Ohlins DFV Road & Track Settings Discussion

[TW00Si]

We are getting old ... LOL

I would not call it more compliant ride, I will call it firm but not uncomfortable. It is definitely better than FL5 OEM shock suspension (even with ITS ADS). I think we need to calibrate ourselves on our expectation of Type R ride. Just my 2 cents.

I’m actually okay with the type R ride. It’s the S2000 that I’m complaining about. It’s somehow still more stiff than the FL5. I actually recently bought a ITS ADS that I saw a member selling or else would not have ordered it on my own. I will try to install it later in the day. I am curious to see what R+ feels like on the track since back in May when I first experienced R+ on the track it was very bouncy.

Someone was trying to explain to me how the Ohlins even with stiffer springs might feel better than stock is because the shocks are better and able to do its work compared to stock.

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[chadwicke619]

Nice!

For anyone interested, we're running a slight promotion on Ohlin this month.

-Josh

What is the promotion? I was just checking out your website, and it looked like standard pricing for the Ohlins R&T.

https://merakiautoworks.com/products/ohlins-17-20-honda-civic-type-r-fk8-road-track-coilover-system

 

[MERAKIAUTOWORKS]

What is the promotion? I was just checking out your website, and it looked like standard pricing for the Ohlins R&T.

https://merakiautoworks.com/products/ohlins-17-20-honda-civic-type-r-fk8-road-track-coilover-system

Send me a message

-Josh

 

[Erko]

Isn't Ohlins supposed to be releasing a revised kit with lower spring rates? I follow @Zygrene for ITS content (wonderful channel, HIGHLY suggest any enthusiast give him a sub as well), and he's been working directly with Ohlins on his Type S and is going from the 6kg front/10kg rear setup originally engineered for the FK8 to 7kg all around. Jury's still out on if/how much an improvement is made, but I feel like that change could make this a very viable solution vs springs for those of us who plan to extract a bit more of the car's potential on top of drive it most days.

7/7 strikes me as a large departure from the 6/10,in the FK8/FL5 kit. Very interesting to see what happens here….has Ohlins been marketing something suboptimal for the FL5 to date? Weird.

 

[optronix]

7/7 strikes me as a large departure from the 6/10,in the FK8/FL5 kit. Very interesting to see what happens here….has Ohlins been marketing something suboptimal for the FL5 to date? Weird.

Right, and maybe it's not truly "suboptimal", but technically the parts fit and most folks who installed them seem to be pretty happy with them. To me it's more like "based on user feedback, this is better...".

I haven't driven an FK8 but many claim the FL5/DE5 platform is more eager to rotate, so perhaps the higher spring rate in the rear is unnecessary.

 

[TW00Si]

Right, and maybe it's not truly "suboptimal", but technically the parts fit and most folks who installed them seem to be pretty happy with them. To me it's more like "based on user feedback, this is better...".

I haven't driven an FK8 but many claim the FL5/DE5 platform is more eager to rotate, so perhaps the higher spring rate in the rear is unnecessary.

I only had the chance to track my FK8 once, at a 2 day track event last year. In the first half of the day, I didn’t turn off traction control. Didn’t feel any rotation. Second half of the I turned traction control off, there was quite a bit of rotation. This was on stock wheels and tires.

Last month, I tracked the FL5 for the first time. I didn’t turn off traction control for 2 reasons. It’s the first time out and the track was semi damp. The car rotated enough for my liking. This was on stock wheels and tires.

So in that sense, I guess it could be that the FL5 rear end comes around more willingly than the FK8. But sample size too small for me to say for sure.

 

[VWGUY]

I am very interested in getting these. The things that are holding me back are the fact that they are not specific to the FL5. I have also seen people testing different combinations of springs. Is Ohlins planning to update for the FL5? In my mind it fits, and it is made for, are two different things. Should I be concerned with this?

 

[MERAKIAUTOWORKS]

I am very interested in getting these. The things that are holding me back are the fact that they are not specific to the FL5. I have also seen people testing different combinations of springs. Is Ohlins planning to update for the FL5? In my mind it fits, and it is made for, are two different things. Should I be concerned with this?

I don't think they will be making a FL5 specific one. I agree with you on this, but we've sold a lot of these to experienced FL5 track people and they have no complaints. The real hard core ones don't run these kind of coilovers anyways.

-Josh

 

[raptor718]

Based on existing stock, I doubt they would repackage an updated FL5 kit. Too many sitting out there as is.

