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zumbooruk
Senior Member
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2024
- Threads
- 5
- Messages
- 484
- Reaction score
- 405
- Location
- Ventura CA
- Vehicle(s)
- 2025 FL5, 2014 Chevy Suburban (wife), previous 2007 FA5
I got the jailbroken ECU late last evening.
I was done installing the ECU, but after I tightened the negative battery cable, and pulled the ratchet off the bolt, the socket flew off the ratchet and fell into the engine bay...
I hate Murphy
I decided to remove the OEM air intake box, thinking that it would be easier to search/find the socket, since anyway I was going to install the COBB air intake this weekend, might as well do it now...
No luck, ended up jacking the car and removing lots of underbody stuff, the HPT cooling plate, Bad Ann LV front guard, various plastic trim around the wheel well, and it eventually fell off.
since I had the OEM out, I proceeded to install the COBB intake, finished the installation and flushed with the Stage1+SF 91 octane.
I was up till 4am since I had trouble following some of the instructions, and to spend time researching for some missing or unclear instructions.
removal step 6: when I attempted to use Phillips screwdriver, it just cam-out and the head was stripped. I did not have a 5.5mm but I found a 7/32" SAE socket that fit (7/32" = 5.556mm)
removal step 7: the clamp with the broken off head - I was not able to just "wiggle the tube free", but I was able to use a plier to grab the "tail" end of the worm gear and turn it.
Pre-Installation:
step 1:
"Using the two small allen bolts, install the bracket into the side of the airbox with a washer and nut on the back side."
they should specify the length of the bolts to use. for this step, these are the 16mm not the 12mm (which are "smaller" than 16mm), also probably helpful to say "thick rubber washers" instead of just washers, as I was looking for standard metal washers...
step 5:
"On the back side of the MAF housing, use the provided load spreader to line up with the three lower bolt holes (with the hole for the MAF sensor at the top) and screw in the three provided m6x12mm allen bolts to hold the housing into the airbox."
However there was also a gasket in the exact same shape of the load spreader in the kit, but the gasket is not mentioned in the instructions... It was not clear if I should stick the gasket to the spreader, or maybe stick the flange on the MAF tube which would seal it from the inside. eventually I figured that the gasket is not for sealing, but for protecting the carbon fiber, and applied it to the metal load spreader.
step 9:
"Grab the MAF harness you removed the hard plastic shell from earlier."
I somehow skipped this earlier step, and searching the installation instructions for MAF harness didn't find any earlier mention. I eventually found the instruction I missed in the "removal" section. and was able to follow step 9
Installation step 3: had no mention of the stock T30 torx or the orange gasket from the Honda original part. (which were removed in removal step 5) I had to guess that I should be reusing these stock parts for this step.
installation step 7: "tighten down all the bolts and hose clamps" but no mention as to how much to tighten... no torque specs, not even "hand tight plus quarter turn"...
I am very good at snapping bolts. I tighten them very gently and slowly but then I usually hear SNAP
Bolt extractors used to be a frequently used tool till I got a small 1/4" torque wrench.
it would be very helpful if COBB provided some guidance as to how much to "tighten down"
instructions did not mention the seal that goes on the top of the airbox. but it was fairly obvious how to install it.
Loctite was not mentioned at all in the instructions. I eventually figured which bolts I was supposed to apply the lotite to (the three 12mm bolts holding the load spreader, and the two 16mm bolts holding the bracket), and then had to remove them one by one. luckily all were accessible without uninstalling anything else.
one of the large hose clamps was defective, the worm gear was too high and did not engage the slots in the strap. I had to squeeze the worm gear housing using a vise to make the worm gear engage the slots.
In general I do not like worm gear clamps. I've mangled so many of them when I attempt to get them tight. with these I was very careful not to over tighten, but I wish COBB would have included "better" hose clamps, such as the ones Honda uses.
The CARB sticker was not provided, COBB will be sending one.
I took the car for a short gentle test drive this morning to test that I did not mess up. no issues. started and ran well.
I drove about 20 miles on the freeway tonight. acceleration felt faster. overall felt more power/torque.
but recall that I drive like an ape, and I am not intune with the car...
the COBB intake makes the turbo bypass valve whoosh sound louder, which I think is fun.
