Journal on 2024 Civic Type R 28362

[NeRO_CTR]

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[Evox787]

Yesterday, I started installing the rear tailgate LED accessory OEM designed for the Japanese market. First, the PDF I found was, of course, a pain to follow because Spanish is my first language, English is my second, and the only thing I can say in Japanese is "Arigato!" The instructions suggest taking apart half of the interior, but in reality, you just need to remove the trunk panels and the plastic in the C-pillar driver side, but not all the way because you only need to route the wires from the tailgate back to the light that is already on the trunk.

Today, I plan to finish the work. The images in the PDF are confusing but still somewhat helpful. I will post the guide here in case someone else wants it and already has the part. But while I was there, I bought a wiper delete from Amazon Vtec Performance Tuning Will try to see if water goes through tomorrow, but it looks exactly the same as the ones you get for twice the price.

I also removed the shifter because I could never get it to line up correctly. In my opinion, the Likewise shifter, which costs over $200, is really a disappointing product. I emailed them with detailed feedback, explaining that the instructions are vague and no matter what I tried, I couldn’t get it to align properly.

In the end, I bought the Spoon shifter instead. While it does a decent job of regulating temperature, I bought it directly from their website for $80, including shipping, and received it quickly. However, the Spoon shifter doesn’t feel worth the price it doesn’t even weigh much. While it’s nice that you can place the sticker after installation to avoid a crooked look, it doesn’t come with an extra sticker for future use in case it loses adhesion or the gel coat is damaged. Still, I guess that’s just part of the Spoon tax.

https://a.co/d/09iWM2Y5

 

[Chilly613]

Yesterday, I started installing the rear tailgate LED accessory OEM designed for the Japanese market. First, the PDF I found was, of course, a pain to follow because Spanish is my first language, English is my second, and the only thing I can say in Japanese is "Arigato!" The instructions suggest taking apart half of the interior, but in reality, you just need to remove the trunk panels and the plastic in the C-pillar but not all the way because you only need to route the wires from the tailgate back to the light that is already on the trunk.

Today, I plan to finish the work. The images in the PDF are confusing but still somewhat helpful. I will post the guide here in case someone else wants it and already has the part. But while I was there, I bought a wiper delete from Amazon Vtec Performance Tuning Will try to see if water goes through tomorrow, but it looks exactly the same as the ones you get for twice the price.

I also removed the shifter because I could never get it to line up correctly. In my opinion, the Likewise shifter, which costs over $200, is really a disappointing product. I emailed them with detailed feedback, explaining that the instructions are vague and no matter what I tried, I couldn’t get it to align properly.

In the end, I bought the Spoon shifter instead. While it does a decent job of regulating temperature, I bought it directly from their website for $80, including shipping, and received it quickly. However, the Spoon shifter doesn’t feel worth the price it doesn’t even weigh much. While it’s nice that you can place the sticker after installation to avoid a crooked look, it doesn’t come with an extra sticker for future use in case it loses adhesion or the gel coat is damaged. Still, I guess that’s just part of the Spoon tax.

https://a.co/d/09iWM2Y5

Don't know if you know this, but you can load PDF documents into Google Translate and it'll translate the instructions for you. It won't be 100%, but its a little better than trying to rely on pictures only.

 

[Evox787]

Don't know if you know this, but you can load PDF documents into Google Translate and it'll translate the instructions for you. It won't be 100%, but its a little better than trying to rely on pictures only.

Yes, I tried that, and the translation was alright, but it wasn’t like one by one was just a big paragraph and didn’t know where or what it was talking about. Maybe I did something wrong or just missed the command on how to separate it or something, but I figured it out. Like I said, the only thing to take apart is the rear of the trunk and the C-pillar panel.

 

[Evox787]

I’m already done with the tailgate light. I’d say it was about a 4 out of 10 to figure out because of the Japanese instructions, but once you start, it’s pretty simple. One mistake I made—so others can avoid it—is that I confused the side I passed through the tailgate. One side has a plug, and the other just has two leads. The two leads are the ones that go toward the car, not like the picture I took.

If you have a wire fish tape, it will cut the work in half because you can pass the wire through the tailgate much faster. As long as you take apart the trunk like in the pictures, you’ll be good to go.

The part also comes with decals to label the fuse. The one you use is the 2A option. Lastly, to make the hole, you don’t need the template that comes with the kit—it’s already stamped on the plastic. I used an 8mm drill bit and made multiple holes, and with a new blade in a utility knife, the holes came out almost perfect.

Now I just need to put everything back together, but I’m not sure if I want to order the Seibon carbon fiber rear strut bar first and then reassemble everything. Probably stupid yes, but who said owning a car like this is a smart decision .

 

[NeRO_CTR]

Love rear light install bro. I was too afraid to tear into the car when I first purchased it for something like that....

 

[Evox787]

Love rear light install bro. I was too afraid to tear into the car when I first purchased it for something like that....

