Swift spring install- cut rear bump stops?

[UCF120]

I searched all throughout and can’t find a definitive answer on whether the rear bump stops on a 23’ Type R should be cut when installing Swift springs.

can anyone chime in that has Swift?
Also, if you do cut them, can you show the process? I know you just lift the dust cover which gives you access to the bump stop on the shocks but do you cut from the top of the bump stop or bottom?

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[ctechauto]

It is standard operating procedure here at my shop when installing lowering springs on this platform to cut the bumpstops. It doesnt matter what brand and whether its specifically called out or not from the manufacturer, because riding or hitting the bumpstops feels awful when you lower a vehicle. Cut both F&R bumpstops up to the bottom-most first 'nub'. We err on the side of caution, there is no harm in cutting them anyways, and rather not have a customer come back and say xyz springs ride like poop and it ends up being the bumpstop. You're already there with the suspension apart, it is a might-as-well at that point (even if you ignore the mfgs like Eibach and Spoon explictly telling you to cut them anyway).

That being said, if any of you are in the north Texas area, my shop specializes in Type Rs and can install aftermarket lowering springs (or any mods) like Swifts: https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/ctech-auto-dfw-tx-type-r-specialist-shop.62651/

 

[KushySoles]

I didn't cut mine. Saw someone reaching out to Swift, and they said not to cut it. Car rides fine.

 

[ctechauto]

I didn't cut mine. Saw someone reaching out to Swift, and they said not to cut it. Car rides fine.

We err on the side of caution, there is no harm in cutting them anyways, and rather not have a customer come back and say xyz springs ride like poop and it ends up being the bumpstop. You're already there with the suspension apart, it is a might-as-well at that point (even if you ignore the mfgs like Eibach and Spoon explictly telling you to cut them anyway).

But YMMV.

 

[Sporky McGeuschky]

We err on the side of caution, there is no harm in cutting them anyways, and rather not have a customer come back and say xyz springs ride like poop and it ends up being the bumpstop. You're already there with the suspension apart, it is a might-as-well at that point (even if you ignore the mfgs like Eibach and Spoon explictly telling you to cut them anyway).

But YMMV.

I know that I'm way out of my league here regarding suspension, being that I'm the one person on this forum who wants to increase ride height, rather than lower it.
Please forgive me for my backwoods "jacked up on knobbies mentality".

That being said, aren't bump stops installed for safety?
Correct me if I am wrong, but aren't the bump stops the final barrier to keep the car from bottoming out, and to keep the tires from rubbing through the wheel wells?

If this is the case, wouldn't "erring on the side of caution" be leaving the bump stocks fully intact, rather than the other way around, in order to stay "on the safe side"?

Not questioning your work experience, @ctechauto .
It's just the way that you used that phrase "erring on the side of caution", that sounds to me at least, 180 degrees the opposite of how that phrase is meant to be used.
To me it seems like cutting any of the bump stop is "erring on the side of danger". This is probably a bit of an extreme example, but hopefully you see my point of view.
In this case, there has got to be a better phrase to say what you mean.

I'm not here to start beef. I'm looking out for our once-great English language. I just hate seeing English words twisted into new illogical "meanings" that turn definitions of words upside down on their heads, until words and phrases no longer mean what they used to mean.

Please don't take any personal offense to my response. It just that the way that that phrase is used in this case sounds very confusing to me.

Cheers.

 

[ctechauto]

I know that I'm way out of my league here regarding suspension, being that I'm the one person on this forum who wants to increase ride height, rather than lower it.
Please forgive me for my backwoods "jacked up on knobbies mentality".

That being said, aren't bump stops installed for safety?
Correct me if I am wrong, but aren't the bump stops the final barrier to keep the car from bottoming out, and to keep the tires from rubbing through the wheel wells?

If this is the case, wouldn't "erring on the side of caution" be leaving the bump stocks fully intact, rather than the other way around, in order to stay "on the safe side"?

Not questioning your work experience, @ctechauto .
It's just the way that you used that phrase "erring on the side of caution", that sounds to me at least, 180 degrees the opposite of how that phrase is meant to be used.
To me it seems like cutting any of the bump stop is "erring on the side of danger". This is probably a bit of an extreme example, but hopefully you see my point of view.
In this case, there has got to be a better phrase to say what you mean.

I'm not here to start beef. I'm looking out for our once-great English language. I just hate seeing English words twisted into new illogical "meanings" that turn definitions of words upside down on their heads, until words and phrases no longer mean what they used to mean.

Please don't take any personal offense to my response. It just that the way that that phrase is used in this case sounds very confusing to me.

Cheers.

Totally get what you're saying, but not in this case. Err on the side of caution in this case is about not pre-maturely hitting the bumpstops through the up-travel of the suspension cycling due to reduced strut travel from shorter [lowering] springs.

You're reducing strut travel/stroke by lowering the car with shorter springs. The factory bumpstop (aka: jounce stops, or even secondary "springs" because they effectively change the spring rate when compressed) are a certain length matched to the stock springs and suspension travel.

They are not necessarily to prevent the car from bottoming out the tires into the wheel well, but moreso for protection of the strut/shock itself during the compression cycle (technically has an internal strut bumpstop anyway) so the strut doesnt over compress on the up travel. Because the stock suspension enough travel to do this with or without the bumpstops. They are just high density foam and would collapse under the full weight of the car anyway (say if you caught air or something that extreme).

