Question about FL5 front brake lines at the caliper?!

[Geneman]

Hi Peeps.. was going to swap to girodisc rotors and some new pads today... when I realized that the brake line going into the caliper is solid... not flexible . So I did not have a brake fitting wrench and just decided to bag it for the day... In looking at some descriptions and videos, nobody mentions this solid brake line.

So if I leave the line attached to the caliper, is there enough play in the solid line to back the caliper off the rotor ( and hang it to the side) while replacing rotor and pads?

In just looking at it, seems that the brake line is quite rigid.. do not want to kink it or other wise damage. But I also do not want to remove that line, then have to bleed brakes etc.

PLease help.... thank you. Frank

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[Evox787]

I found this on the forum; hopefully, it helps you, but those lines are a headache. I messed one up while installing the stainless steel lines on mine.
https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threa...n-fl5-civic-type-r-experience-and-tips.66558/

 

[Geneman]

thanks evox... yeah I saw that one... but still could not determine if he dealt with the brake line.. although it seems attached ...

 

[Evox787]

thanks evox... yeah I saw that one... but still could not determine if he dealt with the brake line.. although it seems attached ...

Yes, it’s attached, though you can shift it slightly; I believe the name is bungee cord so it won’t hang loose or anything, and if I can remember, the rubber line is held by a 10mm bolt with a base. Loosen that too so you have a little more leverage. They are a pain in the rear end, especially if yours was assembled on a Friday like mine appears to have been .

 

[blueroadster]

Hi Peeps.. was going to swap to girodisc rotors and some new pads today... when I realized that the brake line going into the caliper is solid... not flexible . So I did not have a brake fitting wrench and just decided to bag it for the day... In looking at some descriptions and videos, nobody mentions this solid brake line.

So if I leave the line attached to the caliper, is there enough play in the solid line to back the caliper off the rotor ( and hang it to the side) while replacing rotor and pads?

In just looking at it, seems that the brake line is quite rigid.. do not want to kink it or other wise damage. But I also do not want to remove that line, then have to bleed brakes etc.

PLease help.... thank you. Frank

Front calipers are different than traditional ones used in that you do not have to remove the caliper to swap out the pads. Also, no need to mess with the hard line going to the caliper when replacing the rotor itself. After removing the wheel and on each side:

1. Use a brake pin punch to remove the two pins on the caliper;
2. Remove the retaining clip holding the pads down in place;
3. Loosen the cap on the brake fluid reservoir;
4. Back at the caliper, insert two flathead screwdrivers through the top area of the caliper where the pins/clip were removed. The shaft of the screwdriver should touch the ears on the brake pad and the tip should touch the rotor. Gently pry as you are using the old pads to compress the caliper pistons back to be seated. Alternate on both sides of the rotor until the pistons on each side of the caliper are compressed;
5. Remove the used brake pads;
6. Remove the one Phillips screw securing the rotor to the hub using an impact driver.
7. Remove the two bolts holding the caliper in place. It will then be loose and does not need to be hung;
8. Clean the area;
9. Use hand one to remove the old rotor while holding the caliper in its general place with hand two;
10. Install the new rotor with hand one (make sure the new rotor is oriented properly); and
11. You should be good to go from there.

 

[Evox787]

Front calipers are different than traditional ones used in that you do not have to remove the caliper to swap out the pads. Also, no need to mess with the hard line going to the caliper when replacing the rotor itself. After removing the wheel and on each side:

1. Use a brake pin punch to remove the two pins on the caliper;
2. Remove the retaining clip holding the pads down in place;
3. Loosen the cap on the brake fluid reservoir;
4. Back at the caliper, insert two flathead screwdrivers through the top area of the caliper where the pins/clip were removed. The shaft of the screwdriver should touch the ears on the brake pad and the tip should touch the rotor. Gently pry as you are using the old pads to compress the caliper pistons back to be seated. Alternate on both sides of the rotor until the pistons on each side of the caliper are compressed;
5. Remove the used brake pads;
6. Remove the one Phillips screw securing the rotor to the hub using an impact driver.
7. Remove the two bolts holding the caliper in place. It will then be loose and does not need to be hung;
8. Clean the area;
9. Use hand one to remove the old rotor while holding the caliper in its general place with hand two;
10. Install the new rotor with hand one (make sure the new rotor is oriented properly); and
11. You should be good to go from there.

But the reason he is doing the post is because he has some Giro disc rotors to install as well not just pads.

 

[blueroadster]

But the reason he is doing the post is because he has some Giro disc rotors to install as well not just pads.

Tracking…Covers the rotors and I installed the same.

 

[Geneman]

Does anyone know what the size and thread of the rotor retaining screw ? I had to drill it out as would not budge . I know one really does not need it, but might include if I can source one. thank you

 

[J_D]

Does anyone know what the size and thread of the rotor retaining screw ? I had to drill it out as would not budge . I know one really does not need it, but might include if I can source one. thank you

All Hondas use the same one, just drop by a dealer.

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