too wide for the rear sills, but don't know anyone with a FK8 to measure.

And I'd be surprised if a shop solders--three shops I spoke with while I was doing my pattern projectors said they exclusively use Wago connectors at this point. You'd think I work for Wago, but I don't, they're just too easy to use.

 

[Fanatic]

I'm biased having done this myself with little professional know-how, so I'll defer to others on the clarity of the instructions. @Icehawk? @Fanatic? Clear as mud? Any opinion on install difficulty here?

Instructions and quality of work are great. : )

 

[Icehawk]

Those Wago connectors look interesting, I use Posi-taps and connectors myself, super easy to use.

The install isn't hard it's just, as mentioned, a fair amount of panels need to be removed to string the harness - it's why I haven't done the OEM ones.

 

[RUNN1N]

Those Wago connectors look interesting, I use Posi-taps and connectors myself, super easy to use.

First time hearing about Posi-taps, but they look like they'd work great for this! I assume a car audio shop could recommend 10+ different easy methods to connect 22awg wiring.

 

[s2kdriver80]

Feel free to take a quick measurement to double check--I have no doubts about the front, and assume 12" isn't too wide for the rear sills, but don't know anyone with a FK8 to measure.

And I'd be surprised if a shop solders--three shops I spoke with while I was doing my pattern projectors said they exclusively use Wago connectors at this point. You'd think I work for Wago, but I don't, they're just too easy to use.

The FK8 front sills are 22 inches long as well, and a hair over 2 inches wide. However, note there is that raised ridge on the sheetmetal that the accessory sill contours over. Do your sills have the same contour (e.g. does the FL5 sheetmetal also have this ridge)?

The FK8 rear sheetmetal also has a raised ridge. Also, you mentioned your rear sill was 12 inches long. There is about 10 inches of completely flat sheetmetal, but a 12-inch sill might need to be ever so slightly curved up on either end (~1 inch on each end). If the sill material is flexible and the adhesive is strong enough, it may work, I don't know.

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