So, when you lower the car with shorter springs, you are reducing the strut up travel/stroke. If you leave them as is, they can be more prone to be "activated" in a sense (pre-maturely hitting them), which severely reduces ride quality as you are bouncing up and down on them, again because its a foam spring in a sense. Will this actually happen in real life applications? Probably not, unless your car is fully loaded with weight/maxed out. But if your suspension cycles enough even unloaded it could. That is why you err on the side of caution to not have the suspension prone to bounce up and down on the bumpstops. The same bumpstops you can use your own hand and weight to squish because its just dense foam (albeit, wouldn't compress much with just your hands).

 

[UCF120]

Totally get what you're saying, but not in this case. Err on the side of caution in this case is about not pre-maturely hitting the bumpstops through the up-travel of the suspension cycling due to reduced strut travel from shorter [lowering] springs.

You're reducing strut travel/stroke by lowering the car with shorter springs. The factory bumpstop (aka: jounce stops, or even secondary "springs" because they effectively change the spring rate when compressed) are a certain length matched to the stock springs and suspension travel.

They are not necessarily to prevent the car from bottoming out the tires into the wheel well, but moreso for protection of the strut/shock itself during the compression cycle (technically has an internal strut bumpstop anyway) so the strut doesnt over compress on the up travel. Because the stock suspension enough travel to do this with or without the bumpstops. They are just high density foam and would collapse under the full weight of the car anyway (say if you caught air or something that extreme).

So, when you lower the car with shorter springs, you are reducing the strut up travel/stroke. If you leave them as is, they can be more prone to be "activated" in a sense (pre-maturely hitting them), which severely reduces ride quality as you are bouncing up and down on them, again because its a foam spring in a sense. Will this actually happen in real life applications? Probably not, unless your car is fully loaded with weight/maxed out. But if your suspension cycles enough even unloaded it could. That is why you err on the side of caution to not have the suspension prone to bounce up and down on the bumpstops. The same bumpstops you can use your own hand and weight to squish because its just dense foam (albeit, wouldn't compress much with just your hands).

appreciate all the responses! For the rear bump stops, I’m assuming you just lift the dust cover and cut the bottom correct? You don’t need to cut the very top of it?

 

[ctechauto]

appreciate all the responses! For the rear bump stops, I’m assuming you just lift the dust cover and cut the bottom correct? You don’t need to cut the very top of it?

You should cut both front and rear. Its also easier to just take the strut out and take the top mount off the strut and cut it independently instead of trying to finagle or fight it while its on the car. Its tucked super high up and the dust boot will bind anyway so dont fight it. Not to mention you may score or nick the strut shaft with your utility knife if you're trying to do it on the car.

 

[UCF120]

You should cut both front and rear. Its also easier to just take the strut out and take the top mount off the strut and cut it independently instead of trying to finagle or fight it while its on the car. Its tucked super high up and the dust boot will bind anyway so dont fight it. Not to mention you may score or nick the strut shaft with your utility knife if you're trying to do it on the car.

Yeah I’m gonna cut both front and rear. Just wondering what part of the bump stop needs to be cut? The top smaller portion of the bottom wider portion?

 

[ctechauto]

Yeah I’m gonna cut both front and rear. Just wondering what part of the bump stop needs to be cut? The top smaller portion of the bottom wider portion?

You always cut the bottom portion, never the top.

 

[UCF120]

You always cut the bottom portion, never the top.

alright cool appreciate it!

 

[Sporky McGeuschky]

You always cut the bottom portion, never the top.

Cutting any portion is strange to me.
Next time I'm in DFW, I want a lesson... if that's OK with you.
I'll even buy the spare OEM bump stops ahead of time, just to witness this maniacy.
This is just so weird to me.

... Trimming down the bump stop... ???

 

[ctechauto]

Cutting any portion is strange to me.
Next time I'm in DFW, I want a lesson... if that's OK with you.
I'll even buy the spare OEM bump stops ahead of time, just to witness this maniacy.
This is just so weird to me.

... Trimming down the bump stop... ???

Well the explanation is above on why

 

[Sporky McGeuschky]

Copy that, brother.
I just want to go up there and witness this in person.
Being that I grew up in Houston in the 80s and 90s, I'm sure I have "looked at" this setup plenty of times.
I just don't think I have "seen" it, because I wasn't "on the level", and couldn't see the whole vision.

I was probably laughing at the car from behind, wondering... "Why is that TSX in front of me getting a ticket, for having its chrome wheels pressing down to the road, lower than the tires ... and scraping the pavement, and producing sparks??? ... Looks like the camber is broken ..."


I gotta be honest. This day and age... I still don't get it. I don't see the benefits.

Maybe that's just me.

Call me a Boomer Noob.

 

[nttran98]

Ill say this, install it, dont cut it, and Ride for a bit (for settling).
Then, Jack car up, lift the boot. Lower car back down, just to see how much travel you get, then make the determination. In my FL1, swift said not to cut, but then I got 1/8 of an inch travel unloaded, and 0 travel loaded so I cut 1 notch off. but I am not sure if they are the same across models

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