I plan on getting a custom tune from Brian @JST Performance soon, but will post more about the OTS COBB map as I drive and notice any changes/improvements
Over all I am very happy so far with both the COBB intake and the AccessPort.
I was done installing the ECU, but after I tightened the negative battery cable, and pulled the ratchet off the bolt, the socket flew off the ratchet and fell into the engine bay...
I hate Murphy
I decided to remove the OEM air intake box, thinking that it would be easier to search/find the socket, since anyway I was going to install the COBB air intake this weekend, might as well do it now...
No luck, ended up jacking the car and removing lots of underbody stuff, the HPT cooling plate, Bad Ann LV front guard, various plastic trim around the wheel well, and it eventually fell off.
since I had the OEM out, I proceeded to install the COBB intake, finished the installation and flushed with the Stage1+SF 91 octane.
I was up till 4am since I had trouble following some of the instructions, and to spend time researching for some missing or unclear instructions.
removal step 6: when I attempted to use Phillips screwdriver, it just cam-out and the head was stripped. I did not have a 5.5mm but I found a 7/32" SAE socket that fit (7/32" = 5.556mm)
removal step 7: the clamp with the broken off head - I was not able to just "wiggle the tube free", but I was able to use a plier to grab the "tail" end of the worm gear and turn it.
Pre-Installation:
step 1:
"Using the two small allen bolts, install the bracket into the side of the airbox with a washer and nut on the back side."
they should specify the length of the bolts to use. for this step, these are the 16mm not the 12mm (which are "smaller" than 16mm), also probably helpful to say "thick rubber washers" instead of just washers, as I was looking for standard metal washers...
step 5:
"On the back side of the MAF housing, use the provided load spreader to line up with the three lower bolt holes (with the hole for the MAF sensor at the top) and screw in the three provided m6x12mm allen bolts to hold the housing into the airbox."
However there was also a gasket in the exact same shape of the load spreader in the kit, but the gasket is not mentioned in the instructions... It was not clear if I should stick the gasket to the spreader, or maybe stick the flange on the MAF tube which would seal it from the inside. eventually I figured that the gasket is not for sealing, but for protecting the carbon fiber, and applied it to the metal load spreader.
step 9:
"Grab the MAF harness you removed the hard plastic shell from earlier."
I somehow skipped this earlier step, and searching the installation instructions for MAF harness didn't find any earlier mention. I eventually found the instruction I missed in the "removal" section. and was able to follow step 9
Installation step 3: had no mention of the stock T30 torx or the orange gasket from the Honda original part. (which were removed in removal step 5) I had to guess that I should be reusing these stock parts for this step.
installation step 7: "tighten down all the bolts and hose clamps" but no mention as to how much to tighten... no torque specs, not even "hand tight plus quarter turn"...
I am very good at snapping bolts. I tighten them very gently and slowly but then I usually hear SNAP
Bolt extractors used to be a frequently used tool till I got a small 1/4" torque wrench.
it would be very helpful if COBB provided some guidance as to how much to "tighten down"
instructions did not mention the seal that goes on the top of the airbox. but it was fairly obvious how to install it.
Loctite was not mentioned at all in the instructions. I eventually figured which bolts I was supposed to apply the lotite to (the three 12mm bolts holding the load spreader, and the two 16mm bolts holding the bracket), and then had to remove them one by one. luckily all were accessible without uninstalling anything else.
one of the large hose clamps was defective, the worm gear was too high and did not engage the slots in the strap. I had to squeeze the worm gear housing using a vise to make the worm gear engage the slots.
In general I do not like worm gear clamps. I've mangled so many of them when I attempt to get them tight. with these I was very careful not to over tighten, but I wish COBB would have included "better" hose clamps, such as the ones Honda uses.
The CARB sticker was not provided, COBB will be sending one.
I took the car for a short gentle test drive this morning to test that I did not mess up. no issues. started and ran well.
I drove about 20 miles on the freeway tonight. acceleration felt faster. overall felt more power/torque.
but recall that I drive like an ape, and I am not intune with the car...
the COBB intake makes the turbo bypass valve whoosh sound louder, which I think is fun.