Me too! I think I bought the light in September 2024 but didn’t install it because of that. When I found the PDF in Japanese with all the stuff it said to remove, I just set it aside . The instructions are good, but sometimes intuition works better. I remember the first time I did the clutch on my Evo—according to the instructions, to remove the transmission I needed to remove the transfer case, bleed it, and do a bunch of other things. In reality, I just removed everything and moved the transfer case enough to the side to pull the transmission out and back in.

 

[Evox787]

Little update: my friend gifted me the Hybrid Racing shift boot. It was on his Integra before he gave it to me. It looks great and really complements the Alcantara on the inside. I wish I could get the steering wheel, but knowing myself, I would get it all dirty and messy. I’ll be using the OEM until I can get the Unity Performance one in leather with the red stripe on top. I couldn’t afford a Porsche, but that will be the closest I can get—other than driving one at COTA, where I drove a GT4 RS and loved it. But I’m poor . Also, I’m using the Quadlock carplay/Android because the wireless and wired Apple Play on this car are trash and don’t get me started on the Bluetooth; the connection is really annoying and unreliable, but now the signal doesn’t fall apart anywhere.

 

[Evox787]

Today I’m doing some maintenance on the car—oil change and tire rotation—when I noticed that the inside of one of the tires is cracked. I’m not sure what the technical term for that is, but I’ll share some pictures soon. I’m guessing it’s probably due to the car’s aggressive alignment. Thankfully, I’ll be using the tire warranty to get new tires, so my plan to switch to an all-season set will have to wait a bit.

While I’m at it, I’ll also be changing the brake fluid to Motul RBF 600, installing Hel brake lines, and the PRL clutch line. I’ve got new wheels arriving soon, but that plan is on hold until I see if the tire warranty comes through. Fingers crossed! .

 

[marcusm86]

id get an alignment done at a place you trust too - thats pretty bad... OR just keep getting them replaced lol.. Looks almost like it was rubbing tbh

 

[Evox787]

id get an alignment done at a place you trust too - thats pretty bad... OR just keep getting them replaced lol.. Looks almost like it was rubbing tbh

Thank you! I’ve been thinking about it, and I’ll see what I can find to get a really good alignment. Honestly, I don’t know or trust any shops in my area, and that’s the only thing they won’t let me do at the DIY shop in Fort Hood. Since I’m not changing them at the dealership, I have to pay out of pocket and wait to see if they’ll reimburse me this time. They did reimburse me for one about four or five months ago, so I’m hopeful! But this time are three let’s see. Also my car isn’t lowered or anything probably is the alignment after the steering rack replacement.

 

[marcusm86]

Thank you! I’ve been thinking about it, and I’ll see what I can find to get a really good alignment. Honestly, I don’t know or trust any shops in my area, and that’s the only thing they won’t let me do at the DIY shop in Fort Hood. Since I’m not changing them at the dealership, I have to pay out of pocket and wait to see if they’ll reimburse me this time. They did reimburse me for one about four or five months ago, so I’m hopeful! But this time are three let’s see. Also my car isn’t lowered or anything probably is the alignment after the steering rack replacement.

Oh, for some reason in my head i thought this was a rear wheel.
Replacing the rack without a real alignment would definitely cause that kind of wear. I'd definitely look into that before you do this again - if you don't trust a place, you can always ask them to print the before and after out for you. I may go to a firestone or something to get the lifetime alignment myself (i haven't looked at all of the fine print).

 

[Evox787]

Update on the situation: sadly, the metal line that comes from the caliper to the block in the rubber OEM line was seized. No amount of penetrating fluid could loosen the line. In case this happens to someone else, here are the part numbers: 46335-T60-A00, Pipe G, R brake; and 46336-T60-A00, Pipe G, L brake.

For the clutch, I wasn’t as successful. The same issue occurred, so I opted to order the MAP clutch line. That line goes from the slave to the clutch master cylinder. I had a similar setup on my previous car, my EVO, and it was a popular upgrade to replace the plastic master cylinder and use a similar line. I know it has the delay valve, but it will improve the firmness of the pedal.

 

[Evox787]

Today, I received some great news: my wheel setup is ready and should arrive at my door within the next month or so. The owner of VT Forge Wheels has been incredibly helpful and communicative. A big thanks to @PWR2W8T for showcasing these wheels on his car—seeing how good they look convinced me! I’m really pleased with the results.

 

[Evox787]

Oh, for some reason in my head i thought this was a rear wheel.
Replacing the rack without a real alignment would definitely cause that kind of wear. I'd definitely look into that before you do this again - if you don't trust a place, you can always ask them to print the before and after out for you. I may go to a firestone or something to get the lifetime alignment myself (i haven't looked at all of the fine print).

I will get an alignment done and replace the rear camber/toe arm to allow for more adjustment in the future. I have one that is the only option that works with my wheels without causing damage. It’s a big-brand tire or something like that . I’ll see what they say.

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