Sugarland, is firmest setting all the way counter clockwise or clockwise? I ask because all the literature in the box show versions with the adjustment knob at the top of the body but these obviously have the knob at the bottom.

so holding them normally with the knob down what way is what?

thanks. Mine are installed and I set them in the exact center. 10 clicks from either direction since I’m not sure what is what lol. Very very nice upgrade; I’m super happy with these and would consider them a great mod at the middle setting

 

[sugarl4nd]

Based on existing stock, I doubt they would repackage an updated FL5 kit. Too many sitting out there as is.

Sugarland, is firmest setting all the way counter clockwise or clockwise? I ask because all the literature in the box show versions with the adjustment knob at the top of the body but these obviously have the knob at the bottom.

so holding them normally with the knob down what way is what?

thanks. Mine are installed and I set them in the exact center. 10 clicks from either direction since I’m not sure what is what lol. Very very nice upgrade; I’m super happy with these and would consider them a great mod at the middle setting

Hahhhahahaa, I asked the same questions to myself. Especially, the knob is at the bottom (not the top, I got confused ... LOL). But if you tried both ways, you will find that : if you turn clockwise all the way, you will stop (unable to turn anymore). This is firmest setting at ZERO click. Then you go counterclockwise to open up. At the moment, I'm experimenting between 11, 12 or 13 clicks.

At 13 clicks, I found a bit bouncy - especially if the street/road is not flat.
At 11 clicks, it's firm. This is my go to setting in street.

Now, I'm at 12 clicks, slight bounce but more comfortable than 11 clicks.

I also play around different clicks from front & rear. Car behave differently, you can feel it.

Please do share your 'trial & error' clicks.

 

[scuderia_miso]

Could you run these at stock ride height if you wanted or is it not possible? The ride height and preload adjustment are the same on these from what I can tell.

I'd be interested in these if I could run them at or really close to stock ride height. Any more than about 10mm lower and I'd scrape too much on my driveway.

Edit: Just answered my own question. "Approx. 10 - 30 mm lower than standard with recommended setup" is what Ohlins says.

 

[sugarl4nd]

Ohlins will give you a little bit drop, not too much. Just enough, not being too aggressive ... Here is the side picture of Ohlins on its recommended settings :

I never scrape on my driveway

 

[tezzasaurusrex]

I have set up several vehicles on the Ohlins kit so here's my 2 cents.

The max lowering is ~19mm from factory before the front springs start to lose captivity/preload. Similarly this applies to the rear also.

The damping adjustment in not linear. Ie. The steps in adjustments become exponential towards the end of the adjustment range (0 clicks from full hard). So you'll find there's little difference between 10-20 clicks out from full hard. Between 0-8 clicks out is when you really get into the meat and potatoes. It's important to note that this adjustment affects both bound and rebound damping circuits, so when you opt for a soft ride, you'll also get a faster rebound rate, which results in the bounciness. Personally, I don't recommend running them any softer than 10 clicks out to maintain ideal ride frequency.

A lot of my customers have found that the 10kg rear is rather stiff compared to the front. Ohlins has done this to maximise the way the front end bites into corners, however the result is sometimes a little too much lift off oversteer, and harshness and nervousness from the rear end in general. I have set a few cars up with 8kg-9kg rear springs with good results.

The Ohlins cancellers are way over priced and too bulky imo. Better to opt for the Tein cancellers and make yourself a bracket to mount up to the shock bodies. The Tein cancellers are a fraction of the weight, and much cheaper.

 

[sugarl4nd]

The damping adjustment in not linear. Ie. The steps in adjustments become exponential towards the end of the adjustment range (0 clicks from full hard). So you'll find there's little difference between 10-20 clicks out from full hard. Between 0-8 clicks out is when you really get into the meat and potatoes. It's important to note that this adjustment affects both bound and rebound damping circuits, so when you opt for a soft ride, you'll also get a faster rebound rate, which results in the bounciness. Personally, I don't recommend running them any softer than 10 clicks out to maintain ideal ride frequency.

This above statement is right on the money in my observation so far. I wish you could have told us earlier. Bounciness above 12 clicks are beginning to get noticeable and not ideal - I'm not willing to compromise soft ride vs bounciness.

For my set up, 11 - 12 clicks are my preferences.

Also, I would like to know your opinions on having front & rear click settings difference. Any recommendations ?

 

[tezzasaurusrex]

Also, I would like to know your opinions on having front & rear click settings difference. Any recommendations ?

A lot of the track guys end up winding the front dampers right up and leaving the rear around 5-6 clicks out to settle the rear to some degree especially during initial turn-in.

For the street, its whatever floats your boat. I will maintain that a softer rear rate is the best solution for comfort though.

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