I plan on getting a custom tune from Brian @JST Performance soon, but will post more about the OTS COBB map as I drive and notice any changes/improvements
Over all I am very happy so far with both the COBB intake and the AccessPort.
Last edited:
driv300mph
Senior Member
- First Name
- Troy
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2018
- Threads
- 2
- Messages
- 114
- Reaction score
- 17
- Location
- Little Elm, TX
- Vehicle(s)
- 2024 Sonic Grey
I take your Acuity "extended" shifter rod and raise it by 3 
OK I'll admit this was just for fun. I went back to my standard height right after
OK I'll admit this was just for fun. I went back to my standard height right after
Darin
Member
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2025
- Threads
- 0
- Messages
- 17
- Reaction score
- 28
- Location
- Pennsylvania
- Vehicle(s)
- 2025 Civic Type R
Don't mind the dusty engine bay. Eventuri intake and inlet pipe + WOT hood struts installed.
Agen2integra
Senior Member
I just received my new PRL HVI today from @Two Step Performance and a new DE5 ECU from acurapartsnow.com that I’ll use to clone my existing ECU. Will be looking to send my ECU to a tuner to jailbreak and clone, keeping my car stockish for now until after I get wheels and suspension upgrades.
SpoolinFK8
Senior Member
She’s coming along.
Mrjustin81
Senior Member
Who did u go thru to do the T51R mod?
MrBBQ
Senior Member
Overland Designs Alcantara Shift Boot, Acuity Titanium Shift Collar, Skunk2 440g Shift Knob. Love the shape and color of the knob. Initially wasn't sure about the added weight, but I like it. Shifter feels smoother.
SpoolinFK8
Senior Member
I got mine done with a friend from down south, he also required me to remove the turbo housing and send it to him. Not a fun process by any means.
Here are a few more options “Daddy Turbo would probably be the go to people for oem, style turbo housing mods, many if not all require you to send them just the turbo cold side housing. If not you’ll have to inquire about sending in your entire turbo and they charge to disassemble and reassemble the turbo.
The Boost Lab
AGP Turbo
Daddy Turbos
Last edited:
Agen2integra
Senior Member
Just got my vanity plate in the mail today! Keeping it simple and just repping my R number.
Also, got a sweet deal on some slipstreams. After much debate, I decided that I would go the TE37 route and in addition could still get my “Spoon” look with these. Placing my order for some bronze 30th anniversary god specs soon.
Since this is just my weekend car, I was thinking I would put some RE-71RZ 275/35/18 on the rota wheels until the TE37s arrive (September - December). Would it be unwise to use them for regular driving? I’d like to get to the track once a month if possible.
Also, got a sweet deal on some slipstreams. After much debate, I decided that I would go the TE37 route and in addition could still get my “Spoon” look with these. Placing my order for some bronze 30th anniversary god specs soon.
Since this is just my weekend car, I was thinking I would put some RE-71RZ 275/35/18 on the rota wheels until the TE37s arrive (September - December). Would it be unwise to use them for regular driving? I’d like to get to the track once a month if possible.
Wogboy
Member
- First Name
- Howard Ino
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2025
- Threads
- 1
- Messages
- 23
- Reaction score
- 52
- Location
- Sydney, 'Straya
- Vehicle(s)
- 2023 FL5 Type R
installed these bad boys in
love the 1970s Cadi horn sound
love the 1970s Cadi horn sound
artsyfartsyFL5
Senior Member
- First Name
- Ant
- Joined
- May 27, 2025
- Threads
- 2
- Messages
- 161
- Reaction score
- 140
- Location
- PA
- Website
- www.instagram.com
- Vehicle(s)
- 2025 CW FL5
PA gang! If you're close to Wayne, Mainline Cars and Coffee opens up on April 12th.Just got my vanity plate in the mail today! Keeping it simple and just repping my R number.
Also, got a sweet deal on some slipstreams. After much debate, I decided that I would go the TE37 route and in addition could still get my “Spoon” look with these. Placing my order for some bronze 30th anniversary god specs soon.
Since this is just my weekend car, I was thinking I would put some RE-71RZ 275/35/18 on the rota wheels until the TE37s arrive (September - December). Would it be unwise to use them for regular driving? I’d like to get to the track once a month if possible.
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