Tracking with Type S module vs Type R

[MooMoo]

the big problem with auto cross and imo why its not that popular is that you don't get enough seat time. Its crazy to be out there from 7am to 4pm and get 5 runs. I admire the whole grass roots aspect and to try to keep prices down everyone works and stuff but some places now its over $100 for the day and you get 5 runs of less than a minute each. I just can't believe its not possible to get more seat time on these things.

I do autocross at lime rock at the fcp euro proving grounds but its very different, yes its a lot more expensive and there are not cones really, its a small track but same principle, but you get so much seat time, I have gotten 45 minutes of seat time before when not a lot of people show up. I go once a month as I sign up for the club and its pretty reasonable in price, really wish more tracks had something like this for everyone else because to me its as fun as a track day but with way less consequences. I love doing both and not one over the other.


As far as the Type R vs Type S module discussion, can't really comment cuz I don't really remember what the type R module feels like, I know it was unusable on a lot of the tracks up here . I now have DSC and I prefer it to the integra module

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[Nikw91]

Sharing pics from Daytona last Thursday!

 

[CG13]

Hey all,

I've just had my 3rd track day (Sebring, Sebring, Daytona) and have experienced some understeer in the really tight infield turns recently.

My ONLY suspension mod is the Integra Type S module. (Factory Michelin PS4S)

I was looking at rear sway bars and when it came time to pay, it hit me that the stiffer Type R module might help the back end rotate more in the really tight turns.

Other than the super tight turns, the car feels very well balanced OEM.

Wondering what the forums would recommend? Leave it as is? Add a stiffer rear sway bar? Switch back to Type R module? Switch sway bar and module?

Thank you!

I have a lot of track days on my FL5. About half were with the OEM suspension module, and about half are with the ITS module.

I notice no real difference in understeer or turn-in with both set-ups in +R mode. The big difference, and reason for going with the ITS module is the lack of control on bumpier parts of my local track.

For the track, if you’re driving with good pace:

- You will destroy the PS4S tires with stock alignment. The sidewalls are too soft and they roll over, contributing to the understeer and overall poor handling. Adding pressure to try to avoid the roll-over makes them handle worse.

- You need negative camber. I run negative-3 on the fronts but don’t drive on the street much. Anything you add will help. You can get a little bit out of the front strut tower mounts, but not enough to save the PS4S tires. Handling improves dramatically with the camber setup on the fronts.

- I finally added a rear sway bar about a month ago. I’m running the RV6 in the middle stiffness setting. Understeer is reduced and turn-in feels sharper. The car rotates better. I see no down-side to this cheap mod and I should have done it when I bought the car.

- You will need cooling - oil cooler, radiator, transmission cooler, intercooler, vented under-tray, downpipe with blanket, turbo blanket, is what I’m currently running and a J’s Racing vented hood is coming next. The car cannot do 20 minute sessions with any kind of pace in stock form on the tracks I’ve run.

I started a thread regarding track driving with this car that lists the rest of my mods if you’re interested.

 

[Nikw91]

I have a lot of track days on my FL5. About half were with the OEM suspension module, and about half are with the ITS module.

I notice no real difference in understeer or turn-in with both set-ups in +R mode. The big difference, and reason for going with the ITS module is the lack of control on bumpier parts of my local track.

For the track, if you’re driving with good pace:

- You will destroy the PS4S tires with stock alignment. The sidewalls are too soft and they roll over, contributing to the understeer and overall poor handling. Adding pressure to try to avoid the roll-over makes them handle worse.

- You need negative camber. I run negative-3 on the fronts but don’t drive on the street much. Anything you add will help. You can get a little bit out of the front strut tower mounts, but not enough to save the PS4S tires. Handling improves dramatically with the camber setup on the fronts.

- I finally added a rear sway bar about a month ago. I’m running the RV6 in the middle stiffness setting. Understeer is reduced and turn-in feels sharper. The car rotates better. I see no down-side to this cheap mod and I should have done it when I bought the car.

- You will need cooling - oil cooler, radiator, transmission cooler, intercooler, vented under-tray, downpipe with blanket, turbo blanket, is what I’m currently running and a J’s Racing vented hood is coming next. The car cannot do 20 minute sessions with any kind of pace in stock form on the tracks I’ve run.

I started a thread regarding track driving with this car that lists the rest of my mods if you’re interested.

That’s exactly what I was wanting to hear. I thought the CTR ADS might be to bouncy. I will definitely do a sway bar now!

I’ve already done a bunch of cooling.
-CSF radiator
-HEL oil cooler
-WOT cooling plate
-HKS tube and fin intercooler
-PRL intake
-PRL coolant tank
-Remove hood rain guard
-TSP downpipe
-PTP hardlagged downpipe blanket

I don’t run into cooling issues. And am about to do a full brake overhaul (shims, SRF fluid, stainless steel lines, racing brake pads)

 

[CG13]

That’s exactly what I was wanting to hear. I thought the CTR ADS might be to bouncy. I will definitely do a sway bar now!

I’ve already done a bunch of cooling.
-CSF radiator
-HEL oil cooler
-WOT cooling plate
-HKS tube and fin intercooler
-PRL intake
-PRL coolant tank
-Remove hood rain guard
-TSP downpipe
-PTP hardlagged downpipe blanket

I don’t run into cooling issues. And am about to do a full brake overhaul (shims, SRF fluid, stainless steel lines, racing brake pads)

Hey I’m glad you did cooling first! The RV6 rear sway bar with billet end links seems like a good quality kit and price is not bad at all.

I recently added AP Racing front rotors and calipers with Ferodo pads and stainless lines. I drive exclusively with pedal dance so my rear brakes see little wear. I drove a full season on one set of Paragon pads with the OEM rotors. In the same time period I had to swap the front pads 2 or 3 times. I now put Ferodo pads on the rear as well and should get through this year without replacement.